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I'm also working on car #503 right now. This car is in absolutely amazing condition. It's is the most original rust-free car I've seen and I've worked on hundreds of them. Unfortunately, it had a repaint many years ago that is not holding up so I'm getting the car ready to go to paint. This car is in such original condition, except for some hoses and hose clamps, I thought I would post it in case someone was restoring one and needs to see any original details. I'd be glad to post any pictures. This car even has the original water pump.

Here is a label I found under the seat as well.

These numbers aren't making sense to me, your compression numbers are quite consistent, that's good (did you also do a wet test?), your leakdown numbers say 5/6 are working at 80% but we already know those two cylinders are holding good compression. Sometimes when doing a leakdown test as the air pressure is dumped into the cylinder the piston will move down and the intake valve will open a bit and it shows as a leak. I'm going to suggest that the bad numbers for 5&6 don't really exist because your compression numbers prove that they can't exist. So it seems the only two things to diagnose is the puff of blue smoke and what looks like a rich condition on the sparkplugs and pistons.

Switching to carbs is an interesting proposition that I’ve considered. Good and bad I guess. At least the car will drive post EMP attack of you have carbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picked my car up from body shop prison. Just did touch ups on rocker panels and rear valence. STOKED !!!!

@Av8ferg You're wanting a 240. If you haven't already spent a bunch on your efi buy these carbs. You'll have more comfortable 280 with 240 performance. I'll find rossiz'z thread on doing just that. It's a fantastic read with good results as planned. It's on my laptop, sorry but I'm using my phone atm. In my opinion that's the draw to 240s. Those SUs, when dialed in, are awesome. Totally different than efi to me.

A nylok style nut could also work just fine. As long as the taper of the joint is properly seated, the chances of it coming apart is pretty much 0. Remember how much work it was to get that joint apart. I have about 20 of those stock castle nuts I've saved for some darn reason, but hardly practical to mail you one...

Could be that the guage in the dash wasn't reading right. It seems possible that the oil pressure was never really too high. When you installed the gauge on the engine block you disconnected the dash gauge. The high oil pressure reading might be a coincidental distraction from the real problem.

Lets start with causes of high pressure Problem with the oil relief Bearing clearances Excessive pump output What is the engine history? Have you ever run any oil flush through it? If you haven't, don't! My first concern would be junk building up in the bearings driving up oil pressure. Oil relief could also be a problem

Some more photos of it when it was listed on ebay last fall. Odd mirrors on the fenders. Did it come with the original seats or the later style shown in the ad photos? Was the exterior side molding trim just stuck on with adhesive or did it it leave holes in the sheetmetal?

Looks great. But whatever process you're using to install new bushings, I think you should get the coating out of the bushing holes first. Even if you're using a hydraulic press.

Bummer. So how long until you're back and have a Z?

It looks like the powder coating got on the inside surface where the bushing goes, if you are using a hydraulic press to set the bushing then it probably won't be a problem, if you are doing it manually with a vice then you might want to scrape the coating off. It is a very tight fit.

Details of throttle hand throttle linkage at pedal and cable routing would be nice to see

More photos of every thing at every angle please. btw here is 504:

Found this while looking through a older repair manual, check out the engine number

Canada got the federal... I should have that model.

Cross member, control arms, TC rods, sway bar and some other parts freshly sandblasted and powder coated. Ready for new bushings tomorrow and hopefully get the front end reinstalled over the weekend.

Regarding how tight or close to "all the way in" the nut has to go, what matters is if the nut contacts the strut body top and locks it in place BEFORE the nut bottoms out. Nothing worse than a loose shock cartridge rattling around and driving you crazy. So as long as most of the threads are engaged, and the cartridge is locked in place, you're good.

The Z31 is finally back on. The painted finished the Bronco so now mine is 9-5 until finished. Should be by the end of the month. The short block is assembled too. He just need to button up a few things so should be picking that up as well. The side skirts didn't fit as well as I would want on the 86 body. It used a rubber gasket that is unsightly and impossible to find so he trimmed the sideskirt a tad to be perfectly smooth and then welded in some metal to close all skirt to body gaps while retaining the OE door gap.

Not sure if this is real or a replica, but it’s sexy as hell!

Thanks 240260280 and all, such great responses. I only wish that I had paid closer attention to these details when my car was new (who knew?). Here are a couple of pics/white paint dot on fuel pump center cap screw, and red paint mark on throttle control set screw along with small green mark on same.

Carl, I ended up with my stash of Holy Grail parts through pure serendipity. For the past 30 or so years I've kept in touch with Nissan/Datsun parts availability through careful tea reading combined with help from the guys at my local dealer with whom I've had a relationship for almost 40 years.

All done, just need to get it back and then my work starts!

You are in there now and they don't cost too much.

I have one of the 'Radio Delete' trays too, and have sometimes heard them called a 'Sunglasses Tray' in Japan. It seems to work as well for that purpose as any other:

240/260/280 here you go