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Suggestions for wheel alignment shops on SO Ca? Looking for one that caters to 240/280 Datsuns. Thanks ..Ron

Ditto. Been thinking of John often lately and realized it has been over 3 years. RIP.

Ok now I can join the removed head bolts without breaking any club (already a member of the spindle pin removal club). I used my old hand powered impact tool working from the outside towards the center, to motivate them. They all succumb to a combo of that and a 1/2 breaker bar. I got the nice satisfying squeak on all but the center long. it was kinda stuck and did not release after one turn like the others. I presume some corrosion on that one, but it came out. I did remove the 2 small bolts that clamp to the timing chain cover. I will prob leave the exhaust manifold on to aid in unsticking the head. Waiting on the timing chain jam tool before removing the timing chain. I set it to TDC on #1 and noted the shinny chain link is right over the #3 mark on the gear. The slot is centered in the V on the viewing window. took pics so I can reassemble. I am reserving judgement on how far I want to go. I want to get the head off and examine for cracks/leaks/warps. I have a new head gasket on the way (felpro). IF all looks good I will prob just clean up the head and reinstall to see if that stops the exhaust gas in rad issue. I did another video (did not post) where you can clearly see the yellow tint in the test fluid. If the head not cracked but warped I will prob fully tear down the engine and take to a machine shop for hot tank and head work. Have them check the bores, of not bad, ball hone and new rings, bearings etc... I guess if the head is cracked I will do some research on my excellent looking MN47 head. IIRC dished pistions and maybe a 2 millimeter (double thick) head gasket to get the compression where I want it. I do not want to have to run premium fuel.

Thank you Charles. You confirmed my suspicion. I will try to find a 280z fender.

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What Mark said... What kind of oil did you use to fill the damper tubes on the SU's when you put them on? It sounds like a classic case of too thin of an oil or a damper dashpot not working properly. Can you elaborate a little on the "chatter" you mentioned with the pistons? Any chance you can take a video of that?

Aren't you missing the reinforcing plates on the edges? Maybe they got rid of them with the F54 block. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block

This pic jars my memory

Maybe that is the new 2020 Z and they have it dressed up in camouflage so now one can guess what it looks like until the big reveal.?

New gasket and fasteners

To answer some of your questions directly... The initial mechanical setting of the float level is just to get into the ballpark. The sight glass is the real test. The desired level does depend on the carb design though. What year are you working on? 73 or 74? Can you post a pic or two of the power valves? That's another easy way to know for sure. However, without even seeing the carbs, I suspect the fuel level should be right at the dot in the middle of the window and your level is way too high. Tips for cracking the power valve open? Not really. The gaskets hold tight and can make it difficult to separate the wafer stack. Other than brute force, I don't have any suggestions. And testing the carb off the car? I don't have any way to do that. If it was running great one day, and then the next day it wouldn't start at all, I'm not convinced that it was a carb problem in the beginning. But now that you've opened them up and let the magic out, there might be one now. Did you try starting it by holding your foot down a little on the pedal while you cranked it?

I guess it's a bit of a challenge getting this just right. Can't make it too shiny, don't want it too dull. I did get the manifolds installed last night. Nice to be working back on the engine. I temporarily placed the balance tube and flat tops on just to see what things will be looking like. The balance tube is a bit of a challenge. That brass plug on top is pretty hard to get out....even with the vice grips. Will have to try the fire and ice method on this and see if that helps to loosen it. Also broke off a fitting on the underside of the tube so I will need to drill and tap that out. I had to re-tap the threads for the air galley. Those threads are M14 X 1.5 for anyone interested. The good thing is that my water tube and exhaust tube for the EGR are in nice shape. I did a quick fit check on those. I will install as much of the tubing as I can before I actually install the carbs.

This guy makes some good looking stuff, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z260z280z-Left-Right-Outer-Bonnet-Hinge-Panels/293046290106

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-Prototype-Radiator-Support-Panel-Right-Side/293082385764?hash=item443d124d64%3Ag%3AWxgAAOSweqNc1d-k&LH_ItemCondition=4