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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/10/2018 in all areas

  1. (SOLD )These are a brand new matched set of triple Weber Carburetors 40DCOE, Typ 151 with Cannon intake for a Nissan L6 engine. All linkages and gaskets are included and are brand new. Intake manifold has been Alodined so it has a nice gold color that is also a corrosion inhibitor. Also included: Datsun Spirit gold anodized fuel rail (retail $125) Datsun Spirit Black Triple Weber heat shield (retail $165) Holley 12-804 Fuel Pressure Regulator (1-4psi) ($35 retail) Carter Fuel Pump A Guide to Tuning Weber Carburetors How to Build and Power Tune Weber and Dellorto Carburetors All installation instructions from the original kit. Let me know if you have any questions. Parts are currently located in Detroit, Michigan. Buyer Pays shipping, all original packaging from Redline Motorsports in included. Asking (SOLD) shipping Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
  2. After 6 months is fiddle farting around, I got time to get my new 5 speed in. Got her up in the air first. This below is the new 5 speed from a 280Z, nope not a close ratio, but still has that wonderful 5th for freeway driving. After going to Z con last year, it became very apparent I needed a new gear to make long hauls. Believe it or not, this my old transmission below... It actually looks cleaner than the one going into the car! Up up and away... with help from a good friend, (thanks Tanner) I got this baby in quick. The car wanted to be back together.
  3. 2 points
    True, I guess I’ve been away so long I forgot one of the cardinal rules of posting...
  4. I found a new seal for the steering input shaft for the steering rack. It was the last one shown at Rockauto but should give you a good part number to locate one if needed So I was very fortunate to locate a source for the steering rack bushings. They came from a batch of bushings that had been previously fabbed up for the steering rack application. They looked great but lacked the groove that the stock bushing has. So I took a stab at that I mic'd them to make sure he groove was about the same depth as the original. The bushings are a press fit into the rack housing and then need final ID sizing to accept the rack bar. Once I had them shaped to my satisfaction, they gotten frozen over night Wiped the frost off and tapped them in with a bushing driver and a small hammer. They went in really easy Now it was time to size the ID. They actually got a little tighter after driving them in, so they would always needed sizing post placement. I bought a brake hone the other day. The one I bought will go down to like 3/4" dia so it is perfect for this situation. It took a lot more honing then I thought it would, but after a while I got the clearance right. I also polished the rack rod to smooth some spots where corrosion had started. I hope to paint the housing this coming weekend and get the rack going back together
  5. Mr Irwin makes them for other vendors but you can buy straight from him. Great customer service too. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/
  6. 1 point
    Nice seats. Nice fabrication work too. Does this mean you have a spare set of original seats with heaters?
  7. Hi Zedy....Looks great, but you need to work with those white safety socks! ?
  8. 1 point
    Electric recliner (you can see the control on the side of the seat pan). power was the easy part. Major drama rebuilding the mounting system. Not for the faint of heart.
  9. He, yes, I did just look at that ad! It is 1) a bit of a ways away and 2) a bit more than I want to spend. I guess I should specify what I mean by clean. Really just looking for a complete, good runner with fair interior and a straight body with no rust damage. Paint doesn't have to be perfect. I've got a little bit set aside, but will probably have about 5K to spend in a month or two.
  10. This is the Nissan gasket I put on my N7 head with round ports. I've been happy with it and it's held up just fine for almost 3 year now.
  11. Hey guys, thanks for all of the quick help and suggestions! I actually lucked into finding the issue. I saw online sometimes relays will rattle like that if they're getting a little power but not enough to lock in place. I started checking all of the connections from the battery toward the fuse box and found one spot that looks like it got a little frayed/pinched at some point, fixed that and the buzz went away and power came back to all systems! Thanks again!
  12. Out for a little sunshine and soon a motor.
  13. A lot of progress with the body work removing rusted out sections, dogleg repair, aligning the rear hatch lines and bumper attach points.
  14. It's bearing bronze, not brass. Still not as hard as steel, but you just don't want dust or grit in there mixing with the grease becoming a lapping paste. Who knows... All that steering on the twisty roads in the mountains of SC? Couple years and you'll have no rack left.
  15. Here are a few pics, it was attached just behind and to the left of the fuse box. One of the pics shows what it looks like inside the brass casing (After taking the pic I closed it back up and plugged in and still makes the buzz). Two black wires and a green wire going in.
  16. old thread, but I just ordered a set... Will advise
  17. 1 point
    What's considered an early car, where's the line? Manufactured in '69 or double digits, triple digits? I would consider the first 500 as Carl Beck has previously noted however as time marches on, we see fewer and fewer (and appreciate more and more) of the 1970 and early 1971 model years. We make reference and distinction between the "Series I" and "Series II" builds quite often. I would have to suggest that a "Series I" car is considered an early car. To me, if the car has hatch vents, it's an early car.
  18. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  19. He even made one to work for my 77 280. Been working for several years now.
  20. I think your gear change is what will be the most effective in transforming acceleration in general. Theres a guy on Hybridz that sells an adapter ring to mount a 350z flywheel. The stock ones are Chrome Molly and come in at 16lbs I believe . It’s a 250mm surface so that’s an improvement also. I think it’s Godzilla Raceworks . The flywheel has the correct bolt pattern and the adapter is nothing more than a shim. I believe the 350z flywheels are reasonably priced I run a lightened 240mm flywheel, but not many places do that service anymore
  21. Punch Bowl for gasoline = 1 pissed off wife. ? Another vote for the CLR method that Whee introduced. I've got a tank soaking with about 3 gallons of vinegar right now. A very slow method but very economical and not as harsh as Muratic Acid. Seems to be working but my patience is wearing out.

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