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Constantly worrying about the damned Porsche engine while my wife just dreams about the Z!

Cliff, Thanks it was an honor to serve a grateful nation. Someone said it earlier but I wanted to say it again. The families carry much of the burden of the ones who serve. Deployments are hard on the ones left behind. The experiment we call America is fragile and most are unaware how special it is. Freedom is lost in miles and regained in inches and usually at the end of a sword. No one can serve without out the support of our citizenry. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As a fellow Porsche & Z owner, I think you probably need to sprinkle a few $$$$$$ around the four cylinder engine illustrated parts breakdown to make it a really good nightmare. Dennis

Now I’m craving a pint of draft....

My Dad

A timing light that shows rpms is very helpful. You want both carbs separately running the same rpms. Use the nozzle knobs to get them close. Front may be at 2.5 turns down while the rear could be 3 or 2 turns? Get them both idling the same rpms. google "quick and dirty su carb adjusting classiczcars.com". Thanks to @240260280 for the info.

Nice car. Are you saying that one carb behaves differently than the other carb, when tuning? Like the front is different than rear? Are you sure that all six cylinders are fully functional? Just clarifying. I'm not a carb guy.

Mr. Shigeru Nagata, was the interpreter assigned to assist Mr. Goertz when Mr. Goertz arrived at Nissan in Japan. Among many other noteworthy accomplishments, he was assigned to build a new Design Center in the USA. Nissan Design International was founded in 1979 and held its Ground Breaking ceremony in 1981. The project was finished in 1983. See: http://zhome.com/History/ShigeruNagata/SNagata.htm

1983 Nissan Design Studio San Diego

Good info Taka!

Hey jim, I ran into the same problem with the spalling rockers. On my fresh rebello engine, I made the mistake of using the wrong kind of oil. Just some off the shelf high mileage semi synthetic (with extra zinc). On the first go around, my cam survived, but the rockers didn't. I replaced all 12 rockers with nissan ones, and ran joe gibbs hot rod motor oil with lucas zinc additive and I had no issues. So the next summer, I used Amsoil ZROD oil. Big mistake, this time the spalling occurred on my camshaft and some on my rockers. I ended up replacing both camshaft and rockers. I think with our engines, you might need some extra zinc especially if the engine has a bigger cam. I know that this information is irrelevant now that you have re-grinds, the cheapest OEM rockers can be obtained from Kameari engine works from japan. Yup, japan! I got a set of 12 for $450 Canadian shipped to my door. Cheaper than local dealers and courtesy parts.

Here's a picture that I downloaded about 10 years from the Internet (sorry, too long ago to remember what site it came from) of some 240Zs awaiting restoration for Nissan's Vintage Z Program at Pierre Z in Hawthorne, CA back in 1997.

thanks! unfortunately it’s still off by a lot. we pulled the spring in the needle and seat because the needle kept blocking the fuel inlet. we stretched the spring in the needle and seat and then verified by blowing into the fuel inlet pipes. We verified the floats were perpendicular to the lid but the fuel level still does not reach the tab. What’s left is the needle and seat which I ordered from Ztherapy. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thank You Wayne! I'm glad to hear from you more often on the forum. We need helpful people on here like you. I know you've been here way longer than me but seems like Zcon and sharing some time with Bruce has made you crazy enough to reply to guys like me.

Cliff, Thank you for that. As it has been said somewhere, if you can read and write, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a Veteran. I missed out on any action during my tour, but if I had to do it all over again, I would in a heartbeat. Semper Fi!

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile @siteunseen here’s the float levels.

I swear that looks like the red one they had displayed in the bed of a Titan this year at the ZCon host hotel. I just looked at my phone for pictures but couldn't find any. YO Boss, I NEED A RAISE.....

I still love you Alan.... but I'll never visit you at your home... or I'll be sure to wear boots when knocking on your door.

Every time one comes up for sale, I think, "yeah, do it". Then I remember I don't fit in one. Not even close. Like Miata's... I could turn it in to a club cab and drive from the back seat I guess.

For what it is worth, I used to run a small shop in Virginia call Z-Car restorations, but got out of it in the 90's for various reasons. I have installed many of these on customers cars, and they work well as some others have stated. I had about 17 sets at one time, but went through all of them but one set. Mine were originally distributed / sold by Keystone, and it was my belief (at the time) that they were Tabco parts. As soon as I can dig out my old set I will see if I can still read the labels and report back if I can find any useful info.

It was mom's Kirby vacuum cleaner for me. But she was smart enough to to challenge me. Lady never had tangled up necklaces.

It'd be fun to renew one that old. My mom never did understand why I HAD TO disassemble and reassemble my new bike and anything else I could get my hands on. The urge lives on.

Oh I probably wouldn't drive it much, I just want to take it apart and put it back together, yes I was one of those kids, my Mom would never leave me alone with a multi driver.

"Sometime they'll give a war and nobody will come." Carl Sandberg.

It will be a good day when all wars are just distant memories, faded pictures, and stories in history books. Dennis

First let me thank you all for your replies to my dilemma. I'm new here and I really appreciate everyone's input and eagerness to help out. I think I found a home for my Z project. I'm still now exactly sure what works and what doesn't on my 73 Z. So let me pose a few questions. Diseazd informed us that the vin # on the parts Wal280Z and I were discussing were from a 72 Z and not a 73. I don't know much about how Datsun did their vin numbers but mine is 152810 and was manufactured Mar 1973. Wayne's vin # is 163037. I would think with it being 10,000 digits higher it would be a 73 as well (yes/no?). Second, the "L" bracket... in looking in the Datsun factory manual, it does not show the bracket. It just shows the clevis on the master cylinder attaching directly to the pedal. Maybe it is just showing a "typical" illustration and not an actual one. If all it takes is adding the L bracket to the pedal I can easily weld one onto the clutch pedal. Third: I was wondering if anyone who has a 73 would be able to provide a picture of the actual 73 clutch pedal and a picture of the brake and clutch master cylinders as viewed from the engine compartment. Thanks again for all your help, hopefully I'll be able to return the favor. Paul (z3beemer)

Yeah, those compression numbers aren't stellar. Did you have the throttle blocked to WOT while doing the compression test? I do not believe that running rich would make up for poor compression. If you're running all the original hoses and stuff, I wouldn't be surprised at all if you've got a whole bunch of little vacuum leaks. Little leaks like that are killer at idle. Much less of a contributor at higher throttle positions, but a real problem at idle. You want every molecule of air passing through the carbs, not around them. The extra hoses and connections and complexity make it more difficult to achieve that with the flat tops. Also remember than none of the carb systems work great until the engine is up to temp. If you're starting the engine cold and expecting to be able to immediately take the choke off, you're kidding yourself. You'll need some choke (and the associated idle boost it provides) until the engine warms up. Next, if I were doing this, I would try to simplify the system to get things tuned... Remove the air cleaner and plug the appropriate connections. You should be able to remove and cap the anti-backfire stuff, the idle compensator stuff, and the intake air damper control snout lines. You can temporarily live without any of that stuff and disabling them will remove a bunch of potential leak areas.

Aren't you going to count them? I think I have the right one. Here's a little bit better picture showing what I think must be the splines used to lock the synchro cone on to the gear. I've noticed the pattern before but never really thought it through. Metal can stretch so maybe a good beating can actually break those two pieces apart. The back of the input shaft shows a really clear line. And a bonus picture of my neighbor, since he was out. Edit - some good micrometer or caliper measurements might pick up a wobble.