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My friend just moved to the next town north of where I live. I just received this picture from him. Apparently this is across the street from his new house. Looks like I will need to go check out this new house of his. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Absolutely! The equipment was faulty, however I think the procedures were sound as they yielded good results with different equipment. Exactly! I don't think the PO's Mech. did anything wrong or dubious or acted with malintent. Quite the contrary, he's a solid mech. that was doing what his client paid him to do... get it to pass smog and sell it. The PO's Mech. is actually a pretty solid dude with a wealth of Z knowledge and experience. I've spoken with him several times and he's given me the full service records going all the way back to 1976. I don't find any fault with him, he's trying to run a business and a good one at that. Like you said C.O. it's just an old Z and these problems come with these cars. Case in point, yesterday I "fixed" the inspection lamp... the bottom just needed to be cleaned so a solid ground connection could be made (I still need to fix the toggle). I'm sure I will find many more electrical connections and hoses that need replacing. I'll be monitoring the running rich issue more closely now, I want to ensure it will pass smog EVERY TIME. The good news is, I have about 2 years to sort it all out! ?

Took a shot of what I had not bolted down: Mikuni Solex from Datsun Comp-- 50's / 3 Sets of 44's , 1 Set NOS / From Mikuni America, 44's and 40's / Webers 45's, 42's, (4)Sets of 40's / IDAL 3C 40's / 1 Mechanical Fuel Injection set up (Hillborn type) From a 2.5 liter hydroplane. I know a little bit about trips...........

All good threads must come to an end.... even though this thread was not so good, it's time has come. The issue is fixed and DaveWM gets the kudos for figuring it out. (Dave "Z Oracle")! ?? Thank you for your methodical approach and patience while this got sorted out. The issue was the cable from the bullet connectors to the Water Temperature Sensor connector. (not the WTS itself). A $6 replacement cable from AutoZone fixed the issue and the car is running better than ever! Thanks again everyone for your help! Much appreciated and I'll reach out next time I need expert advice!

Sorry about that. I realized that and started a new thread about my car.

Big shout out to Z Car Depot and their rear strut tower brace. Purchased one and installed in minutes. I like that I can still use the factory covers and that it is so beefy. Highly recommended, very good quality welds. https://zcardepot.com/rear-strut-tower-brace-bar-240z-260z

Did you check your actual timing after you installed the 123? First thing I did after install was make a "setup map" with timing at 10° everywhere and put a timing gun on the pulley. Timing was substantially off so I clocked the distributor until the gun showed 10°. I can post my timing curve when I'm on my tuning computer.

I used a grade8 nut and bolt. You can access the behind from under the vinyl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Waiting on parts. Other jobs that are less glamorous...

Got all the glass in and rear bumper. Was able to drive it for the first time. Drove straight as an arrow. Now to have the front valance painted, install front bumper and reassemble the balance of the interior. I also have a bad spot in my fuse block and am go8ng to get the MSA fuse box.

Took the Z out for its first run this year, haven’t done anything to the car this winter except swapping the battery. Car runs great but still have a small oil leak, need to take care of that soon. Still amazed how small these cars look besides a normal sized modern car : ) //Andreas

Just remember if you let a bargain like that go it will be difficult to go back. They are appreciating at a very fast rate! I have had miatas but a Z has a lot more room and is just so fun to drive. They are sort of the best of all worlds

Drive it for a while, they have a way of crawling into your heart.

Go with the good old NGK copper plugs, nothing fancy, no platinum, g grove, tri fire, just the plain old NGK copper plugs.

If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline. Set valve lash, check timing, etc. Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove. If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too. Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting. I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points. Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs. They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

I love my Bendpak......

ZH, have you never had to pull a shock out of a strut tube that is rust welded in? The oil may not be needed for the operation of the shock but it certainly is needed for our strut tubes. @DangerBoy703, take mercy on the next guy who replaces those shocks, put some oil.

That car will never see rain. And I do have two dash cracks when the prior owner, after restoring it, let it sit outside on a hot day (I spoke to him after the auction).