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It's a slow day here, so how about we all join in for a second verse? Altos on the right, sopranos on the left. Well the first thing you know Jed's no longer a millionaire, Kinfolk said Jed burn that funky Zed and move away from here Said Californy is the place you ought to be So they loaded up the truck and moved to the Land of the Rust Free.. Zeds, that is. everywhere, no rust, no rot. Californy.

Come and listen to my story about a man named Jed A poor mountaineer but he had a brand new Zed And then one day he was drinkin' up some shine And said to himself I'm gonna make this car mine

Where the Bumpuses Italian? That crate was!

I got the starter put back together. Hopefully it works! Sure looks nicer.

So you're on the road at night cruisin' in your Z. Slowly you notice that your headlights are getting dimmer and dimmer. You check your ammeter or voltmeter and see that your system is in discharge mode. Oh crap. Belt fall off? I hope so. Nope, still there and tight. oh oh oreo... Well you got that "big" 60 AMP internally reg'ed ZX alternator just a few month's ago, but I guess it gave up the ghost. Trouble is you're in Podunk Kansas and the local AutoZone doesn't have one in stock and can't get one for four days. Now what? Me, I'd rather have a common alternator, one I can get anywhere. And I mean anywhere. About the only sane choice is the GM 10SI body alternator. I know I know, you're thinking, "this GM alternator thing has been discussed to death", well, yes, but if you go looking you will find a variety of GM alternators discussed and the mounting of them is a bit of a mess. Advantage 1: Available anywhere, Advantage 2: Cheap Advantage 3: Internally regulated, one wire. Advantage 4: Available from 100-140 amp. Electric fans, big lights, big stereo, no problem. Advantage 5: Available anywhere. Yeah, again. Mounting is pretty easy after you get past the first issue, ie that the lower alternator mount has to be modified. It has to be cut and drilled. Here is where to get one. I picked mine up from Mopac in Calgary for $134 CAD all taxes in It fits the stock space well, even uses a 8x1.25 bolt at the upper mount point. You need to cut the mount off to leave 1.75-1.8 inches remaining. The cut face must be flat and flush and square the mounting surface. The alternator position is determined by this face, it has to be decent. The drill out the 8x1.25 threaded hole to 3/8" through the whole thing. You'll need a 4.5 x 3/8 grade 8 bolt, washers to space it just perfect to match the plane of the water pump pulley, and a nut/lock. I used a 4L350 drive belt. 35 inches long. PS, I have one of these in my Z and 510. Don't leave home without. Here is where to get one if you're the on-line type: https://www.performance-world.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=360520 I got mine at Mopac in Calgary for $135 CAD all taxes in. Show Chrome polish was $10 more. Yes really. Cutting, facing and drilling those brackets properly is a bit tricky without a mill. I have a couple of spares if you want one. I can wip them up in 15 min. Or send me yours. All I'm missing here i year/make\model spec to tell the young'en behind the counter when you need to find one in Podunk Kansas. (I've been there, its not so bad...)

I had a rad shop "boil" a tank twice with no success. They didn't want to try anything else other than their vat. I used Muriatic acid and it did the trick but it tends to start rusting again really fast unless you neutralize it quickly. If the feed and return lines are clogged, paint thinner works well also.

Tanks Inc and Holley sell great in-tank pump solutions. There are others, do a bit of searching. I like one of the Holley setups as it comes with their Hydromat product that acts like the world's best fuel sponge in the bottom of the tank. Look up the Holley 12-130

Thanks, I have read that write-up and want to avoid all the added wires/relays and oil pressure sensor under the hood. I think with the referenced controller, at the worst, I would have to run one wire to the coil. The rest would be existing right behind the radio.

I remember some of those threads. I think that my motor mounts are Anchor brand, from Oreilly auto. There are others. Brand was a question. Mine had screwed up threads on the studs.

File that end off that doesn't go into the hole on the cars side. O into a D and they'll drop in. If I'm thinking what you're saying. If not I'm arse-suming.

Thats my thought too. All they do is align (I assume (arse of u and me)). Weird not able to say as s as one word here

Found it...

I remember some discussion a couple of years back about mounts not lining up

Thanks for that Cliff. I was on my phone and can barely navigate the site from there. Much less do the required searching and posting...

Got the booster out over the weekend and sent it off to be rebuilt. I hope to have it back by Memorial Day Weekend. The master cylinder was not leaking any fluid, but I don't trust it anymore. Going to replace it. Also ordered new master and slave clutch cylinders. Gonna head to the DIY garage in Baldwin Hills, CA to do that in a couple weeks. Thanks everyone for the info, I'll update when the job is complete.

My favorite is CantechZ's. A bunch more here... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=H0HcXJOqDI6Y_Qb3loT4Dg&q=cantechz+hubcap+classiczcars.com&oq=cantechz+hubcap+classiczcars.com&gs_l=psy-ab.3...24018.24018..25642...0.0..0.111.111.0j1......0....1..gws-wiz.xo5NNLcslzM

They must have installed the American Standard upgrade kit on that Z. For the neighbours.... reminds me of a movie:

Finally got the ka trans. This is a low mileage (500) miles trans. Been sitting on the shelf since 1989. I found it on some parts website. Vapor and some zinc and it’s looking amazing. Bell housing mods are being done Emerish racing.

Gavin , your FD has a set of gages on top of the dashboard, cool ! I will show you my Nissan SUV has a additional gages too . Blue , you did find the pictures, thanks posting them again . You see the ‘ Z flag ‘ on the targa bar . Kats

Just some pics, we have done some major head work which will discussed soon. Also upgrading the rear stub axles to 260z. More info soon.

Yes.

Targa would have been fun!

These rooftop pictures of prototypes in 1968 certainly had high-back seats and a refined interior. The black wheel in the targa and the the centre console are different. Copy cats in 69:

Kats I'm so glad the dashboard turned out the way it did, the early S30Z dash is a timeless design and still looks fantastic today. I'm yet to see a more exciting instrument cluster in a car ever! My FD RX-7 is close, but I still love the trio of center gauges and think they really add to the sporty feel and the deep tach/speed-o-meter binnacles are the best look in front of the driver. Ergonomically it may not be the best by today's standards but aesthetically I still love it. I see aftermarket accessories for the FD RX-7 to give the 3 gauges to the left of the driver. Even my Stagea 260RS has the trio of gauges in the middle. So I really think it's a timeless look emulated by many all these years later. FWIW, I hate the way it was replicated in the 350z (Z33) / 370z (Z34), it doesn't look cohesive with the dash, like the early cars did.

She is in. Gosh I hope it works nicely and I didn’t screw up! I really like how the half shafts hades turned out.

I paid $395.00 without the blue tooth adapter. Same vendor did the same conversion earlier this year on a Wonder Bar radio for 62 vette. This gives me a completely stock look with both AM/FM search and ability to attach my iPhone to play Pandora or stored music or pod casts. Or attach iPod..etc. Capable of driving four speakers without an amp. I currently have speaker kick panels with Tweeter mounted in the Air Vents for directional control. Planning to add an 8 inch amplified sub under passenger seat and two rear speakers.

Here's one with the mother, so proud.

How can you improve on this when it's already PERFECT

Ugly, yuckkey poo.m