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Got the dash, I think you guys will be pleased with your dash.

I love the simplicity of my Unisyn and it seems to me if you check and double check, it is pretty darned accurate. Just my opinion.

Got a call from Fedex, should be delivered tomorrow, anybody interested in seeing an unboxing video? I have a spare dash, I could strip the old bunged up dash pad off, just to make sure I know how this one should fit (a dry run if you will). That way I could do the test fitting in the comfort of A/C indoors.

All done, just need to get it back and then my work starts!

Okay Boss, I have one headed your way. 3 more to go.

That maybe the ugliest Z I've seen so far but the bar isn't too low. With the values increasing like they are these ridiculous builds are over IMO. No more V8 conversions either thank goodness.

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Welcome Nat0z. And thanks for the kind words! I'd love to see more of your stuff too - sounds like you are quite a bit further down this journey than I am. It's summer here so progress has been slow, but I will be back at it furiously towards the end of September. So check back for more pics ...

Jai says she's seen a puddle under the car in the past. I'll tell her about the drain line. That sounds like the source of the water. Thanks

this is the car with the after market AC? its hot and humid this time of year in Georgia, I was thinking condensate somehow accumulating. Would account for it feeling cold. Maybe ask her if the AC is working and if it is, does she see a puddle of water under the car when stopped but AC on? I had the same problem but it was related to rain, turned out to be a poorly sealing window gasket. The fix was to seal with some butyl (the gasket was fairly new, just did not seal well). The FSM calls for sealing as well, but there was no sealant used (I could not see any evidence of it).

A customized G nose 2+2, extremely rare. He may have solved the exhaust fume problem though.

The drill size for tapping a 5mm hole is only 4.3mm (17/100") out of a thickness of 14.7mm so will have 5.2mm of material remaining on either side of the hole. thinking just center the hole between any two stud holes, center the hole across the thickness. An open Q is how well the material will put up with tapping, ending up with good threads. Since the vacuum stub will remain in the insulator, could just install it with some loctite. Going to experiment with the insulators because they're easier to replace if screwed up, they're straightforward to fixture in the drill press vise, don't want to remove the intake manifold.

I got 6AN to 1/8 NPT fittings to replace the barb fittings on the TBI adapters. I could not put the back throttle body fitting at the angle I wanted because it was hitting on the base of the adapter before it was to the point I wanted, so I compromised. It looks a little kludged, but it doesn't leak. (If it looks stupid but it works, it's not stupid.) I also purchased a Walbro GSL395 fuel pump. This fuel pump is rated up to 20 PSI and is targeted for GM TBI systems. In other words, it's a good application. In addition, it takes male 10mmx1 fittings, so I got it with 6AN to 10mm fittings. After that I put 90 degree elbows on the inlet and outlet and 5/16 to 6AN fittings on the elbows to go to the fuel lines. I was able to orient the pump so the inlet is on the bottom, like it should be. I got the fuel pressure set, and I got a smooth idle, though it is at 1200 RPM. Now I have to test. That might have to wait until Tuesday, though.

Sorry for the delay. I actually had to fumble around to figure out how to do this in Windows paint. It's truly unbelievable how incompetent I am when it comes to operating simple software. Now that I look at it, it does resemble a floor mat of some sort.

I also got the welds from yesterday cleaned up and painted. Not sure what the standard is here but I did a couple of coats of SEM self-etching primer followed by several coats of Rustoleum Flat Black Enamel. Should do the job!

Gibbs oil, http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/

Funny - my buddy has a twinmax that I borrow for the annual tuning on my carbed Duc. Never thought to use it on the SU’s though. Would certainly be an improvement over the unisyn in accuracy (super sensitive) but I have had a unisyn in my toolbox for almost 30 years (bought it for my 64 Corvair convertible RIP) and always associated the unisyn with cars and the Twinmax with bikes...

Looks great in photos and excellent description. I think you are going to sell fast.

Pretty impressive, ive just read the whole 9 pages so far. These parts out of the UK are great too, but only needed some square weld nuts added and they would be perfect. Ive got the front rad panel blank on CAD and have laser cut The prototypes (4x pieces from memory) Amongst other parts like front rails, full- length floor rails, lower rad and engime & gearbox mounts, std and RB versions. New here to classic Z cars, but long time Z man.... Keep up the artful creative, driven, no-doubt by the need for solid metal. Cheers Nat0 Oh and PS the 240z front frame. Rails taper outboard by only 5mm per side where as the 260z from about 75 taper out 10mm per side. As they run a wider & taller radiator. Youll also find their lower rad support drops another 15 or 20mm also. Had to Cad both of them up as i have a bitsa 240 with a 260z front repair which needed a hybrid panel made to finish the structural parta. Fyi.

Stay away from the flapper discs as they tend to grind the parent sheet metal more than desirable. A baced sanding disc 2-3" on a 90 degree die grimder, or a 4-5" backed disc on a grinder, and lern to keep it flat-ish, the biggest trap is to grind till the bead is flush, but as the weld cools it shrimks and pops up the attached sheet, leaving a lil valley on edge of the weld. The other absolute gun tool is a mini 18-25mm wide belt sander, but best if you have experience in using it, otherwise you can dig worse than with a flapper. I see qualified boilermakers and sheet metal guys get it wrong all the time in my lime of work, and many a times need to guide/coach them, which they hate, but love when they get it right, and i dont have to reject their work..... It does pay to get better at the welding, and this will come with time and experience. Nat0

A 4" grinding disc followed by 60 grit disc and if it is visible 120 disc. If what needs grinding is in a tight spot then the die grinding bits.

If you're a connoisseur of factory-style 'Overfenders' mounted on the wrong side of the car and - in any case - far too low, you'll love this.