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Here's a gathering of 1960s/70s American sports cars: I think there's a Corvette behind one of those pillars...

The mark of a true Craftsman is one who cares about quality more than time and money. Are your expectations too high? Not at all. I suspect that the PO or his mechanic had never done quality work and didn't understand the concept of Craftsmanship and pride in a job well done.

mine is on the way scheduled for 8/62019 delivery!! Tracking it left Tracy CA fedex today

I know this is not everyone’s idea of what an engine bay should look like, but I am really liking how it’s coming together. For a weekend cruiser/show car, this will achieve my driving goals as well as my aesthetic idea of what a performance restomod should look like.

Yep, and we all have matching jackets, leather of course. Our slogan is "No air bags, we die like real men".

anyone out there 3D printing the 77-78 steering column cover clamshell it’s impossible to find the bottom piece and seems like it could be printed or at least something close to similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks to all! i got all bearings removed. I did end up pressing thru the end caps on a couple, but was able to still get the rest of the cap off. im going start another thread about the spindle pin.

I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.

the final test is to "briefly" start the car with the valve cover off, it will sling oil everywhere so take nessasary precaution. "nuke it from obit its the only way to know for sure"

I helped a friend list and sell his Porsche 912 on BAT last December. The BAT folks were helpful with suggestions on how to best present the car with photos and video. The car was located in Southern California and the eventual BAT buyer was from England. Once the auction ends, the seller collects the cash and all shipping, border customs, and additional costs are on the buyer. In this case, the buyer and his son flew over to pay and collect the 912. They then drove it to the port in Long Beach and put it on a boat to England. It was a fairly hassle free process for my friend and he got much more than he had anticipated selling it for locally. Sometimes, self proclaimed experts on BAT post ugly comments, but his auction sale went quite well. Detailed pictures are a must and a video of the vehicle doing a cold start is often requested. Dennis

The symptom you are describing is consistent with the flaw I have seen with the older one. The soldered joints become loose and then the pipes move around, fall off, etc. I would use the newer one.

Mine is a 9/72 JDM FZ-L it had the top one on it. However it was broken, one of the pipes connected was loose. The the car came with a spare but it was also broken. The casting quality on the junction sections is quite poor, I ended up machining the faces flat (with a router and a jig). I tried to resolder the pieces. Reasonable / workable job. However someone gave me one of the lower ones. May use that instead.

Hi , I hadn’t realized my blue 240Z’s air pump got the vent wrongly since I have got the car in 2000 . The vent must be facing like this .My orange 240Z told me which way it should be . And I confirmed it by service manual . Kats

If you rebuild the halfshafts. Replace the hose clamp with the original aluminium straps or a wide sectioned plastic Ty-rap. That hose clamp will add to any balance issues you might had. It won't be a lot, and you probably won't notice it, but all these small vibrations add up.

I think it looks fantastic! The red "highlights" are a great splash of color in there too. South of you down here in Utah where me and my 240Z hang with the local hot rodders they have a saying... "If the part don't go, chrome it."

They actually have a little bit of carbon buildup starting on the exposed metal at the ends of the threads. Where it's cold. The insulators look good and so do the grounding straps. You can see some ash on the grounding straps and a little color on the insulators. They'll be nice and tan in a few hundred miles.

Cool. As it should be. I wonder if he saw this thread? It's a nice car. It just isn't original paint.

They are all even but very lean. The easy way to enrich is to put a resistor in series with the temp sensor. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html °C °F Resistance -30 -22 20,300 Ω to 33, 000 Ω -10 -14 7,600 Ω to 10,800 Ω +10 50 3,250 Ω to 4,150 Ω +20 68 2,250 Ω to 2,750 Ω +50 122 740 Ω to 940 Ω +80 176 290 Ω to 360Ω

There are a number of cars that come through Copart as "normal wear". I think people use it for it's national exposure to dealers. Do a search one day for 1920-1970 cars and look at all the nice hot rods that show up

I think that we're just disagreeing on levels. It's a matter of degree. Tolerating and running clean aren't the same. Many of us have felt that our engines run just fine but they won't pass emissions. The system tolerated the dirty coolant sensor connections or high fuel pressure or whatever the problem was. I like what wheee! is doing but there is a small bit of irony in having a catch can to keep the oil out but possibly running rich at time and carboning up the combustion chamber. But, it's a matter of what you want. The whole point of EFI was to be cleaner. Carbs worked fantastically, but were dirty. Good old Holley double pumpers, squirting loads of extra fuel whenever you hit the pedal. I can nasalize the smell...

We hop on over to HybridZ.org once in a while, but classiczcars.com is our home ?

It's alive. IT'S ALIVE!