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Shocking. A rich person avoiding taxes! I can't be party to this, I'm selling my 42 year old old beat up 280Z!3 points -
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2 pointsThat thing is chunky! ? I got it from a big automotive trimming supplier in Sydney. You are looking for a Micro Suede.2 points -
I had the same issue with one of my side marker lights as well. The metal housing was completely rusted out. I purchased the aftermarket ones on Ebay from Malaysia (or Thailand). I noticed a few things were different so I just took them apart and used the new metal housing but used the old, original rubber, outer metal trim, and plastic lens which were all still in good shape. I just cut the old bullet connector off the rusted original one and soldered it onto the new housing.2 points -
2 pointsHi Jason: Great story - thanks for sharing and a really wonderful 240Z. A few comments… - I can’t see any reason that rear carb can’t be disassembled and restored. I would encourage you to do whatever is necessary to retain all original parts on the Z. Keep all the original take off parts from your Fathers garage with the car as well. For sure, keep the Bob Sharp license plate frame!! - Make sure you keep the original Date Stamped Spark Pug wires and every original hose clamp etc.(the difference on value for an all “original” Z, for all these very small details can be several thousand dollars). - I believe the aluminum wheels are Appliance - not American - With a 24K original miles and original paint on a one family owned 70 240Z - I would have an Agreed Value of at least $50K with Hagerty. The Z is impossible to replace in terms of its history with you and your family - Nonetheless given todays market you, would most likely spend a year or more looking for a replacement of equal condition, and a year from now that might cost you $65K or more to purchase. (go find another original with 24K miles).2 points -
2 pointsMr.Patcon: Thanks for the attempt to translate, but in fact (and as illustrated in my story), "looks" are not the primary criteria at all, tho they do have a place in the equation. It is the experience of many people that with old cars, a long and often uncertain past should be enough to make one think twice all by itself, but add the element of a disreputable appearance, and refurbishment becomes a no-brainer. Especially if other tasks provide the easy opportunity to do the job, as in the case of Mr.Gothem22's in-hand injectors. This paradigm is especially true with cheap old cars, which only remain feasible when personal labor can stand in for money. See "taking the time to do it right the first time is always cheaper than making the time to do it over", above. Of course, I will concede that if one's past operations make doing more damage than good the likely outcome, I can understand their trepidation at doing what should be done. My personal issue with the caveat of "a man should know his limitations", is its application to one's level of skill implies "I can't learn more", which leads to "I give up", a form of defeatism that is too easily communicable. This is what leads to infectious despair and the sale of "projects" half done. I happen to believe that the point of this kind of forum is to provide a learning experience thru shared knowledge and enthusiasm. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think so.2 points -
2 pointsPlan to possibly take them for plating Wednesday if the company is open. I will let you know when they are plated. JLP2 points -
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1 pointI had no key for my glove box door, so, I removed the lock and took it to a locksmith. He re-keyed it so I can now open it with the same key that I use on the rest of the car.1 point -
1 pointJeff, you can use ABS cement with fiberglass to repair cracked panels. It will wet out just like resin and sets hard. Good job covering the panels. It's a real pain! I did a vinyl wrap on mine and had flashbacks watching the video. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk ETA: some pictures from a while back
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Here is an old pic of my yellow 1970 which I owned back in the 70's. The orange one is an early 1971 series one I just picked up a few months ago.
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1 pointKeep in mind that insurance is all about managing risk - so the difference between a Yearly Premium of $135.00 or $450.00 could be because of different age drivers, location of the car, and Liability Coverage - $50K/$100K will be quite a bit less than $300K/$1M. Then you have to add any "options" you select. Hagerty has road side assist that dispatches tow trucks equipped to handle Classic Cars etc, then there are insurance for things like spare parts and the cars contents etc. So basically the only way to compare rates for you - is get quotes for you, in your area etc. Otherwise the numbers can be very misleading. I've been with a couple different Classic Car insurance carriers - been with Hagerty since they agreed to insure our Original Owners 240z's with much higher Agreed Values than any other company would at the time.. plus they have an excellent reputation for Paying Claims.1 point
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But how much can one man spend and still sleep at night? I think a lot of people with mental disorders are in high corporate positions due to their illogical greed and lust for power. I've seen quite a few greed-driven co-workers rise and fall.1 point
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1 pointYes it's kind of like a stud welder, but I'd say far milder. https://www.easybeat.com.au/easybeat-model-3000-car-truck-body-dent-pulling-ma I haven't tried it on the rear 1/4 panels, perhaps they are very thin like you say due to the amount of stretch they would go through via the pressing process? I did have issues using it on the rear hatch once, but that was because I had thinned the metal out a bit already (via angle grinder with flap disc) and we were using a body file to knock down high spots etc.. it did blow a tiny hole. That's when I stopped and decided a small amount of filler may be more appropriate. (gotta learn what not to do sometimes). I agree long thin dollies and perhaps a "slapper" would be another option (if you are not working on the panel off the car).1 point -
I was able to post a lot of pics to the classic autotrader site that I mentioned before: https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1972/datsun/240z/101047591 I took photos of all the places that Jaymanbikes suggested. I could only see rust in one place - that was in the hatch area..... didn't look too bad. Everywhere else looked pretty good! Ill try loading some of the pics here too. Thanks again Jaymanbikes.
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Hey Cliff, what's new? That plant is only a few miles from my office. I am on the car side though, so I haven't been there in years. I am finally about to start working on the Z race car again. I have all the engine parts needed and right after Thanksgiving, I plan to put the engine back together. Once that's done, I am going to rewire the entire car and upgrade the brakes.1 point -
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1 pointMr.Head: Sorry you find the point obscure. I'll try one more time to be more clear; don't complain if you find it blunt. Only a fool trusts luck.1 point
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1 pointYes, I had a 100 or so laser cut. I am waiting to make a zinc plating run to Muncie, then they will be ready.
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1 pointIn a 240z I restored: replaced carpets, replaced all vinyl (including roof), replaced seat covers, sprayed all the plastic panels, sealed all holes in cabin, and had the painter spray the interior.... yet the Z smell prevailed. I am thinking dash and wiring are big factors.1 point
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1 pointInteresting, 1 thing I noticed about all my S30Z's is they have the same smell too! I always thought it was the smell of the vinyl and jute materials, coupled with the dashboard and interior plastics. I love the smell, it's takes me back to 1997 when I got my first 240z as a 17 year old boy who had worked with my uncle as a bricklayer over my summer holiday from school to pay for it. It's funny but I always worried that using reproduction materials wouldn't reproduce the same smell... I definitely think it's the aged vinyl, because I have a box with spare vinyl pieces and when I open it I get hit with the same smell. My 70 is stuck in the garage without driver side door glass and rear hatch (so the interior is open to air) and as a result the smell has left it. However I suspect if I put the hatch back on and door glass etc.. and seal it back up, each time I open the door I'll be hit with that smell. When I was in the US I opened the door on an HLS30 and noticed the same smell, not sure if the home market cars smell different? :)1 point
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1 pointI have one of these stickers on the back of my JDM 1972 Fairlady z. The back panel has been resprayed by the previous owner, (original colour can been seen where some of it has cracked off). . I think they cut the sticker down at the same time. Probably because it was peeling off.
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I wish I had known you wanted to change springs & shocks. We could have done that at my place.1 point -
1 pointThank you for your service from all of us. I can write whatever I want thanks to you guys and girls. If other roads were taken and some turns missed a loud mouth like me would be in a plastic barrel in Turkey. Cliff1 point
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1 pointThanks for the thoughts Site, we appreciate it. I also like to pass my thanks to the spouses of serving members. They put up with a lot from us and often suffer more from lack of information while we are deployed than anyone knows. They know we are in danger, yet don’t hear from us for weeks at a time or more. Here’s to them too!1 point -
1 pointCliff, on behalf of the Vets in the group, I thank you for the recognition. It hasn't always been that way. Although I helped keep the world safe from Communism during my 20 year Air Force career last century, I still know some folks who could stuff you in a plastic barrel and send you to Turkey. Dennis1 point -
Maybe this diagram will help. It's better than the one in the FSM though the colors on the relay plugs are different from yours. 1977 280Z Color Wiring Diagram1 point -
1 pointThat's probably the same one I linked to earlier in this thread that was submitted by wal280Z. Your link doesn't work.1 point
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1 pointI think you might be looking for wal280z's wiring diagram: http://www.classiczcars.com/downloads/F77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf1 point
