Leaderboard

Where are the best places to look for really nice Z’s. UPDATE: Just purchased #24871, a 71 in orange. Very excited to get it delivered. Coming from Oregon. After 2 years of searching, hope to have found a partner for my LFA Once delivered will post pics and driving impressions. It has been 40 years since I drove my last 240Z. Should be an interesting experience to say the least.

There's a ton of opinions out there. Sometimes the methods used are really just making up for failings in other areas. Proper fitment is the key for dampers, which the various instructions out there go in to detail about. Even if thread locker is used, it too has to be used properly. Loctite on oily threads isn't worth much. So, it's not just a more is better scenario. It's the details. Red Loctite on a sloppy fit will probably fail also. Some of these guys go "full red" Loctite, some don't even use it. Why not just tack it on with a MIG? One surface that's not mentioned much is the flat mating surfaces, where the clamping actually happens. Not the bore. Those surfaces need to be clean and flat and parallel so that no distortions are induced by the bolt. It's a simple looking part with lots of complexity. https://sdparts.com/attachment/306380-Installation Instructions http://harmonicdampers.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJ_DamperSteelInstallPress.pdf http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid

Thanks for the thread referral , didn’t think that Rock auto would have it, but they did. So no longer need this guys!

It's a pile of crap, sun burnt from one end the the other. Luckily the hood was down and what's left of the motor, pretty much just the short block, is rebuildable. All the rubber and plastic is ruined and the sunroof is missing. Along with all the other glass. If I do this I'll get a better look but I don't think anything's there, sorry.

Ideally the car would be stripped to the shell and you would be in a shop with a proper frame jig that would prevent any movement of the other components as you cut out that major support. Since you are working on your driveway you'll want to spread that load out equally to many support points so that the dimensions of the uni body don't change. Screw jacks are good for this kind of job, you could also use off cuts from building lumber with wedges. Is the engine still in the car? You will have to be careful to support all the weight of the engine, the body could twist easily once that rail is cut out, maybe use an engine hoist/cherry picker to take the weight of the engine from above. Edit- gotham22, I just went through all of your photos again and your car really is on the balancing point between parting it out and major surgery. It can be saved but it will be extensive. My advice if you want to go ahead is strip this car down to the shell, not only so you can find all the rust that hasn't been discovered yet but also to take the weight off the frame. No half measures.

@Wolnomularz Here's a link to a set of rear control bushings if you need them as well----new and genuine Nissan replacements https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-REAR-CONTROL-ARM-TRANSVERSE-LINK-BUSHING-KIT-OEM/182821241949?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item2a90fec45d:g:4loAAOSwCmNZ3PTe&vxp=mtr

With the 3 pin, you have to run an extra ground wire. I used these in my 260Z, https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM. You can adjust the flash rate, too.

Jeff, the 1st thing you need to do with the pistons is check piston to cylinder clearance and verify that its in tolerance, requires no more then a feeler gauge set, insert the ring less piston up side down into the bore and see which feeler gauge fits (90% to the crank) in the void, compare reading to the FSM. if any are under you can get them knurled and the clearance will reduce. this is very important to eliminate piston slap. As the mirrors go, I would use a piece of a wood dowel (a broom handle perhaps?), slightly undercut to fill the hole, finish with short strand fiberglass filler, sand to perfection.

Pulled Factory AC system from an early 77. Tweaked my buddy's 260z round tops. Also found the oil pressure sensor to be leaking and replaced @grannyknot pulled the full unmolested intake with all of the top side stuff from the 77 280z. Car came from Arizona.

Got my rebuild head back from machine shop so I am starting to reassemble. Then out to put back on these 6 open holes. Head photo soon.

$200 plus $100 shipping. 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

Christmas in July ? Drove down to the border this morning to p/u my RockAuto order.

Finally added an MSA air dam to the front. It's amazing how much of a difference this makes in the car's appearance. The fit is "OK", but I expected it to be a little wonky since this car is so old. It works well enough. I don't think I will paint it. Gonna get the car painted by the end of winter, so I'll probably just leave it for now out of laziness haha

He manipulates the reviews. Like our POTUS.

Like John said-definitely not plug and play. Here some pics of the ones I did on a 73 240. Notice a new untouched pan next to a worked to fit-pan. The pans do not follow the tunnel at all, you have to beat them into submission. I spent probably 40 hours doing this car-because I'm not a bodyman, plus if your rust gets into the foot boards the panels don't cover this. Also, the outboard edge radius is too deep which can put your floor at an angle if you don't catch it. Of course I have ordered panels for a 69 Porsche 911 that weren't any better-welcome to the world of aftermarket!

They always get you on taxes and that I don't mind so much, it's FEDEX that I can't stand that's why I drove down to the border this time. All that stuff was about $690 USD, with Fedex taking it across the border and delivering it in 9 separate boxes I would have been looking at another $700.