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While digging through my pile of parts, I found that I did not have a good outside mirror. So I decided to try and see if I could bring one of the damaged mirrors back to life. I picked one that had a major crease on the backside and a couple of small dents. Using a hammer and a blunt chisel I was able to open up the outer fold that holds the mirror in place enough to get the mirror apart. After some hammer and dolly work, a file to knock down the high spots it started to look OK. Some sanding, a bunch of power buffing and polishing and it looks good. Slowly folding the lip back over the mirror with a body hammer and it is ready to use.

Megasquirt or Haltech can fix that..

Time for a mythbusters episode! The half shafts are absolutely identical. No one side longer or shorter than the other. @zKars

Ok, and BTW... I don't know who is taking the bets, but I give it 60-40 in favor of you chipping the edge of the mirror before this is all said and done. Yes, I said it. Sorry.

One of those projects that sounds so easy, but in reality isn't easy at all. If you don't care about the dented housing, you could use a cutting disk to slot the housing metal most of (or all) the way across and then just open it up like a clamshell to get the good glass out. In other words, sacrifice the housing to save the glass. Or instead of cutting through the housing with a disk, you could maybe grind the seamed lip off the bent housing along the widest side and then possibly slide the mirror glass out of the housing like opening a sliding door. So how badly dented is the housing? Could you weld a stud onto it or drill a small hole and pull the dent out? Cover the hole with a Summit Racing sticker or something?

Trico 44-180 refills fit both my cars very good. $8 at O'reilly's. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/trico-5077/wiper-blade-motor-16494/wiper-blades-25089/wiper-refill-12826/83ee6f490634/trico-18-inch-natural-rubber-wiper-refill/44180/4748890/1977/nissan/280z

Mind blown! I would not ‘have believed it without pics.

I'm not a rocket scientist, but if you only shorted an electrical connection, I'm PRETTY sure you don't need a different ENGINE. Maybe you need to search the web for an electrical diagram for your car.

Well, a few questions come to mind.. Do you search craigslist or similar? How far are you willing to travel to obtain what you want? What is your top dollar limit (to include shipping)? There is a website called searchtempest, https://www.searchtempest.com/ that searches the parameters you specify (generally a xxx mile radius from your zip code - your limit to obtain items) It also has the option to not set a radius, as in nationwide. To be clear, I don't have what you are looking for, but, I hope you are aware, you aren't the ONLY person looking for this engine... Are you fixed on the LD28D or perhaps a 4 cyl diesel/trans may be suitable. I'm just asking - don't read any discouragement - the more information you provide and what you want to accomplish may lead to other members wishing to help.

Good luck with this search. Other than posting here, do you have any other searches that you preform? I quickly searched http://www.car-part.com/ (their search engine is quirky - Maxima is segregated from Pre-1981 and Post-1982. Strange.) No results for a diesel engine search. Doesn't mean that there isn't one sitting lonely in a yard, somewhere.... https://row52.com/home Row52 can be your friend..... sign up and save a search for 1981-1983 Datsun Maxima..... Make sure you know the correct VIN code for the diesel engine WHEN you get a notification... Five years ago, I would get a (local) alert for a Datsun every 6 months or so.... Now, I expanded it nationwide and it has become SLIM PICKINGS..... Again, good luck with you search.

Siteuneen: FYI the second photo shows the parts, the mirror is not glued in, there is a rubber backing pad and they just float in the body held by the rolled edge. The metal is quite mailable just take your time.

Don't do it! L-Jetronic EFI and bigger cams do not play nice. I tried to put a Web Racing #91 grind street cam in my L28 and it ran like crap. After some research, I learned that L-Jet relies on proper engine vacuum and the cam reduced the amount of vacuum created. The car idled poorly, had no power through most of the rev range and at best, had a bit more power up top. I pulled the cam and went back to stock. I then installed the same cam in a L28 with very similar compression, but fed via SU carbs and it runs great. I couldn't be happier with the performance.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04 From the Motorsport Z Store Email... Presale/When Can I Get My Struts? The first shipment, for 70-8/74 240Z & Early 260Z, is expected to arrive in the U.S. this March. We expect to receive the 9/74-78 Late 260Z & 280Z Struts 3-4 weeks later, and then the 79-83 280ZX Struts/Spring Seats 3-4 weeks after that. Want to lock in your set from the first shipment? The Pre-Sale is on now at the KONI page at The Z Store! We recommend placing your order with a credit card, so that your order won't be charged until it ships. If you choose to prepay with PayPal, they will charge you ahead of time. Please contact us with any questions at (714)639-2620, (800)633-6331, or info@motorsportauto.com.

The glass is beveled around the edge then the metal is rolled over that.

Sweet!!! My non-smooshed 77 must be worth $472,464 !!

Banzai used to have them.....not sure if they still do.

Any cam with more than a .460 lift will require performance springs.....stock springs will stack up at full lift. I don’t notice hardly any difference in gas mileage with a .490 lift stage III Isky cam from stock. My suggestion is go Stage III with performance springs....you won’t be sorry. Also remember that you will need to use a thicker lash pad (geometry your rocker wipe patterns), and you may need to use a shorter valve stem seal (depending on the motor head that you use) with a higher lift cam......get your machine shop to check those specs. More cam....more fun! Bigger is better!!!!

WOW Cool find!

I think your results will be indiscernible. Notched or unnotched. You should be good to go without any power loss or significant gains.

It could be an AU market car, but we didn't have the turn knob on our fuel filler door. We had a lock. Also we had 1 mirror on the driver's door. (No passenger mirror).

Hi Gavin , I still don’t get what they are joking about, let me review it again. Today I have a question, what country was this red car be exported? The red must be #110 , RHD 260Z , And interesting turn signals and , it even got the fuel filler door knob !! This crisp and clean exterior make this car looked so beautiful , I wish we could’ve have this car in Japan . No exterior mirror , front grill, bumper over riders are my favorite features . Kats

I've done a lot of research on the subject of these 240 tie down hooks and this is what I've found. The hook on the left in the first picture is a Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, reproduction right front and right rear tie down hook, they are the same. The item on the right is a Banzai Motorworks reproduction of the left front tie down bracket. For the 70-mid/late 72 the left rear is a mirror image of the right rear hook. The rear hooks should be mounted so that the open sections face inboard. The second picture shows the left rear hook for the mid to late 72s and 73s. It is huge compared to the earlier left rear hook. They were used to secure the cars on the ship. I could not find a factory service bulletin about removing these hooks during the PDI (pre delivery inspection) from 240s. However. I did find 2 bulletins about removal of the rear hooks from 74.5 (Nissan nomenclature) 260s & 75 280s. The 2 bulletins are TS 73-78 & TS 75-053 . The first bulletin wants them removed to prevent their use for towing and the second bulletin is much more forceful stating that under no circumstances should dealers allow the mentioned models to leave their shops before the rear hooks have been removed. I did find one, and only one, bulletin that called such a part a towing hook. It is bulletin TS 73-56 but if references the L-620 truck.

@Captain Obvious Yep three tabs on the hatch lock face cap---same till 78. I'm looking at Jones Spring Company for small torsion springs for the dust shutter and Subaru locksets for missing pieces like the shutter itself. Jeez C.O.--- you can answer twice to my once. Carry on Capt'n! Very nice holder fixture you fabricated there Sir. I've only stabbed myself three times tonight trying to pry face cap edges with my small screwdriver. I'm giving it up for the eve. Too much blood loss.

The doors, however, are a lot more difficult. I think I've posted some of these pics a long time ago (before Photobucket went hostile)... I made a back-up anvil fixture to support the door lock face cap so it wouldn't get distorted while I pried up the crimped over edge. Here's the support anvil. I made it out of brass so it would be a little softer than the face cap and not mar the stainless face cap: And here's how a door lock fits into the fixture: With the door lock face down in the support anvil, I was able to pry around the edge of the face cap and open up the crimped seam: And after that... I stopped taking pics. I'm guessing that it got warm and I had to drive the Z. I've got a number of spare door locks. I'll take one apart and continue the photo documentary from here.

About the face caps... It's certainly easy to mangle a face cap beyond usability, but with careful removal, it is also possible to put the same one back on and crimp it back into place after messing with the rest of the lock guts. I'm not sure if all the years are the same, but by the time they got to 77, the hatch face caps are easy. There are only three easily bendable tabs holding the face cap in place:

Will do. I probably I didn't throw away the other little spring pieces*, so I might be able to determine which one is in the hatch lock by process of elimination. When I get the chance, I'll take a look for my three lock box. * I mean... Who ever throws out anything like that? My workshop indicates that I keep pretty much all of it.

Interesting to see rear end collision damage contained. Sort of makes this shape:

Not much kept on computers at dealerships during our Z's production era. Generally, paper records only and they get tossed when the file reaches critical mass or the dealership closes or moves to a new location. Dennis

Well they fit great. Haven’t screwed them down as they are for a friend of mine and my existing holes doesent line up. I have a different hole pattern on my old covers (there were at least 2 or 3 different hole patterns for these lenses through the years). Looks and feels like a very good quality item.

Impressive enough formation to go in our Boobs forum too!

well, after weeks of working on it, i'm finally done. and you can reap the benefits of all my work! below i've made available my new, full-color version of the 1976 280z wiring diagram. it is vector-based, so it can be blown up as big as you'd like without losing legibility. the text is copyable and searchable. i will warn you, i'm 110% sure that there are errors. you get a gold star if you point them out to me. a wire or object in hot pink denotes that i'm not sure of the true color of the item. i'll post updated versions on this thread as needed, so look at the most recent reply for the newest download. enjoy! download here: http://sridout.com/datsun/76circuit_COLOR v.1 edit: i thought i'd add an illustration that i just finished for Tim280z of his car. take a look at the thumb below...

Here is the colour 76 280Z wiring diagram. The link keeps playing up for some reason. I think there is another thread, might be my 240Z color wiring diagram thread, with a link that works. Chas 76circuit_COLOR.pdf