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I took the plunge on both front and rear bumpers from these guys. Here is my experience. 1) order placed June 27 2) order shipped July 3 and tracking info received 3) order received in Ontario Canada July 6. I did have to pay $27 duties. The bumpers were packaged well with bubble wrap and some sort of cloth material. I was very happy with the product. Overall the buying experience was good. Responses to all emails were prompt and I was amazed at the turnaround and quick delivery. Installation: It took about 1 hour to remove and replace the front bumper and the fitment was excellent. However, the rear was another story. I had to chase the threads as mentioned by jfa.series1 which is not a big deal. The first attempt at installing did not go well. The bumper was flush to the body at the rear and the ends were flared out over an inch. After 5 or 6 hours of massaging the brackets and installing/removing etc. I finally got a decent gap all the way around. I determined that the initial install was putting too much pressure on the side brackets causing the flare out. Spacing the bumper at least 3/8” off the back using washers was required to get an acceptable fitment at the ends. Here are some pics

Holy crap! Look what my son (Five and Dime) had painted for me for my birthday!!! Awesome painting of my green 72. Thanks Brandon....you’re the best.

Well the car is up for sale locally on kijiji for the last couple of months, and I've been steadily "improving" it while I wait for a buyer. I've fixed the major holes around the rear wheels wells. The intent here is to plug the holes to the interior to make the car safe to drive and get it to pass inspection. I want to get the car running, safe, registered and insured so the new owner can take it on and make it what they want. There is enough "missing" from the rear arches that they become candidates for a set of ZG flares just to cover the functional repairs. I've replaced the door and hatch weatherstripping with used pieces I have to seal out exhaust. Couple of small rust holes in the floor boards to patch Hopefully with it fully functional, more buyers are going to be interested. The screws attach the panels, then the heads are ground off and spot welded. This leaves the SS screw holding it together and spot welded tight. Wish I'd taken pics of the at strip that fits the curve of the wheel well. Made with a shrinker/stretcher. Screw it to the outer surface, then slight and hammer it to fit th inner curvature. Maybe you can see the four holes in the wheel well inner where a long-gone roll bar was located with 5/16 bolts. Now they have 4 carriage bolts/washers in them, sealed in with undercoating. Note the fancy slightly used tires. 185/75-15. These are fully safe and functional and replace the ancient winter knobbies the car came with. All with minimal cost. $160 for four and 15/each to install/balance. Props for gooddealtire.ca in Calgary.

Well the car is sold. Well SOME of the car is sold. I have sold the shell and basic suspension to a new friend in Edmonton. The other goodies will grace other cars in the region, or maybe 3798 will stay closer to home a wear a few goodies until that original patina. Or how do I get that stroker into a certain 510 I know? Hmmmm

Is a frog waterproof? The town I live in as well as every town I've visited on four continents has those kind of areas. However, like any place, just be aware of your surroundings, stay out of dark alleys, don't run up a bar tab, keep your wallet in your front pocket, and enjoy the tourist attractions. When I traveled in Japan a few times, the people were pleasant and helpful in big cities and smaller, off the beaten path, areas. Plenty to see, take lots of money. Dennis

I twisted the little flat bar linkage piece that pulls the nozzle down to ensure the linkage mating surfaces were exactly parallel to the attachment points. That allowed the nozzle to return from the choke position easily. Carb. was removed at the time. I doubt that it can be done with the carb installed.

A Canadian cure for fuel tank flatulence??? Seriously (yeah, sure), I vote for the safety aspect. I've never seen this in US spec cars, possibly a Canadian rule.

McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Starbucks, Universal Studios Japan and Tokyo Disneyland. Apart from that, you're pretty safe.

Woohoo. Thanks alot man that's awesome. Pm me the mail cost with your PayPal and I'll sort ya out! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Here you go! I’ll get them in the mail to you ASAP. They are a little pitted from age, but solid. Sandblasted and powder coated.

If everything is working properly, the pistons should be hard to lift with a finger, but should fall easily. So the one that lifts easy has a problem. Something is wrong with the check valve jiggly bits on the end of the screwed-in stalk. Also, I'm not sure what you meant when you said that the rear carb has a return spring... If you are talking about the spring pushing the piston down, then they should BOTH have springs under the dome. Other thoughts? I don't like the looks of at least one of your needles. It looks like it's installed too deep into the piston, and it also looks chewed up and worn some at the hilt where it has probably been rubbing against the nozzle. The nozzle looks to be worn oval as well due to that contact. Dome/Piston/Needle/Nozzle alignment is very important, and the three screw round tops can be a problem if someone has cut off or dug out the dome alignment nubs (as has been done to yours). @Bruce Palmer Can describe the process necessary to align the domes (and hence the needles to the nozzles), but remember that each and every time you loosen or remove a dome, you must go through the same alignment procedure again. Here's your pic with the needle that looks worn: And here's your pic with what looks like a non-round nozzle hole that has been worn by contact with the needle:

I got the engine pulled today and a chance to pressure wash some of the crud out of the engine bay, lots of work to go. I found a place that will yellow zinc plate everything I can fit into a 5 gal bucket for a $100 so after I put everything from the 280z in there I started to go through my collection of spare Datsun bolts, then all stray metric hardware. I even went through an old box of engine bay work lights that I have p/u over the years at swap meets. Tomorrow is our local Zfest so gave the 240 a wash, clay bar and wax.

Stop starting new threads. Stick with the first one you started.

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program. They have the colors for the early Zs. What percentage were painted 918? Anyone's guess as I have never seen any records. What is interesting and fairly well documented is that color combinations were produced in multiple sequences or series of two or three. For instance my two cars (26 and 27) are identical 907 green with butterscotch interiors.