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Have to laugh I guess. I'm getting great excercise shoveling literally tons of wet snow. Snowflake rims?

doesn't

You're absolutely right. I prefer the voltmeter function over the ammeter.

The way I looked at mine was v simple: eliminate every possible electric cause. I changed: the plugs in case one had a crack The dizzy cap and rotor The coil The wires to the coil by running direct from battery (fused of course) temporarily. Spark plug leads. Also Checked and cleaned up engine earth strap Replaced a couple of connectors - see this one that was holding by a single strand you can see coming out of the connector. Did each one at a time until I found the culprit - and I would say there were two issues in the HT leads and a potential other in the low tension connectors. Bear in mind I had rough running and backfire at revs and when on power and missing visible on timing light. So given my experience I would say your problem is electrical in nature not advance related. Good luck buddy.

The weather changed here in the desert on Tuesday, too. First time in 82 days the temperature didn't get into triple digits - only made it into the 90ºs. Time to look for the snow chains. Dennis

Porsche fan as well! Many similarities with our Zs. Here are my two "boys" meeting face to face:

@jalexquijano Normally I would say no because we haven't proven them to be defective but I'm going to say yes, dump them. They're not that expensive and I still suspect the problem is in the wires or connections.

That's high praise indeed from such a respected authority as Mr Pete Brock, and I have the great pleasure of pretty much agreeing with him. Way back in the early 1990s I attended a Japanese Toyota 2000GT owner's club meeting at Tsukuba Circuit, and was very kindly allowed a drive of several laps around the circuit in a beautiful silver RHD MF10. What a revelation! Like putting on a bespoke Savile Row suit, it just felt 'right'. A proper Japanese GT car. Loved it. Some pretty stupid comments on Bring-A-Trailer (the worst - some idiot claiming that Toyota "stole" the design etc etc - flagged up and deleted) as usual when it comes to Japanese cars. You know the drill...

Got an appt for the dyno for this Saturday. But, right now it looks like rain, so I might have to reschedule. Number predictions, anyone?

Could be a reversion issue. Could be a lot of things. I recently tuned a ITB setup with MS3 and it had a huge reversion issue ( Cam related ) at exactly 2,200 RPM. Had to lock Auto Tune out at those VE Values as it was going mental. The pulsations in the exhaust were throwing the O2 sensor out of whack. Reversion affects both Intake and Exhaust sides. One of the theories behind anti-reversion headers is to reduce Intake reversion pulses wit Independant Runner manifolds. It is also not uncommon to purposely leave a slight mis-match or step at the intake manifold side. IE: Make the Intake runner port just slightly smaller than the actual Port on the cylinder head. Since reversion pulses mainly travel along the outer walls of the runners, like a " Smoke Ring ", a small step at the runner circumference can reduce the strength of the pulse. But it all varies from engine to engine. Really complicated stuff and above my Pay grade...

Well for twenty-five bucks, it's certainly worth a shot. If it works as well as mine, it'll answer any questions about the real pressure that the injectors actually see. I took a quick look at Ashcroft's website and I couldn't find a diagram that explained the basic theory of operation for the internals. I did see some mention of magnet(s), so I assume it's the same magnetically coupled meter movement concept as the one I have, but I couldn't 100% determine. This whole thing sounds like a typical 280Z story to me. Most of us have been through it. So far, you made a simple mistake and screwed up your ignition timing and vacuum hose routing, Your PO put in a fuel pump that was incompatible with the stock pressure regulator. And you paid for an injector cleaning that had to be done twice because the first time didn't work out as intended. Nothing unusual so far. Admiral goal to keep that sort of stuff from happening to anyone else, but I wonder if you're trying to prevent the un-preventable.

Ever wonder what a job application or university application looks like in Canada now that we have Trudeau as a leader...note the least important question at the bottom? Applicants are encouraged to complete this questionnaire as it informs the Employment Equity through Affirmative Action Policy. Employment Equity is a program designed to ensure that all job applicants and employees have a fair chance in the workplace. Employment equity also aims to correct historic underrepresentation in employment by Aboriginal people, persons with disabilities, racially visible persons, and women. You may self-identify in more than one category. For the purposes of this survey, aboriginal persons are people who identify as First Nations (Status, non-Status, Treaty), Metis, Inuit or North American Indian. Do you consider yourself to be an aboriginal person? Do you consider yourself to be Mi’kmaq? Racially visible persons For the purposes of this survey, racially visible persons are people (other than Aboriginal persons) who are non-white in colour and non-Caucasian in race, regardless of their place of birth or citizenship. Do you consider yourself to be a racially visible person? If yes, please indicate the group(s) below which best applies to you. Historically/indigenous Black Nova Scotian? Person of African (Black) heritage? East Asian (Chinese, Japanese, Korean, etc.)? South Asian (Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, etc.)? South East Asian (Cambodian, Filipino, Thai, Vietnamese, etc.)? West Asian or Arab (Iranian, Lebanese, Afghan, etc.)? Latin, South or Central American? Persons with a disability For the purposes of this survey, persons with a disability are people who have a long term or recurring physical, sensory, mental, psychiatric or learning impairment and includes people whose functional limitations due to their impairment have been accommodated in their current job or workplace (e.g., by the use of technical aids, changes to equipment or other working arrangements) Do you consider yourself a person with a disability? Gender Do you self-identify as a woman? Sexual Orientation, Gender Identity and Expression Do you consider yourself to be a person who is lesbian, gay, bisexual, queer, two-spirited or a similar term? Do you consider yourself to be a person who is trans, transgender, transsexual, gender queer or a similar term? Are you a Canadian Citizen or Permanent Resident? btw this forum has flag icons ?️‍??️‍??️‍??️‍??️‍??️‍??️‍?

That's what I did. It seemed to be 'rusted on" a bit, so I turned the arms slightly to break them free, and they came off. I just wish those little screws holding the rubberized bracket to the case would come off, so I could pull the clockworks out to paint the inside. I'll paint it anyway- very slowly!

Tried powdercoating another valve cover for fun. I didn’t like the way the black powder coat looked so I sprayed it down with bed liner, the same stuff I used on the frame rails. Polished the lettering and now I like it!

I think so too Zed. I plan my methods during the week and attack during the weekend. My hope is that any unfortunate individual who has to go through what I am/did with this car can reference this at some point and use the numbers to make the right decision rather than throwing money/time where it shouldn't go. Fortunately Ashcroft has very good documentation on their website. The item currently on eBay is: Model: 25-1130FL-25S-XV2-60# 25: Size (2.5") 1130: Series F: Body Material (Aluminum) (The stainless bodies have a higher max pressure rating of 6,000-PSI) L: Case Fill (Glycerin Fill) 25: Process Connection Size (1/4" NPT Female) S: Process Connection Location (In line) XV2: Options (1-SPST switch with terminal strip) 60#: Range (60 PSI) More importantly, the o-rings are Buna-N so gasoline should not be a problem. For the cost it is worth a shot.

.... or get one of each....

Haha, the battle is raging on whether the 240z or the 280z is better So the electrical system is not that much of a problem in the 240z, and I'll fit fine in a 2-seater (I'm 6'2" but I had back trouble, so most of my height is in my legs). But the 280z has better AC. Yes, I want AC, this is Texas . Though a retro fit might be enough? Just wondering, is the fuel injection electronic on the 280z? I'm that kinda guy who wants a car that will survive an EMP. An electronic fuel pump won't, that's for sure... And thanks for the answer about Dave Irwin, I'll def check that out. I guess it goes back to the rust issue, if I find a good deal with little rust, gotta jump on it whether it's a 240z or a 280z

It’s mostly submerged. The pump is a little tall for my cabinet. Manufacture claims the trash pump can handle just about anything. Also I know that this is the same pump the pro cabinets use. If I was to do this a lot I would just buy a vapor honing system. They are nicely made and take the guesswork out. I think stainless cabinet would be much nicer.

I should add a disclaimer for some of the sh!t I do -lol

My gun has a max 3/8 fitting. So I have 3/8 hose from the gun to the pump. The pump has a 2" to a 3/4" NPT adapter. Then a 3/4 NPT to 3/8th hose barb. Then air, lots of air. I run like 120 psi through my hose.

You have this crew confused with some other group!!!!!

The Meguiars worked really well. I applied it with my small air driven buffer. Thanks for the tip!

Ooooo! Goodies!