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First car show of the year for me. 55 degrees sunny and windy but a nice day with over 400 cars on the main street of the little town of Irwin just east of Pittsburgh. I was the only Z car of the bunch. I usually am, not many of the early Z around the Pittsburgh area. I did talk to a couple of gents that owned Z's but did not bring them, they both said there cars were not worthy to show at the time.

Similarly, made it to a local show yesterday - about 125 entries. Four members of our club attended, I managed to snag a Best in Class award in the Post-War Import class. Voting was a People's Choice process by the entrants, a nice recognition for my car from peers. Quite a few rare and unique cars entered in addition to domestic restorations and rods. Check out the FB link below for pics of some very interesting cars. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.2425401730816296&type=3

Unscrew it, seal the threads and screw it back in.... see if that does the trick. If not then it should be changed out.

Two completely independent posts on the exact same fix. Has to be good!

I think in South Florida we go straight into summer with 90 degree temps tomorrow! But, hey, I'm always ready! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Ya it makes the noise consistently forwards and backwards. I gave the joints a yank but got no play out of them. I don't believe the OE half-shafts have grease fittings (I see a screw on them but not a grease nipple).

Yep. My 240Z never ran as smoothly as when I got this installed and the tune right. I set valve lash correctly, rebuilt the SU carbs, with new OEM Nozzles and SM needles, found TDC and then installed the 123ignition dizzy. Sweet. And yes, you can enable/disable ignition spark from the app. So an immobilizer. Most old Datsun keys can start a worn out ignition lock, if they are original.

jfa, really nice looking car and group, really like the green one though, kinda partial to green.?

Good idea, did you put the Teflon tape on the oil sender threads?

I have a ‘73 240Z stock tach and 123ignition tune+ (Bluetooth). I love it, and the Tach (and all my gauges) work and almost exactly match the 123i IPhone app display. The features are awesome:- Tunable advance curves. Multiple File load/save + Live Analog Adv. Display (Track /Street Tune) Tune “on the fly” from Bluetooth app, but only +/- of advance. You have to edit the curve(s) and reload with engine off to make permanent changes. Tunable Vacuum map + Live Analog Vac. Display (in Hg) Max RPM setting (dizzy enforces by random spark cut) Tach - (from Dizzy Analog display) GPS MPH (Digital display) Dizzy (~Battery after Ballast if installed) Analog Voltage /Amps Temp Analog (I assume this is engine compartment taken from Dizzy housing) Oh and Immobilizer with PIN. I previously used a “kill switch” that grounded the (-) side of the stock dizzy to do this. OK. It is a bit pricey- but I’ve been looking for these features without replacing the stock gauges. I replaced a Mallory electronic dizzy, but it had mechanical advance and the vacuum was diaphragm type. Changing advance curves involved changing weights in the Dizzy ?

That's the oil pressure sender

here's how @240260280z does his. when he's in a hurry muriatic acid works too. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

Thanks for this thread. I just followed that advice and my door does now line up pretty well now. I also have a tear at the front top of the door to fix again which I thought I'd finished but it's worth it!

I agree the fuel filter is a precautionary measure not a fix. It will save you from damaging your fuel pump which is expensive for an OEM one. If you see rust then your tank is failing. It will only get worst and became a hazard to a reliable vehicle. It will have to be cleaned eventually so do it next off season (winter). It’s actually a pain in the arse in my opinion. Don’t put BB’s in you tank either after pulling it to use a an agitation agent to break on the rust. You’ll never get them out. I met a guy first hand who did this and it was a nightmare. He had to cut a door into the tank to get all them out and then weld it back. He eventually dipped his tank in a trash can full of 5:1 diluted water and muriatic acid followed by an immediate rinse in baking soda bath to neutralize the acid and then he poured POR-15 in there. It’s a messy job for sure. I had mine professionally cleaned inside and out by a semi-truck radiator shop and it looks like new. Cost me $350. This a must do job to build a reliable car in my opinion. It’s just one of the things you need to do eventually on an old car. Here are pics of the inside and outside on my tank post cleaning and painting all done by the repair shop. Do it right the first time and save yourself time and hassles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Danger, Danger Will Robinson! I take no responsibility for my poor judgement. The pics I posted above are from a new project, a 77/280z but I would be willing to bet if you drilled out just the lower hinge holes you would have enough room to tuck the bottom of the door in that little bit you need. Just so you know, body shops do this sort of thing all the time.

There are a number of very good steering rack rebuild threads in the archives that go into detail on the procedure. When I rebuilt my 77 steering rack I used a slide hammer to remove the pinon shaft and upper bearing, the upper bearing and grease seal are still available and inexpensive, not sure about the lower bearing. As I remember, that white plastic plug was actually poured in to the rack as a melted liquid and holds and seals the rack and housing together, don't f--k with it. @zKars sacrificed the life of a steering rack to bring us that info

You could always Bosozoku it.

Interesting that it came with the 5 speed. The lein holder would just be the bank he borrowed the money from, right. Typical car loan. The bottom half is probably the "agreement to pay" with the buyer's signature, that the dealership keeps. Looks like Herbert was a government employee. Maybe military. GEICO insurance before they opened up to the general public.

One other thing to check after you have done all of the things mentioned above...tail light seals in particular. On the inside of the hatch, there is a vinyl wrapped trim piece that extends across the bottom back of the hatch. That trim piece needs to be flat and sealed with sealant to the hatch. Otherwise, fumes get sucked into the lock mechanism and in through breaks in the seal of this trim piece. Most of the time, in my experience, after 45 years of not being removed and re-sealed this trim piece is wavy and has many spots where there are air gaps. Last summer, a 72 that I had just rebuilt was filling the cabin with fumes. I had sealed every possible entry point and then it hit me that I had not re-sealed the hatch trim panel. Did that and no more exhaust fumes.

This would be fun too: Or if I had a three car garage:

My early 71 also had those almost useless knobs. I swapped in some seats from a 77 280Z, new foam and leather from Interior Innovations, and now have the flip forward option which is really nice for access to the jack and tools under the plastic hinged covers.

Waiting the Seattle summer to arrive ETA is July 4th. The Z is ready to roll out of storage.

Ready for spring!