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1978 280z Odometer reads 45K and that’s probably just what it is. Bought in 1999 from original owner with under 20K miles on it. I barely drive it nowadays and it just isn’t fair to the car. Well maintained, never failed a smog test. Renovations include but not limited to: new paint (BMW taupe metal-fleck), new upholstery (in original burnt orange), new wheels and dash cap. Wooden steering wheel and stick shift nob from my old 240z. This car is a joy to drive. When I’m on the road people wave, high-five and yell compliments at stop lights— it makes my day! Best conversation starter, ever, but you probably know all about that... Will have a price once tune up and general check up done. - Engine runs well and have only done the necessary or advised— as you can see. - Apron missing (under front bumper). - Rust spots under hatch - Tool kit is all there, never been used. Regulation issue Datsun spare tire inflator canister! And original spare tire which has transferred rust stains to well. Next up: service and repair record, or as much as I can lay my hands on. Let me know if need further photos. Thank you for interest and advice!

Like most people, the soft plastic bushings in my window regulators were shot. I did a lot of poking around but didn't find much. The few I saw required removing the plastic rollers. I did some research and experimentation at home and came up with a cheap and easy replacement. Take a look and let me know what you think. http://ace240z.com/window rollers.html

Beautiful 2000.......the right colors and wheels......perfect!

It is a 1968 Datsun 2000. IT has the Comp oil pan, Datsun Comp C cam and the dual DCOE 45's. I just redid the interior, pulled the dash got the heater working and put some insulation down on the floor. It is a supremely good driving car.

As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it is done, here are the part numbers I used, and my comments. I got mine at club discount from my local dealer, but your dealer may not offer that. So I included prices from NissanParts.cc for comparison. (Prices current as of 1 May 2007.) 17239-E4601, $27.15. Smaller diameter hose, runs from expansion tank to top right side of the fuel tank. About 3 feet long. Has a preformed double bend at the tank end. This hose is apparently actually correct for '73 240Z, but works OK on '70-72 cars as well. (Correct '70-72 hose is NLA.) The double bend is not quite the same as the one that was on my car, but once pulled into place seemed to work well. Arne's advice - RECOMMENDED, but not absolutely required - The preformed bends do help for this hose. You might be able to get by with generic for this one, but the bend at the tank end might kink some on generic hose. Since this one is affordable, I'd do it. 17235-E4601, $53.20. Large diameter hose with several preformed bends, including a 180 degree bend at the tank end. About 4 feet long. Goes from the expansion tank through the floor to the back of the fuel tank on the right side. Correct for '70-73, fits perfectly. Arne's advice - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - You need that 180 but would need to sleeve a generic hose to do it. The price of this hose is not that bad considering the three custom bends. Buy it. 17238-E4602, NLA as of 9/09. Large diameter horseshoe shaped hose, less than 2 feet long. Runs from expansion tank to fitting on filler neck. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - SOMEWHAT RECOMMENDED, not absolutely required - You can do this one fairly easily with generic, especially if you used a slightly longer hose than normal so that the bend was gentle. And now that it's NLA, you'll probably have to... 17236-E4601, $88.43. Medium diameter long hose. About 6, maybe 7 feet long. No bends at all. Runs from left side of tank up through the floor, across and into the bottom of the expansion tank. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - NOT RECOMMENDED - Unless you are a fetishist about original parts, use generic here. This is the most expensive hose from Nissan, but it has NO preformed bends. So there's no advantage to the factory hose on this one. I also used 18" of 3/16" ID fuel hose (return line), 18" of 5/16" ID fuel hose (fuel supply line), and 4 feet of 1/4" ID fuel hose (evap tank to flow valve line) to do all the other hoses there while the tank was out. In addition, I got replacement grommets and hose sealing sleeves from Banzai. The hose sleeves could be replaced with heat shrink, but I felt the real thing wasn't all that expensive. My grommets were still soft, but the replacement hose from the top of the expansion tank to the metal line that goes to the flow valve on the left front inner fender (the 4 feet of 1/4" hose) was a smaller external diameter than stock. One of the grommets I got from Banzai was apparently intended to deal with this difference and worked great at that spot. Anyway, the deed is done. For myself, I'm not sorry that for the red car I bought the long one from Nissan, but for my yellow car I would not have bought that expensive one. I think it worked, the garage does not have that faint gas odor tonight, so I'm happy.

I designed and printed replacements for the washers. Printed in TPU - oil, grease resistant & extremely flexible. it has a similar flexibility to rubber. Does not require the rollers to be removed will flex enough to get over.

Fantastic! Nothing bits finding a solution to problem using simple techniques and hunted down components. Besides, the tarp grommets I bought for the previous solution have magically disappeared in the hoard.... As an alternative to the washers mentioned, since you need to buy 25, McMasterCarr has very similar neoprene washers that you can by fewer of. They are listing as 55 durometer. https://www.mcmaster.com/90133a053 I'd also like to suggest some trials with 'super glue' as the o-ring adhesive. There are o-ring kits out there that have bulk o-ring rope,, a razor blade, and a tube of crazy glue so you can make any size o-ring you want!

I have. Though I brought them in early December last year, well before Kats introduced us to them on this thread. I had nothing to go on, except I had seen the seller selling stuff for years and a good reputation. I got them yesterday. I haven't really had a chance to look at them yet (hence partly the delayed reply). From what I see on-line only, they are selling, more of the rally replica style than the Z432 replica style.

My old landlord's friend hate a ute like that in Ireland, it was always so strange seeing it whilst living over there. To be honest Kats I don't know much about it or where it came from. The owner is a bit tight lipped (which is fair enough). It's currently up in Queesland, so not sure when I'll get to see it, but when I do I'll take a bunch of photos.

Does that L24 have the E30 head? I've got some of those.. Once had a L26 in a 240z with a E30 on it! Worked well that combination.. Later on i tested a E30 on a 240z/L24 but the compression was to much hahaha… (the starter had a hard time to start it!) i think it could have worked with a fat copper (selfmade) gasket!

I had to look at that link - I was sitting in the auction hall when the '76 2+2 was on the block. I also had a chance to see it on the paddock before it went in. The engine bay that I saw today looked nothing like the pictures on the site - it was, well, less cared for... The car ran quite poorly - just as I've seen with other stock early EFI Z's that haven't been gone through. The interior was complete and quite nice, as was the paint. The final bid was $40,000. We also saw the Orange 1973 on the block just a few cars before the 2+2 and were quite amazed at the $37,000 final bid... It was a nice example of a '73 with original engine (with SU's). The interior and exterior looked much better than the engine bay. The hatch glass had vertical defogger lines. Radio was not original IIRC. An Auto Transmission car like the 2+2... Personally I was surprised by the two Z's I saw at auction today.

The description says that it has been fitted with a 5-speed transmission. If it came from the same source vehicle as the engine (?) then it would be an FS5C71-B, which would require shifter and/or tunnel mods in this 1970 production bodyshell. An FS5C71-A would be a straight fit, so I presume it is a B-type 5-speed.

I have a 77 bronco:)

I didn't check the chemistry (not my field of expertise) but I figure the fumes from the Kroil and PB Blaster are probably not good for you either. Did my best to keep away from that stuff. I should clarify, the color of the dry film lube for this application is dark grayish. My intent was not so much the color replication, but the surface build-up and the bearing surface. The shaft is pretty much encapsulated, so the color will not be visible. Also, the dry film lube finish seems to be very durable. They use it to coat the piston skirts on racing engines. And yes, I did have to google STNG ?

Youse too?

Yes it is.

What is this Photoshop you speak of? Is it like the little building in the mall parking lot where I drop off my 35mm Ektachrome to be developed...Fotomat? Or is it a place to buy cameras, film, lenses? Dennis

Hi Kats, Well I'm back on the wild goose chase, hunting that wheel down. Got the contacts of the new owner and have sent them a message on Facebook. Let's hope I can secure it! Not sure if it can be repaired or not. Only 1 way to find out. Attached is a 710 Datsun Violet with the 4 cylinder 5.5j version of the Kobe Seiko wheels, similar the Z432 style. I also managed to find a photo of the Z432 Fairlady Z in Australia (white car), owned by the same person who owns the ex-George Fury Nissan Bluebird race car. In this photo it appears to be wearing Watanabe's. I'm trying to see if I can find more photos of it! It must be odd to see a car like this (quintessentially Japanese) on Australia streets for you? I know it was odd for me to see an Australian Holden Monaro at an Irish (Terenure) car show many years ago now. (2012). It was so familiar, but so out of place in rainy old Ireland.

Check your profile settings and make your actual address private. No reason to share that with the world @STeeleMarine

Don’t be such a stranger Zedy......you are one of my favorite Z peeps!

Oh well I suppose it had to happen sooner or later. The engine I got with the car which was a bit 2nd hand decided to give up at the recent GTR festival. Only got two laps before it started overheating. Not too bad after 3 years hard racing. Diagnosis blown head gasket. We expected that as it had been showing signs and we just keep patching it up. So we decided new head gasket and maybe rings/bearings ...... but turns out it is too far overbored to give it even a hone and the head is to soft to last much longer - so time for a new engine. Happy to post pics etc as we do it - but only if there is interest. Most online forums are dead these days and I can't be bothered with facebook. So post here if you want to see pics of the engine build - heres a teaser

I've been asking that for years.

You give me way too much credit. Sorry you couldn't prove me wrong on this one. I was really hoping you could. So much work for two stupid little screws! I've pulled the dash a number of times, and I agree. It's not really that difficult, just awkward. The A/C evaporator in there really crowds things. If it weren't for that, you would probably have been able to get to it from the front. Anyway, glad you got it out, and here's hoping you're back on the road in no time!

I could have told you that's not possible! Isn't that obvious...

Noise and air flow are somewhat proportional on squirrel cage fans. Plus there is the wear and tear of 40 years of use on the stock fans. Those both could contribute to the difference in airflow. Frankly with driving a car without AC in Georgia or Texas, the more airflow you can get, the better off you are. I think some conversions on the 240Z have mentioned current flow, though I don't recall seeing any quantitative measurements.

I did this swap for my '70 Z last year, using the blower motor and impeller from a Civic. While bench-testing the unit with the newly-installed Honda parts, I discovered that the output performance (CFM) of the Honda impeller is extremely sensitive to direction of rotation. Perhaps you have your motor wired so that it's running the impeller in the low-output direction? FWIW, I tried the same test with the old Nissan motor and impeller and found that the OE set-up provided about the same CFM output (modest) in either direction! This suggests to me that the Z's impeller is poorly designed and performs more like a paddle wheel than a centrifugal fan.