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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/14/2018 in all areas

  1. Stock Stance USA XR-1 coilovers use 175mm long springs and minimum rate they show is 4K. They have listed 3K (168 lb.) springs in 200mm length. If you're interested, talk to Stance USA Customer Service about those springs on your struts and ask if your struts would need to be re-valved to use them. That is important to know. The 3K springs would be just over an inch longer than your current springs IIRC. That means your lower perch would need to drop just over an inch. At your current ride-height you should have plenty of thread to lower the perch on the strut tube. (You could move your 4K springs (or strut) to the rear and use the 3K springs on the front. Stock 280Z spring rates were 103 lb. front and 198 (see below) 128 lb. rear (3K=168 lb. vs. 103 lb. - 4K=224 Lb. vs. 198 128 lb.). Your springs would be softer than they are now, still stiffer than stock. edit: the information sited below may change you opinion about the 4K springs... The 15-step damper adjustment is for damping - it doesn't change the spring rate ("stiffness"), it dampens compression and rebound of the spring.
    2 points
  2. First thing's first, I'm not a suspension expert, and my car doesn't drive, so I have no direct experience with Z suspension. But I've been around here a while, so here's my take. Your springs rates translate to 280lb/in and 224 lb/in. John C on HybridZ has said that anything over 300lb/in is pointless since at that point, the chassis starts flexing, at least a 240Z. Most people who have put together coilovers seem to go with something like 225/250 or 200/225, or something to that effect, not 280, but apparently all the mainstream coilover manufacturers seem to think that this combo of 4k/5k is good, I couldn't tell you why. Shocks can also make a difference. My E30 has stiff suspension (310 front, 570 rear, IIRC), and I started out with Bilstein gas shocks, and recently switched to adjustable Konis. There was a noticeable difference in ride quality, and I haven't even messed with the settings on the Konis yet to see if I could improve it further. I have no idea what quality shocks you have there, but that could have something to do with it. I'm not sure if BC coilovers are really all that good, lots of people use them and like them, but I'm skeptical of their quality. Lastly, it could just be you. I don't know what you were expecting it to ride like, but obviously it isn't going to ride anything like it did stock. You may have been expecting something that just wasn't realistic.
    2 points
  3. 1 point
  4. I would replace the fuel filter up front, behind the radiator on the passenger's side. There about $10 or so from a chain store.
    1 point
  5. @siteunseen Thank you, I've read some threads in the meantime. I think it could be deleted, however, during warm-up there would be no coolant flow through the head (thermostat closed). So the purpose of this line is, beside carb heating, to allow a little flow back to water pump. The only question is if the flow needs to be cut as soon as the engine is hot. I will keep it like this for a while and watch ?
    1 point
  6. Welcome to the forum, YES, the car is worth restoring, sounds like it is in very good shape anyway. The 2+2 models never had as strong a following as the 2 seaters but the owners of 2+2's are fiercely loyal and love their cars and rightly so. Worth? What the market will bear. Someone here will give you a better idea of the worth but you will have to post some pics, there are a few guys here that will get your car diagnosed in no time. If you do decide to sell at least get her running well and enjoy it for a few long drives, you will realize pretty quickly why your Grandad loved it so.
    1 point


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