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I still think its the AFM that needs adjusting.

Could be engine oil or transmission fluid. Smell it. Both require transmission removal though. Might as well do them both. Might as well replace your throwout bearing while it's out. And the clutch is probably worn. You'll be down by the slave cylinder too. And its hose. The transmission mount is probably worn out. Pilot bushing. Probably have to remove the exhaust system, check the gasket surface. Might break a stud removing the pipe so that could be an issue. If you have to remove the exhaust manifold you'll have the intake manifold off. Might as well replace the injector seals. Don't forget......

5th gear in the early 5-speeds is definitely an overdrive gear - for lowering RPM and getting better fuel economy at cruise. Spirited driving (and probably top speed) will be done in the lower 4 gears. Sounds like your differential will be stock which would be a 3.36 R180. My 260Z came equipped with the same differential and I used it for years behind my L28ET and ZX close ratio 5-speed before swapping to a 3.54 R200. The L-series engines used in the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, and 280ZX (1970-1983) had a similar block config and any transmission mounted to one can be mounted to any other.

white trash?

Hi all, I'm new here. Just got a pretty clean 1973 240z. The car has an L28/N47 280z motor and head in it, carbureted. Drives really nice. My question is can I bolt in a 280z 5-speed? Are any special parts needed at either the engine end or the shaft end? What about the interior shifter box? Guidance and experience are appreciated. Thanks.

That's what she said.

@Mike thank you, great forum here. I am the 3rd owner, and I have receipts all the way back to the purchase of the car. Other than the wheels, I'm not going to get too crazy with this one. (I have other cars for that, lol).

Welcome to the club. Clean looking Z you picked up!

That's Honey Boo Boo's car!

The lower geared r180 is square looking. Taller r200 is more rounded. I put a wide 5 speed with the oe r180 and really like it. 70 to 80 mph on the interstate is 2,000 to 2,500 rpms. That's the only time i use fifth. It's like having the oe 4 speed around town. Great looking car btw. Glad you joined the forum. Lots of info and even more nice folks. Cliff

if you want to go along for the ride on my adventures in swap on a 280

so now I have to get a spare camshaft for my spare head for my spare engine....Paranoia is a difficult thing to overcome. better still, Camshaft phobia..

might as well... :) in all seriousness the might as well does happen, so you really have to assess your willingness to leave with a small leak. Just remember its a old car and the might as wells can really add up, including the follow up can or worms (broken studs etc....). So are you a leave it be, enjoy driving more that fixing, or a drop of oil is going to make you nutz. OK to be either but you need to decide. Also you will find that doing the work yourself is not just to save money but to make sure its done right unless you have a mechanic that really knows what they are doing and how to work on old cars. I find the biggest issue is not breaking bolts. Technique helps but eventually you are going to break one in a hard to get at location that can up the work factor a lot. You are going to have to do the clutch eventually anyway, it will chatter and slip etc... That is a good time to force you to fix other leaks. Just don't be surprised if you end up making some work for yourself along the way to fixing something easy (like breaking a bolt on the t stat housing when replacing a t stat...). I like my induction bolt heater, pricey but comes in handy.

Funny that in this case two wrongs actually made a right. I missed where you told who that guy was that did the final tuning and problem solving. He seemed to know what he was doing for sure. Those washers are called yokes. People have problems with them often, even the header manufacturers don't seem to understand that they need thick flanges on their headers to match the intake manifold flange thickness. Lots of bad header designs out there. Good video, worth a watch.

I think I spot the see-ment pond out yonder behind the Little Tykes used car lot. Dennis

Looks like the o-ring is still around. Not sure what transmission you have but they're probably all the same one. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control Here's a spendy one. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-32857-14600-Cap-O-Ring/dp/B01LY9R00E

It's gotta be the AFM

Harbor freight has a transmission floor jack for $99.00. it makes it so that you can remove the transmission by yourself with the car about 2 feet up on jackstands. I did it this past winter to replace the clutch and rear main seal. It helps to have an extra set of hands to line it up for re installation, however. It becomes pretty apparent just how bad the rear seal can be leaking when the transmission is out of the way. It's also a convenient time to replace the oil pan gasket(the transmission out of the car, that is). https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

That's Ellie Mays husband. Imagine what Mrs. Drysdale thinks about that yard?

I had a rad shop "boil" a tank twice with no success. They didn't want to try anything else other than their vat. I used Muriatic acid and it did the trick but it tends to start rusting again really fast unless you neutralize it quickly. If the feed and return lines are clogged, paint thinner works well also.

The thing about the mounts, including the trans and diff, is that they have a lot of rubber. So I didn't feel bad putting a little bit of tension on them. I levered things together and bolted them down. They settle and distort over the years anyway, and move a lot when in use.

Same, cept my car is orange and dirty

Sorry to hear that, but understandable. We will all miss your presence my friend...

If you can break away long enough, we could caravan to Nashville for 2020.

I guess I should also post this here.