Leaderboard

Here are some pictures taken in the 70's of my uncles 240z this is why i have a Z myself now tkaen in Northridge calif I would vist each summer- not my uncle by family he and my aunt divorced in the early 80's and I dont know the whereabouts of the Z

Reproduction headlight covers are being made. I’m hoping to have them for sale in 2 months, depending on how much adjustments will need to be made. It will be $750 in the USA.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to imply that it was a bad or stupid idea. I was just musing that the simpler the better here. You're right that staking doesn't have to retain a lot of force. In fact the only thing it has to do is resist the spring force of the springs assembled onto the plunger itself. I think if you restaked it and then grabbed the tip in a bench vise and gave the other end a tug as hard as you could pull it (in addition to the spring force), that would be a four or five times normal operation safety margin test. Maybe I'll work on that "fixture" today. Rumor has it that there's a valve seal on it's way to me. I should really have that tip re-plated first though before I put it back together. The rest of my valve pieces are in really good shape, but that tip got a little rusty.

A lot of responses. There are a lot of parallels between the driving characteristics described by FastWoman and the car I am working on. I am going to add a potentiometer and tinker accordingly to see if it makes an impact. Awesome. After reading about the Steinhart-Hart equation, I calculated the constants and now have a chart of my own to play with. Given the symptoms of the engine, lean. I have never been an expert spark plug whisperer but I will add 'Pictures of tips' to my to-do list. Resistances were checked through the harness at the ECU and at the sensor. I agree the compression numbers seem high, the engine was cold. I have not run one with a warm block but I can add it to the to-do list. I can't remember how well it ever ran but it definitely was never 100%. Definitely never broke the tires loose, bellow 3500 RPM was unpleasant (flat spots in throttle), above 3500 RPM, the car felt ok. For a while I thought the TPS was a culprit but I tested it both at the ECU and at the component without issue. Plug wires and firing order are correct. The connectors before the dexoit were actually not bad. I ended up cutting the connectors back about 3 inches when I put in the new connectors. I even checked the AFM carbon trace for wear grooves, also spraying the internals with deoxit. I have not changed the AFM connector. Fuse links were removed and replaced with a maxifuse system. In reference to the potentiometer, what power has everyone been running? 1/5W? 1/2W? 1W? adafruit has a 1/5W for $1 I can get. Otherwise I would have to go through digikey for some higher power ones. Revised to-do list: Record/report new fuel pressure numbers Record/report vacuum pressure numbers Take pictures of the spark plug tips Install 1K linear pot and adjust per atlanticZ Turn AFM 6 teeth counterclock wise back to previous spot. Thanks everyone for the help.

As of right now, I’m not offering tint lens. That can be done with film by the owner.

Just throw a sheet over it and let it return to the Earth in peace. It's halfway there already. Dennis

Nice work on the Camry. I think you're ready to give the z a go. I can't wait to see the finished product. Nice job on the diffy cover too!

Namerow thanks for the compliment and yes my uncle had a good eye for cars all the cars you see he owned including the Triumph TR 250K which now is in the Bret Hart collection i belive-- the black bently was traded for the jag xk 120m The dry lakes and Bonneville racing was in the 73/ 74 ect he would have held record for the class but in those days no intercoolers for turbos too much heat caused inconsitant runs at the salt flats if i remember you needed 2 or 3 runs-- very consistant to each other to hold or beat a record at the dry lakes the Z in green with turbo would consitanly run 134 to 145mph but single runs and yea thats me as a-- kid --at least i got to-- ride -sit in and wash the cars one of the factors that made me a car nut

Your uncle was a very cool guy. These days, the high-dollar car afficianados wet their pants over the Bonneville Speed Week experience and the guys that make it happen. Your uncle was there. This is probably the only picture in existence of a Z on the salt flats. Thanks for posting.

one more found

Sorry for the typos one more pic a little backround on the Z he bought it new in 72 from Granada Datsun it was 113 green he then put an air research turbo on it i think it came from AK mille r the car had a full roll cage and he extended the louvers to the edge of the hatch -then when he put the G nose on it he then painteded it brown some of the pictures are at the dry lakes and some are from bonneville the picture with the hood off was taken in the alley on the side of Granada Datsun the service manager at the time was a good friend of his

I buy steel from a local family owned shop. They will cut, brake, drill and shear for reasonable prices

So I have still been picking away at things but not a lot during the nice weather. I have been spending some time with the grandkids and the wife while the sun has been out. I few developments to report though: 1) I have decided to leave the R200 CLSD as is. The 3.70 ring gear is going back on as I do not trust a redrill of the 3.90 ring gear to fit the larger M12 thread versus the M10. Not worth damaging a ring gear if I can live with the 3.70. The CLSD will go back in with fresh paint and seals, then I will rebuild the 3.90 as an open diff for now. That means I have to prep the new R200 diff case and housing for paint. This is not too big a job but... 2) I tried to powder coat the stripped and blasted finned R200 diff cover with chrome powder coat. The blasting and powder coating went on flawless and I had pre-baked the cover to help cleanse the porous cast aluminum. Didn't work... The cover came out of the oven like a bubbly wrinkle coat from all the off-gassing. arrghhh. Now I had to start over, media blasting fresh hardened powder coat off the cover!! Three times the work of a regular painted cover. No pics of the disgusting powder job after baking. 3) Took a few days to help out the son-in -law get a car ready for resale. A 99 Camry with low kilometres but a little bit of body abuse. Needed a new front bumper and some paint detailing. Spent about 8 hours sanding and polishing the clearcoat on his car, then painted his replacement bumper from a jobber in town. I was happy to do this because I wanted to test my paint skills. The results were excellent considering I painted outside on a cool day with no paint booth etc. The clear went down like glass. Raw urethane black bumper was sanded, primed with flex primer in grey, degreased and sanded with 600 grit, sprayed with 3 coats of urethane base coat gold and then three coats of urethane clear. Very happy with the results and this gives me great confidence in spraying the rest of my car when the time comes. 4) Plan going forward is to paint the diff cover with an anodizing silver engine paint and the diff itself in an engine enamel black. I hope to have it reassembled and installed in the next couple of weeks. Hopefully by then, AZC will have the rear brake brackets I need to get the car down on its wheels and I will finally have a rolling chassis again after 3 years of rotisserie!

Dubai, UAE. Shipping might be much. Looks interesting.