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Check it for elec. continuity first. Whee was the one that told us about soaking sending units in CLR. I've saved a couple of sending units using his tip. The worst one had good continuity but was rusted up solid. Nothing would move. That one took 48 hours in CLR. It came out looking good and worked great.

I should add a disclaimer for some of the sh!t I do -lol

Do you have one? Many people are able to clean them up with CLR

It was a T/Pipe bung, as are most Dyno setups. I don't think that was a big factor, as we also ran a test day on the same dyno with about 10 other cars. Most were EFI, and my curve was far flatter than any other cars. Some of the aftermarket EFI AFR curves were all over the place ... The tunable Vacuum secondary also helped smooth things out. The Vacuum secondary carb was really good in Autocross. Very smooth power delivery. I later built a double pumper with the same specs and parts. That was much more difficult to drive in Autocross, but proved to be slightly faster on Road Course and Hill climbs. In autocross you would just haze the tires if you got into the Secondaries too quick. Hill Climbs with weight transfer to rear tires and Road Races with higher cornering speeds, reduced the tendency to spin the tires on corner exit. So you could jump on the power quicker and harder.

What is this "unmodified car" of which you speak? ?

Can't remember the number of grams off hand but mine were all over the place. I ground the underside to get them all the same weight before sending them to Delta for resurfacing. Luckily they all weighed the same when they came back. Happy with that but they sit in the box still, life reared its ugly head but I'm going to get it put together this winter after I shine up my valves. My Dad told me about shining up the back side of his valves back in the '60s. He also told me, and of course I played dumb, to grind all the casting marks off the runners and smooth them as best I could. That will be much easier today with a Dremel and the flex cable attachment. He used a rod wrapped with rough sandpaper back then he says.

Here's the theory for the differential pressure gauge I have. It's essentially just a piston (which also happens to be a magnet) sliding back and forth in a tube. That magnetic piston is coupled to the gauge needle so there is no process fluids (whatever you are measuring) in the meter movement area. Operates like this: And this is hooked up to the car. Too big to leave in there all the time, but it's fantastic for diagnostic purposes. One side pushes while the other side pulls. The pressure reading would go down if you disconnect the vacuum side because that side isn't pulling:

Seeing how the '72 float adjustment thread went on forever a month or so ago Mr Potholez and I went with private messaging. Much easier to stay focused. I just thought about a solution that @madkaw did with his front ears so they'd match the rears. He drilled the pinholes higher to match the rear lid and as I remember, it worked great for him. Fortunately I had a spare set and run two rear lids on my current SUs, no drilling. It pretty much turned them into the earlier style 4 screw SUs. @hatepotholez

With what I've read on swirl polished valves since starting this, I'll agree. One reason I went this far is to learn what kind of results can be accomplished in a home shop. A business wouldn't normally do it and I wouldn't do this for the normal daily driver, but hey.... It's my son's engine, and I have the time. In the Z's hay-day, this kind of work was for engines that lived at the top end - where that last 0.1% is important - and engines were often torn down after a race. Since the car will live on the street, I think we'll just face them with the factory angle and back cut, and call them done. As you mentioned, de-burring and cleaning up the pockets and tracts will do more for performance. They do look pretty, though and we're still happy with the combustion side. Thanks, Captain.

Thanks bro Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Porsche fan here too! I came across a pic of a 240z and though huh that's a nice Porsche and then found out it was a Datsun... Been loving them ever since, as they are simpler and cheaper. Very nice bronco btw.

Huh. Guess I'll have to try to fit in one before deciding if I really want a 2+2. And good to know it's easy to swap in a manual, that broadens my search quite a bit, once I do start searching! Love your avatar btw

Wow, so many replies! Thanks for all that advice, I'm gonna love this place. Now to answer your posts: But before that! I'm not currently looking to get a car, I just want to familiarize myself, as I want to get a truck beforehand. But thanks for the offers! First checkmark: The best year is the best deal I find without rust. This is why these cars are amazing: there are no trouble years, the worst problem you can have is rust! Epitome of reliability. Second checkmark: No big problems with the L-series or the transmissions. Is four gears enough, if you haven't swapped for the 5-speed? Also, how many miles can you go on the engine and the tranny before needing a rebuild? Third checkmark: Yay, 2+2s exist! I prefer them because it allows more space, possibly short passengers... And I'm a tall guy, I may not even fit! The longer wheelbase allows me to toy with the seat mounts and move them back if necessary. Fourth question mark: I looked around a bit for the 5 lug kits, they seems pretty common. Should not be a problem. Other worth mentioning: Electrical issues, check. I'm starting to think I'd rather have a 280z, because of that, the tranny, and also they didn't make any 2+2 240z... While I can fix the electrical issues and put in a 5-speed, there's no way I'm making a 2-seater into a 2+2. @heyitsrama Thanks for all the tips. What do you mean by upgraded interior for the 260z? @ksechler Rip that California Datsun transmission. I'll heed that advice, thank you. And stunning car. @cbuczesk @w3wilkes Dave Irwin? Who/what is that? A quick search pointed me to a ski racer... lol @Mike Woa! The founder! Thank you! Ebay scams, check. I don't really like them anyway. @Hardway An easy swap from automatic to manual? Didn't know that was possible. Don't you usually need a donor for that, because it's a different steering column? Bottom line: Rust is the enemy! If you see any, there probably is a lot more. Other than that, most trouble I'll have will be simple/easy fixes. Damn I love this car, and I don't have it yet!

[emoji23][emoji6] Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Love that Bronco....

Thanks, finally completely removed bumpers Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Congrats! This will be interesting!

And if you see a car listed for sale on this forum, you will have dozens of solid references and opinions from the members to help you out. Safe bet...

Did you mean RB25?

Bertram, TX I've been through there. My wife is from Fredericksburg. Great area!! Like others have said, you will be money and years ahead to buy the best car you can with the least amount of rust. Always remember with rust, there is at least 100% more rust than what ever you can see!

Love the color! Welcome to the club! m

Very pretty. A real pain to take apart to show people at car shows though....

31908. It's hidden above. Between your post count and map location.

So I really wanted to protect the studs on the booster before I reassembled it. I have both halves of the case finish painted. So I plated them in place. I wired them up and suspended them in the tank This is how the other half turned out Now I'm working on plating the MC push rod. I'm working on removing the pitting from the rod.

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Congratulations. Looks like a nice open road to test it out and see how fast you can get a ticket in it haha. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile