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Hi, I’m the “gentleman” (Rich may be a little too generous ?) that is the original owner of the ‘73 Z of this thread. I’m happy I managed to hang on to my Z this long and yet ashamed I have let it sit so long. I bought it new from Gubrud Valley Datsun in Mt Vernon Washington shortly after returning from an 11 month deployment with my US Navy A6 Intruder squadron aboard the USS Kitty Hawk. ( which was a great way for a young ensign to save his pay to buy a Z!). I’ll post more info about the history of this car when I get back home after the 4th.

Your work is looking really good. It will all pay off when finished. I was at a vintage race and there was a restoration shop there. In his tent was a Mustang, a Camero, a Chevelle and a Dodge Charger I think it was, displayed. I asked him how the replacement panels they use are for fitment. He said not very good. They have to cut, weld, etc just to get all the gaps correct. So the Imports are not alone in this issue. Another thing is the car itself. That rocker may just fit fairly good on another 240Z. A good reason restoration shop work is so expensive. Just think what it would cost if you had to pay a shop to do all that you have done so far.

It's SWOMBO's fault... She decided she needed a fun car for herself and is taking up the other garage bay. I used to have full run of the garage, but not anymore. There are two bays and her stupid Boxster taking up half of it. LOL.

Installed 4 post lift to get garage ready for my next Z project

And another option, if you are a little crazy. Remember that (probably rusty) feed through assembly to pass through the firewall? You could do something like this... Make up a template based on the original and get yourself some stainless sheet and stainless tubing: Form the stainless sheet like the original: Build yourself a cheap-o bead roller to use on the lathe and use it to but the beads on the ends of the stainless tubing: Braze the tubes into the bracket: Clean it up. I really like this shot with the rusty crusty original in the background: And once you've gone through all that, you can use two simple generic 90 degree bend hoses on the interior. And since it's all stainless, it should last pretty much forever:

How do you know? I can't see his legs?

I'm not seeing much ineptitude in those pics, the dogleg patch is perfect.

@Villeman All solved! 1. Rear lights not working: Ground points (behind licences plate light and above fuel tank) were missing 2. Turn signal indicator dash bulbs were reversed ? Took me a while, but it was an easy fix ?

The car is actually an early 1973 with a build date of 10/72. The SN is 125678. Also, I think @jayhawk mentioned that he drilled the holes in the firewall for the AC so I am wondering if it is more an aftermarket AC and not a dealer installed AC. Perhaps he can comment after vacation. For this restoration, we will be removing the AC. That makes things a little bit easier. I was not aware of the difference in the flat tops from '73 to '74. I will have to look into that when I start re-assembly. I will definitely be consulting you and @Zup when I move to the clean and restore phase. Thanks!

If you remove the EGR actuator at the end of the system, then all the rest of the stuff in between becomes teats on a boar. The ONLY thing the TVV and BPT does is modulate the vacuum to the EGR actuator. So if there isn't any EGR actuator, then there's no need to modulate the vacuum to it and both the TVV and BPT devices become useless. You don't have to remove them, but there's no reason not to. Just plug the vacuum source on the throttle body, and if you remove the TVV, you'll have to plug the coolant hole where it used to be. Or you could leave the TVV in place just to keep the coolant from running out, but don't connect any vacuum lines to it. Now, about the heating plate under the AAR... It also serves to heat the AAR itself, so it does serve a second function other than the EGR. But my PO had removed my heating plate, and I never really noticed any problems. Being in a cooler climate, you might find that your AAR will open up some and raise your idle even when you don't want it to do so, but where I am I did not have that problem.

Nice six-pack. The best flat top pair to put back on the car might not be the originals. There were a number of revisions of the flat tops between 73 and 74, and if you have different versions, I would absolutely use the later design. And since a lot of them were upgraded at the dealers in those years due to customer complaints I would contend that the later design should still be considered "stock" even on an early 73 car. Changes described in the 73/74 carb modifications documents and TSBs. (Ref TS73-38 and TS73-81) So I'm no carb expert or stock car show judge, but I would not ding a 73 in a stock class even if it had the later version of the flat tops on it. YMMV

You brought her.

japan classic sunday 2018

First off , might need to see what you have . Compression test , look under the valve cover , sniff the oil- if there’s any in there. Get a cheap borescope and look at the pistons . Maybe even pull the oil pan . It could have a blown HG for all you know. As far as running that combo NA- it would be doggie at best and discouraging on power at most. Yes you could use it, but a smaller chamber head would make it much better. Yes more work . Or find a cheap NA motor that’s already running and drop it in there. There’s folks v8 swapping these all the time and selling good running motors for 500$

Pretty sure I found a shot of the tabco quarters with the fold. They tie in to the jam like factory which is good. Only pain will be the long welds.... Body work practice is in order. Patience and cool each tack I guess! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I'm sending Blue's intake with the block-off completed. It has a plug in the bottom and a plate on the top.

It's a light touch you do for your women to entice excitement, "stroke her"! Oh wait, that's the other way around. :)

BTW, on a semi related note... This is what I was working on today. Maiden voyage after paint up the street and back. Runs great. Haven't really opened it up yet, but so far, I'm very happy with the results!

I thought it never got cold in Alabama ...