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I must be getting old or just crotchety, but the more and more I watch fantomworks the less I like them. Maybe it’s just the TV side and how they try to spin it and not their Work. It always seems like everything is so hard to do or it’s going to take forever. As a customer I just want to hear, sure we can do that and this is what it’s going to cost. Maybe they are more budget oriented I don’t know. I really like the work and show up in Canada Restoration Garage , the Guild. To me they do superior work.

For the record my 72 240z has never had vapour lock issues, driving in 40degree (celsius) + Australian weather along the highway in summer. I was dying because of no air con, but the car was fine. My 72 240z at the time still was running twin SU's with factory airbox, heat shield, return fuel line (with no insulation) etc.. I also didn't have an undertray on the car. Factory style radiator (pretty sure re-cored to 3 core from factory 2 core). The car did however have a later style fluted/vented factory bonnet (75+), so that may have helped.

managed to have a productive long weekend in spite of the temptations (beer & brats, etc.) turned back the z technology clock a little: ripped out the efi and associated spaghetti/plumbing and installed the su's. the worst part of the whole process was installing the choke lever... i picked up one of those tunnel-mount plates in order to avoid breaking the underside of the console (the choke lever set came with the telltale chunk of broken plastic mounting post still attached to the mounting screw) and it was a bit of a pain to set the layout on the tunnel so the choke lever would line up in the console slot. every time i have to do work on the interior (especially under the dash) i wish to god i had a chevy van instead... contortions upside down, holding a flashlight in my teeth, having my glasses fog and dropping the fastener on my forehead for the 5th time... but eventually it worked out just fine. i had purchased a 240z choke cable fire wall grommet but it turns out i didn't need it. what i had assumed was a metal blank-off plate next to the throttle linkage turned out to be a dual-opening rubber blank. so i just drilled two holes in it and the choke cables go through with a nice airtight seal. getting the manifold off was cake thanks to the multiple head swaps i've done and i went ahead and pulled the afm, charcoal cannister and associated mounting brackets as well. i left the wire harness in for now, coiled up and tucked out of the way by the windshield washer bottle. i'm using the stock fuel filter & lines for now, but will revise when some parts come in. next was swapping out the efi fuel pump with a cute little airtex unit. mounted it up near the moustache bar and looped the fuel line over to the existing hardline. i left all the efi wiring/relays/etc. in place, so it all works exactly as previous - just a lot less pressure. the airtex pump is so quiet, i had to put my hand on it to make sure it was working - nice. i then got the carbs mounted up and checked the float levels. interesting side note: i had done this previously in my basement using water, with the fuel pump wired to a power supply and a juice glass as a see-thru bowl. even though i had both set dead-on to 23mm they were quite off when i put them on the car. not sure if it has to do with the density difference between gas and water, the tilt on the car or what, but i eventually got them both to 23mm (again). i used some clear vinyl tubing as a temporary sight glass which was quite helpful these first times around. she fired up quickly and after warm-up i synched them at idle and high-speed w/the old unisync that i've had for decades in my tool box. worked a treat. took her out for a test drive and was sorely disappointed... no power, burbled and popped horribly on decel, wouldn't rev, no fun. it sounded like the mixtures were way out of sync, and i couldn't get them to match up. decided to do another float level adjust, but this time i figured i'd go for the fuel in the jet nozzle rather than the height of the float bowl. read on one of the blogs out there that the recommended fuel level corresponds exactly to 1cm (10mm) below the bridge, which you can check by turning down the jet adjusters 10 full turns (1mm each) and fuel should be right at the top of the jet nozzle. turns out that i needed the rear bowl to be set about 5mm higher (18mm down, vs. the 23) in order for the nozzle to get its fuel at 1cm down. not sure why... she ran much better and is now quite driveable, although still not perfect - i ran out of daylight so will need to do more testing/tuning. next step will be setting up the dual-sensor afm so i can get a better idea of what's going on vs. just reading plugs. stay tuned... carbs on - ready to run temp sight glass setup

Hello list... it's been a few years since I posted here last (10 or so!) So, first the barnfind is my father's 1970 series 1 240z...Yellow over black leather. HLS30-15369 While not truly a "find" or in a barn (it's in a garage in NJ where it has been sitting since 1980 when he lost his eyesight) She was purchased new by my father from Bob Sharp Motors (yes of BSR fame) on July 11th, 1970. The car was built in Dec. 1970 and delivered on Feb. 18th 1971. Within the first few months, my father had BSR add A/C, put in an exhaust ($140 + $55 install), larger front swaybar, added a rear swaybar, and installed a set of Konis on all 4 corners. My father also installed a set of American Racing wheels (All the take off equipment is still in my father's basement). He stopped driving the car (and driving) in 1980 when he became legally blind. The car has (wait for it) 24,041 original miles on it. Now for the questions: I am planning on having it transported from NJ to my home in Boulder CO, and having Jeff Winter (Rallye/Sport) help with some work to resuscitate her. So the first question is what transport companies do the collective list recommend for an interstate shipment like this? (then once the car is here, I'll need to blow out the shellack from the fuel lines, boil the tank, "replace everything rubber" re-jett the carbs for altitude, ect...) I will be posting followups (and pictures once I get the car out ? TIA! -Jason

I would use the rear suspension. Probably one of the lower control arms to try to minimize the impact on the rear valence. I would be careful if you have to pull very hard or you will tear up the body or the fuel tank.

I just removed that panel below the windshield where the wipers come out. I noticed some kind of foam on the inside edges. Does anyone know what that stuff was for or what I should replace it with? The photo is on my google drive here. First time trying this shareable link on the forum. https://drive.google.com/open?id=13KxGJFvrIMpDghKjs5d3Uya8ajS48ZJR

finally saw it, curious about the frame rail needing "straighting" then the doors will not close. Are they indeed supposed to be flat on the bottom? not the few dents but the slight curvature from the fire wall back to the ends. From what I could tell it did not need much just some fixing of details.

Thanks guys. I took the car out for a spin yesterday after performing the following: 1. pulled the choke to 1/2 the lever in order for the car to crank. 2. Let the car warm for a minute after taking it out from the garage. 3. Drove it gently until the temp needle got near to 1/2 4. Started stepping on the gas to achieve more speed. Results: 1. No backfire either on the intake or exhaust. 2. Cruises nice although i would prefer a faster response when accelarating from 1st gear. How can i accomplish this or is it the nature of the beast? Will pull all 6 plugs out today.

The key I remembered in my research about getting a set of Mikunis or any triples is they need to be tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Have the valves adjusted, make sure the timing is good and, if at all possible, tune them on a dyno. I found someone who did all of that and my Mikunis run like champs. A well tuned set of SUs will perform great on the street and will do 90% of what a set of triples will do performance wise, it's that last 10% when you're really laying in to the throttle that triples perform. On the other hand, you could probably sell the triples and buy a set of ZTherapy SUs which would be easier to tune and give great daily driving/autocross performance. Make sure you get a good heat shield for either setup, my SUs vapor locked more easily than the triples do but it was always something I was paying attention to, especially in the summer.

Mine cleaned up real nice with CLR, worked great afterwards too. Full sweep and resistance checks out on the ohmmeter

I soaked a corroded stuck valve in CLR. After soaking it for 48 hours the valve moved easily and sealed.

An AC would make the problem worse. I was wondering what year they added those vents to the hood. A vented hood would certainly help the situation where you park it after driving and it sits there getting a hot soak.

Good thread to read.

Odd, I was missing the passenger side flapper door on mine when I got it and wound up buying a whole heater box just to replace it. I do have that side panel plus a few other pieces, but not the passenger side door (I used that), if you can't find one there. Since our countries are at "war", I don't know how hard it would be to ship there. ?

I just installed some noise absorbant rubber material on the underside of our kitchen sink. If noise or rattle is the concern would that be something good to use. This sink was from Ikea.

It is a high density foam pads. Standard on some of the early car possibly others. I have seen them several cars. 72 body with 71 interior, Eibach, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Zstory, SUs, BRE Libre wheels and front spoiler.

My advice is: remove the foam, deal with the rust underneath, and DON'T replace it... I seriously doubt you'll notice a difference (except the lack of a place for moisture to collect). We've seen numerous cowls from clean - > cancerous rust from the underside up through the top. IMO that was a lame stop-gap idea that served no real purpose other than ruining a lot of perfectly good cowls. If you feel the need to dampen that particular part of the cowl I think you'd be better off using a truck bed "liner" type material that you can brush or roller apply.

It's a thin foam. I believe it is to prevent rattles. Also it is always better to upload the pictures to the site. Mike will preserve them for posterity. We have had more than one thread go bad when the hosting site links were broken

Also in Austin TX and experienced a similar problem up until last month. I had been filling up the gas tank every time I got gas at a Shell station. . Driving only 25-30 miles a week left a lot of gas in the tank. It would take me 3 months to fill up again. With the ethanol blend we have these days I decided to run the tank down to only a couple of gallons. Instead of filling up I only put 3-4 gallons in with some ethanol additive and changed to Phillips 66 so the gas didn't get old and break down. Haven't had the problem since and ran the car yesterday in the heat. I still have the mechanical fuel pump, with AC but added a radiator shroud. So far so good ?

Mechanical: - Valves adjusted - Cam looks fine - Made new gaskets for oil bar Electrical: - Tail lights now work - Key now starts car - New alternator now charges battery On Deck: - about to practice Mig welding with C25 for first time.... holes in floor be warned!

Maybe, but would one of these be worth the effort at $100k value? In 10 years that's what these early cars will probably bring. Now admittedly these will take a lot of work, but I have seen people redo worse It just takes time and money