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Hey guys! Got the inner fender skin patch fabbed and fitted. Almost there! Starting to to look like a rail ???

I don't know guys, I'm seeing a $10,000 car that requires major restoration, there are tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car and we haven't seen underneath yet. The car will sell for whatever Lady Luck decides that day but hope the OP will keep his expectations realistic. So far I think he has priced it right.

My favorite wire run grommet thingy from Spal. http://www.spal-usa.com/power_lock_kits/automated/accessories/33040080.html

Yeah, maybe I'm not up to date on Z values, but I don't see a $20k car there. It looks like it needs a total restoration. $10k is way more in line with what I'd expect it to go for. Also, in addition to the rust in the firewall, it looks like it has rust on the inside of the tail panel, just below where the tail lights mount, where the tail panel meets the trunk floor. Strange place to rust, don't think I've seen that before.

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning).

I check mine every year out of habit. Got down to 12 F last night here. When I lived in the Denver area, it got down to -30 during the winter of 85. Had just bought a new Nissan 4x4 pickup. Struggled to crank but it started to get me to work. Was a lineman for a cable company in Rochester NY as well before then and actually worked outside in that kind of weather. Those were the days .... Stay warm, those in the north.

Of course @kats has a set, maybe two sets, his basement must be a gold mine.

I've never seen them, but recall a few threads mentioning them. Looks like @kats has a set.

Driveshaft comparison pic...

In europe you could only find them in the toy shop for those prices

Oh.. so easy… if you're a handyman(!) .. Take apart the non working locks.. take your key that works on everything else.. now put that key in the non working lock..(after you have taken it apart..) now look at the plates (about 4 ?) change the plates from place, so they are flat with the surface or almost.. now if you have made the combination as flat as possible take a grinder and grind them flat on the round cilinder.. can be done with a file but a grinder go's faster and easyer.. now put your locks together again… Can't believe i tell these secrets! ?

I would expect NOS quarters to sell for $1200 - $1500 each. Reproduction panels for $400-$1000 depending on model and condition. A used rear clip from a good donor, $600.... ...just my two cents from what I have learned over the last few years.

There are likely some still out there. "What's your, I don't want to sell it price?" may tempt a few to respond.

They should never be replaced with standard wire jumpers! They should also be replaced with the proper amperage link if they do need replacing.