Leaderboard

Thank you for your service from all of us. I can write whatever I want thanks to you guys and girls. If other roads were taken and some turns missed a loud mouth like me would be in a plastic barrel in Turkey. Cliff

Well, easy in regard to the pedals themselves... You don't have to do anything there. (Or, if you already have the dash out of the car.) The pedal box is probably the very first interior dash thing installed in a bare chassis. Everything else near there gets attached to it or installed over it - thus requiring quite a bit of disassembly to replace it. (although, in my old age it's probably easier for me to pull the whole dash than lay under the steering column while trying to fish the pedal, bolt, spring (little plastic things under the spring ends), clutch pin and clip, blah blah blah...)

Helped a friend's Z: - Valve adjust: now idles like a sewing machine - Find a clunk: one rear differential to moustache bar stud and bold went AWOL.

I sure am glad I wasn't taking a sip when I read your reply.... SPEEEEEEWWWWW I think if that is going to happen, we need to ask @Zup's better half to do some research on rooms,.... Zup and @S30Driver had some really NICE suites - Are you guys IN?. But, I'm sure I would be the one banished to the bathtub according to Bruce's observations... err, complaints. I'm on the fence on Branson, leaning in a nay way, but am ON for Nashville.

Thank you Cliff, And thank you to all service members / Veterans for your service as well.

She who must be obeyed has reduced his killing funds! A few rounds of Siran Wrap would be much cheaper. Good call Wayne! I think you and Captain Obvious plus myself would be a hotels best trio. I would take the bath tub as long as you two promise not to pee in there. Branson or Nashville? Maybe you two will have a/c for our '77s figured out by then?

Surely you mean plastic wrap.... Turkish people are cheaper than @Captain Obvious to waste a perfectly good plastic barrel ..... Just kidding. I can't laugh too much as my roots trace back to Hungary. And it was great to meet you at ZCon. Next time, BEER!

He bought more than one sanding block. Perhaps it's a hint that he wants to help. Yeah, that's it. Everyone likes to sand.

Finally found some series 1 wheel chocks. I sent off for around 30 yellow powder samples. I decided on 02 VETTE YELLOW by Prismatic powders. It was close, just slightly brighter, I think when new this would have been almost identical. First picture was taken indoors under terrible lighting. This finishes off my series 1 tool kit.

Looks like you didn't Hoover up a whole one. Try this one:

Did it not have shinier links for set up? Here's mine...

I think those longer tail pipes are to keep the fumes away from the hatch? I have seen a lot of stained rear bumpers on 280s, matter of fact I see one every time I go down stairs. I'd kick the $^!# of of one every time I walked by it if mine had one. Skinless shins!

It’s on my list. The car sat for almost 18 yrs, I was happy I was able to get it to run (thanks to the people on this forum). Rome wasn’t built overnight ?

? I love to see pics of 280's - with super long tail pipe extensions! cough, cough...

L”. THE NEW Fuel System 1. Brand new in-line AIRTECH fuel pump. 2. Brand new rubble lines 3/8” from tank AIRTECH PUMP. 3. Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines to AIRTECH fuel pump. 4. Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines fuel filter. 5.Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines to Brand new PELLERT rail. 6 Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines out PELLERT rail. 7. Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines out to a FUEl REGULATE; 8. Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines in of FUEl REGULATE; PELLERT. 9. Brand new rubber 5”/15” fuel lines out of FUEl REGULATE; Again thanks for all you HELP

Seems like someone is now selling plans to make one. Lol https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/diyvaporblasterbuildplans/

Another method is electrolysis, do a u-tube search on rust removal electrolysis, not hard to make.

I have always stripped to bare metal as a point of procedure rather than necessity in every case. Sometimes it is a waste of my effort as the repair was well done, other times I find a problem that would have only gotten worse. Peace of mind is worth it in the long run...

Like Zkars said- it’s all about the size of the brake MC booster unit getting bigger and causing the spacing of the holes in the firewall to change - this changing the spacing - this changing the alignment of the rod going thru the firewall - this screwing up everyone’s day

Well I'm pleased to say that the car is back and tucked away in the garage for now. Picked the car up on Saturday morning and was straight over to Wheels in Motion to correct the alignment on the car which needed to be redone on all four corners due to the complete overhaul done on the car this year. Safe to say there were some hairy and slightly sideways moments on the way over there with every corner having its own idea of where it should be going. The good news was despite the monsoon weather and all of the standing water I was driving though on the way home the car felt completely planted and much more sure of itself and its even fair to say that the windscreen wipers performed valiantly getting me back in one piece. The car has been away for a variety of reasons however the vibration we were suffering from was ultimately prop related and the installation of a new single piece custom prop which was uprated with larger greaseable joints which has completely removed the issues. With the suspension setup and solid diff mount there's still more feedback going through the chassis that originally however that seems to be expected. The upside is now with those issues resolved and drivetrain overhaul the car seems to be happy to shift up to around 6k rpm which is higher than I previously thought however it really needs a dry day to properly explore the current levels of performance both engine and suspension wise now. I'm even thinking that the very hard all season michelins may get scrapped in favour of some much stickier Yokohama AD08R's given they're availability in the perfect size which will hopefully step the handling up another notch again. Underneath the front of the car the new front anti roll bar mounts have been bolted in place and I must praise Iain as he really has outdone himself with the work on these, they are very subtle but have really beefed things up so that we don't have any concerns. At the same time the entire headlight wiring loom has been removed and used as a template to build a completely new and more weather proof wiring loom with the addition of the relay kit from the US to massively improve the reliability. While I was there we've dropped some Osram Night Breaker Lazer bulbs in which have massively improved the lighting and was very noticeable from my limited use coming home in the rain, there seems to be plenty more light upfront now. While in there sorting the wiring, Iain also noticed that our sidelights had previously had their wires cut to be removed from the system with the bulbs hijacked for our indicators in the past. That's since been rectified and the wiring reimplemented so we now have independently working side lights and wing lights working as well. Some areas of the chassis have been treated from very minor surface rust that had developed and been covered in wax oil for protection however I seriously need to get the car professionally undersealed to protect the chassis for the UK climate. If anyone has any recommendations in the South of the UK I'm all ears for suggestions? Minor tweaks have also been done to tidy up the engine bay wiring including the movement of the electronic ignition module to move things along, there's still plenty to be done though. The exhaust has been repainted in VHT paint to tidy it up but its really highlighted how restrictive the exhaust becomes by the silencer, I have no idea what the diameter is however I have high hopes for the full Z story system that's arriving for the car in the new year. I'm sure there's more however those seem to be the highlights, we're getting closer and closer to getting the car where I want it to be. Lots of little details and mods here and there to get her where she should be and I'm desperate for a dry day to have some fun but that's enough for now. On to the exciting bit now, the shiny bits. IMG_8147 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_8148 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_8203 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_8150 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_8180 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_3526 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_3529 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr My exhaust restrictions, no idea how much difference to expect with the shiny Story one going on... IMG_8168 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr Where we now stand IMG_3531 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Hey if you’re looking to get rid of them I know the guys behind vintage dashes wanted NOS panels to use as templates for reproductions, might be worth while contacting them, can probably pay what their worth /get panels back to the community Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I’ve arrived safely. Here’s her new home for the time being. She’ll be in the barn. Thanks for all the support. 0614717B-3788-48B1-8AFC-1CA4BF3E299D.MOV

That’ll buff right out!

Found this on Phil’s 240Z Registry on Facebook.

This past Tuesday, with friends - went thru an extensive and well organized collection of used parts that had been pulled from S30's, S130's, and Z31's. Purchased a lot of S30 stuff to eventually organize, checkout, and offer for sale to our community. Some very interesting treasures were in there. Impossible to estimate how many cars had been stripped to build this collection that was stored in a shipping container. That's my Xterra with the back seat down and the storage area filled to the roof. Yes - that's a pair of E31 heads.

They are not Nissan quarters. Blue shows pictures of the correct NOS panels. I used have about 50-75 sets of these aftermarket panels. They do install very well as compared to Tabco panels. I probably have some of the original cardboard wrappings but they're at my other garage. I think they were made in Taiwan. Chuck

Seems much more than adequate. I don't know why they don't just put the specs out there somewhere. That pump is a replacement for Ford F350's with 445 CI diesel engines. Which means high volume of a more viscous fuel. The general spec for a stock L6 is about 30 gph at 36 psi. Higher volume means bigger draw on the electrical system. You don't want that on these cars, the electrical is on the weak side already. The Airtex E8312 is a common replacement. I have one, it's worked great for years and many miles. https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540865716&sr=8-1&keywords=airtex+e8312 Here's the data for the 69136 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-69136/applications