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The above being road car prototypes, whereas you first post concerns works race cars. I don't know what conclusions you wish to draw from it, considering that carburettors are basically precision measuring devices which deliver what a given engine needs. Unless you know engine spec/state of tune it's hard to extrapolate anything from it. There will be differences in driveability due to design (apparently the S20 seems to 'prefer' the accelerator pump design of the Weber DCOE vs the Solex patent diaphragm, whereas the opposite is true of the L-gata) but I think it would be silly to say that an engine has "more HP" with one than the other. It's clearly more complicated than that. Of course, the Murayama works team GT-Rs started out with Webers (the Prince engineers had been using Webers for a good while and were used to them) but soon switched to sliding throttle mechanical injection systems, which suited the kind of racing they were taking part in. They were reluctant to fit these systems -and the engine internals which went with the upgrade - to the works 432-Rs (part of that internal Prince vs Nissan struggle) so there was a period when the works GT-Rs were running fuel injection whilst the 432-Rs were still on Webers. The works 432-Rs were racing on fuel injection by May 1970.

Hard days work. Excited to get the outer rims polished and the Gibbs Oil on them and watch them become naturally beautiful!

So I snapped a couple more pics of the 75-77 fusible link for the EFI system. A little background... the 75-77 EFI system has it's own dedicated harness and the only connections it makes to anywhere else anywhere on the car is in one spot above the driver's knees where the EFI main relay is located. The 78 is a little different and has the EFI relays up in the engine compartment and I don't know if they use the same dedicated harness for 78. But for 75-77 inclusive, the EFI fusible link looks like this. Green in color and includes a thick plastic strand for strain relief (that's the white part).

This is your next #1 thing to do. The whole EFI system is based on a certain fuel pressure.

After washing the 260Z on Saturday and going to a Georgia Z Club dinner, Wendy and I hopped into the car again today to go to a wine and cheese event at a friend's warehouse. It's always a good day when I get to drive the Z. Of course, visiting the warehouse has me looking forward to Mitty week 2019 at Road Atlanta.

I am new to this forum and under qualified to have an educated conversation with a Z enthusiast. Despite being undeserving of a Fairlady, I do own one and am in the process of trying to get it back on the road. I purchased the car from my uncle while I was in high school in 1997. I had the rust replaced and body work completed as well as the engine rebuilt before leaving it my parents garage for nearly 20yrs. I now have it in my garage and am looking to bring it back to life. I am looking to make connections with others that have done similar projects and that can help me do a respectable restoration of this car. I admire everyone's passions for these cars but I have to be honest I don't know all of the history and am not a gear head so I don't mean any disrespect by my ignorance. If you have one of these and always wanted one, I would like to know how you did the restoration or would do the restoration. I don't have the original engine as of now, it has a 280 dual carb engine and has had that since I purchased it. I was told that they used to race it in Japan, someone brought it over to WA state, my uncle bought it from him in the early 90s and I bought it from my uncle. Just throwing all of this out there to the Z world, what do you think?

Why not? Ask for a drive.

Stalled. I wanted to have them low pressure die cast like the originals were, but the cost of tooling here in the UK was just too prohibitive. I believe I reported the situation on the FLZ Facebook group. Looks like Hung Vu is coming up with the goods though, so you should be able to get a pair one way or the other.

If I get a chance, I'll pull my EFI link out again and measure the OD. If all the theorization holds true, it should be about 3.0mm OD on the outside if the insulation. On edit... Couldn't stand not knowing! Just pulled it and checked. My green EFI link is spot on 3.0 mm (0.120 in) diameter. Another data point to support the belief that it is a Yazaki FLWX 0.5 (0.56mm cross sectional diameter)

You ended up with 1/2 instead of 2/1.

The Silvermine Motors site. Complete kit for the car is available. I documented the initial install in my thread. Edan [mention=27610]silverminemotors[/mention] will set you up with all you need. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61463-silvermine-motors-electric-power-steering-system/

Yes they can be clear coated and a few guys have done that. I chose not to go that route for fear of any clear coatings having problems with long term adhesion, clear coat cracking issues and or just physical damage. In which case it would have to be stripped off and I wasn’t sure that could be done without damage to the wheels. That decision was made however before I knew how many hours of constant polishing would be required to keep them “old school”… One friend solved the problem by having two complete sets of tires/wheels. For show he uses the original LeMans wheels - but after the show he puts them in "Space Bags” which are drawn down into a partial vacuum and stored. Replaced with aluminum racing wheels for actual road/track use and just storage of the car. Magnesium wheels polished to a high luster are really beautiful - they look like polished nickel. I have to admit that as much as I complain about the necessary time and effort - I do actually love seeing the results of that effort materialize before my eyes. So I guess the cost of beauty in this case is time and effort. I just think everyone should know going in - the cost of owning and maintaining 50 year old magnesium wheels is far more than their initial purchase price.

The last picture is of the cylinder head. Is the mechanic saying there is a tube missing down the right side of the cylinder head? On the later cylinder heads the valve train is oiled from the internally drilled cam. The little holes in the cam lobes. There is no spray bar on the later heads like on the earlier car.

A set of parts , and Z432-R racing manual. It is said that STD pistons are casting made , on the other hand racing pistons are forging made . Even this page doesn’t mention about titanium conn rods , it is the sign of “ titanium conn rods are specifically made for factory racing “ isn’t it ? Kats

Started it up for the first time in 6 month. 40A08557-C506-428F-B8EF-64E44E577F52.MP4

Got it out in the sunshine for awhile. Wore the flat spots out of the tires.

An `82 N/A automatic transmission. Saleswoman let me in the gazebo and walked off. Seeing how I showed up in my rat Z, I explained I've had them apart a few times. Seemed like I wasn't the target customer. The body is beautiful and rust free with 108k miles. Exhaust is tacky, and the motor, while an L28E and not a V8, is in a pretty derelict state, in terms of grime and valve cover finish. No idea how it runs. Battery acid is hanging out below the battery tray too. And, it's an automatic. I decided not to drive it. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk