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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/2018 in all areas

  1. Thank you, I hope! Vin Number: HLS30-01772 Birthdate: 2/70 Early features: Throttle Lever and Red Dot Mirror.
  2. Looks like it flows over twice what an L6 needs. The stock pumps are about 30 gph, you're at 67. Not sure what car you're in but the 240Z's have problems with high flow EFI pumps, the retunr lines are too small. Some people have problems with their 280Z lines, when using the high flow pumps, apparently. And these types of pumps hate inlet restrictions. Not sure what type of pre-filter you're using but it should be a low restriction filter. The final filtering happens on the other side, the prefilter is just for the chunky stuff. Kind of looks like you'll have a noisy pump that gets hot and might fail soon. The system is not cohesive. What was the old pump that just failed? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dwk-9-250?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-deatschwerks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzMSewsP33QIVEKrsCh1IrQslEAQYAiABEgLCF_D_BwE
  3. Ok, sorry for the long time between posts. I’ve had a busy couple weeks and was out of town last weekend for my anniversary. Did a bit more research and found some folks saying that the electric fuel pump by the tank doesn’t actually turn on until the engine’s running. So for now, I decided to leave that alone and focus on the mechanical. At some point I’ll wire in an electric pump only, but don’t really feel like investing in wiring equipment just yet. I did disassemble the mechanical fuel pump and don’t see any issues… diaphragm looks fine to me. But I did already purchase a new one from zcardepot. Unfortunately, it didn’t come with the spacer… a bit frustrating. I’d expect a site which specialized in Z car parts to send a unit with the necessary parts, or at least tell me I need to purchase that separately. So no real progress on getting the car started yet. I did work on removing the asbestos-filled fuel line insulation. I just wanted to get rid of that stuff and not worry about it. I originally tried to remove it all without cutting to minimize the dust created. It was pretty easy except for the final line that ran right above the manifolds next to the rocker cover. I thought I could actually remove the brackets holding the line and just take the whole assembly off the car, then just slide the insulation off. That didn’t work so well as I couldn’t quite access one of the bolts. Ended up cutting that last section off. And I committed by first dumb move of the project… sheared off a bolt in the water pump which holds the plug wire bracket… obviously not a critical piece, but it reinforces my desire to get an impact driver. Anyway, that’s all I have to update. Hopefully I can find a fuel pump spacer and get that bolted on next weekend. Michael
  4. Yep, we all know they're 4 lug. The photo was just a round about image quickly nabbed I would imagine.
  5. The scary thing is, I only bought less than 1% of what lies in the subterranean vaults of the Zkars emporium of fine automobile components. Jim could build another 6 Z cars out of the bins in his archives. Behold the truth my brethren. If it’s parts you need, Jim’s the man in deed.
  6. Yep, this series 1 sold in less than an hour. Seattle and Oregon always seem to have killer deals going on
  7. Keep an eye on the Portland and Seattle Craigslist.There's still quite a few Z's in this corner of the country.
  8. I assembled the front shock struts today. Interesting thing about the '73 Z is that they have a rubber bellows assembly that goes over the strut, inside of the spring. I have not seen these before. The original bellows were toast so I ordered some new ones from Rock Auto. They are a bit hard to see since they are inside the spring, but they look real cool. Also got new lower ball joints and sprayed those with a clear coat along with the threaded studs at the top of the strut assembly.

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