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Thanks again to all for weighing in, it's great to have some like-minded folks to help get perspective on the situation. Had a great chat w/Patcon and am feeling a little more optimistic. At this point I'll probably pull off and discard all the parts that are beyond repair and then see what it'll take in time/$$ to get her driveable again. Once I get a required parts list I'll post up and see what's available to purchase from the CZC community. Stay tuned...

So I was able to do a bit of trading with someone and ended up with a very nice canadian brochure, as well as a May 70 owners manual which will work well or my car. Included was a 510 canadian one as well.

872F2D80-DA0C-48B4-8F79-1E2BA3AE88C5.MOV A160km drive done and no leaks....yet. Carbs and linkage have also been synced, valves adjusted etc. Now it really goes, made a great improvement.

It's just a flesh wound.

It will be interesting to see what the 1970 "Franklin Mint" 240Z will bring when it goes up on BaT soon. Perhaps a six-figure car?

IMG_0013-1.HEIC

I picked up this nice tri-fold canadian brochure, looks to be a 1971

Much better!

From humble beginnings — there wasn’t a lot of metal in the first place: https://attackingtheclock.com/2017/01/04/bondo-magician-meets-mad-max/#more-151

Grab your son and give him a big hug. It sounds like he did some good things to try and avoid the accident. It could have been much worse. No airbags would have injured them a lot more if that other truck hit him head on. Let him know that speeding across a grating system (like the on on the Ballard bridge) needs some extra care. Lower speed and no horseplay. Buy the kid a used Kia because they will likely get into accidents as they are learning. My kid won’t get access to the Z until he has experience. ? Good luck with the rebuild or whatever you decide to do next.

Do you have a volt meter other than the one in your car. If you do attach it to the battery. You should have around 12.4 - 12.6. Start the car increase RPM to over 1500 and check the voltage. You should get 13.8 to 14.1. If not it may be a bad alternator.

Maybe just the windshield and part of the body?

Ka is in. But I cut down a driveshaft had it balanced and powdercoated. I just used some measurements from posts but they are super off from my z. I really want a 4 post lift. Working under a car on jack stands sucks

I have this exact header and rest of system on my car. Fitted last month. $300 is an ABSOLUTE bargain!!! You need to ensure your engine produces enough gas flow to make the most of it. I run an L28 with 205 PSI dynamic comp, Ported E88 head with big valves and mild cam producing 230+ BHP on SUs and this header. I went from the MSA header with a straight pipe 2.5" back to a turbo muffler, to this one with the centre resonator and his straight through silencer. The difference is that it's a LOT less noisy (read more bearable on the motorway) below 3.5krpm then it gets seriously angry above. The equal length long primaries and the longer than the MSA secondaries are great for scavenging and torque. Another club member in the U.K. Has put the same system on a nearly stock L26 with a mild Schneider cam and he has a lovely smooth progressive power curve. You are ultimately better asking Sean, but on two very different street applications, it has worked perfectly.

I saw his web page is down today. I paid 1144.00 + 230.00 shipping. I think his current prices are higher.. I believe his headers are in the $500 range before shipping. This Header is basically new and never been torqued down. I always offer satisfaction guarantee on any part I sell. Shipping in US is probable less than 100. I am guessing closer to $60. It should be direct fit to his full system.

That means the door hinge area probably moved a little. Like 1/8 or less. Just from the pictures, I would say it's fixable all day long. I really think the front structure can be pulled and straightened. Would probably want a new radiator support though. Like I said, let me know if you need any parts C

OK. I thought the Dyno screens was rpm but it was kph so that clarifies it.

Wow, I know you've put in more than a ton blood sweat and tears into that car, but the kids are more important and I'm glad they're OK. After owning a car that a lot of folks would have passed by (and did) I believe that anything is repairable. It just depends how much money, time and effort one can find to put into it. I hope your Z is fixable at some level for you. Long live the Green Z's!

At this point I view sub 500s as $100k cars. So 22k for a not disaster project seems pretty reasonable. You do bring up a good point about some of the missing pieces that could be hard to replace. I always wanted a low number car but I have pretty much gotten over that because I want driver cars. The sub 500 cars are quickly becoming too rare to be practical to put miles on.

That's a bummer. Now you can get another and start over. Those HEIC files must be for phones. They don't come through on a computer. Edit - my Windows 7 computer anyway.

I guess it's a bit of a challenge getting this just right. Can't make it too shiny, don't want it too dull. I did get the manifolds installed last night. Nice to be working back on the engine. I temporarily placed the balance tube and flat tops on just to see what things will be looking like. The balance tube is a bit of a challenge. That brass plug on top is pretty hard to get out....even with the vice grips. Will have to try the fire and ice method on this and see if that helps to loosen it. Also broke off a fitting on the underside of the tube so I will need to drill and tap that out. I had to re-tap the threads for the air galley. Those threads are M14 X 1.5 for anyone interested. The good thing is that my water tube and exhaust tube for the EGR are in nice shape. I did a quick fit check on those. I will install as much of the tubing as I can before I actually install the carbs.

I've looked into that. I think ill just do a type 1 240z dam. Thanks!

Unquestionably a nice example (and very professionally presented), so deserving of a premium price. Still, it's a 73, where prevailing wisdom (now obsolete?) has said that these should be discounted relative to the 70-71 models. Overall, I think we're seeing a solid trend towards 'good' Z's moving up in value by $5K - $10K compared to a year ago. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-91/

Yesterday I placed my final bid of $17K for this car. Even though I have always wanted a 1969 production year 240Z, I just can't justify spending any more than that. When you consider that it no longer has its original numbers-matching engine and it also no longer has its original hood, rear hatch clear glass and some other items. If the car weren't missing all of these items, I would definitely go higher since it looks to be such a solid car. Also if you consider the restoration costs on top of all this, it just doesn't make sense for me at this time, especially since I already have two '71 240Z projects waiting in the wings.

Last night was not good. My son was driving my daughter home from the movies in my Z, going across the Ballard bridge (drawbridge w/metal grating in the rain) when a pickup pulled into his lane. He swerved into oncoming traffic to avoid the truck, then cut back into his lane and the car went into a spin, crashing into the guardrail. Thankfully both kids walked away unscathed but I'm afraid it might be the end of the road for the Z... IMG_0013.HEIC IMG_0017.HEIC