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I am a bad boy. Have not updated this thread for far too long. Shame shame. I'm nearing the end of the voyage. It has been frought with problems, big surprise, but the car is now running well enough to get it to my friends shop for a dyno tune next week. Plan on taking it to Vancouver for their All Japanese show on the 25th. You'll have to be satisfied with a few pictures for now.

Ok I am really starting to believe I did in fact jump the gun on my motor, I went through everything while it was apart and all I could find is a small leak on the exhaust valves for 5 & 6, just like you said @Mark Maras. I did a quick lapping on them and it stopped the leak. I then cleaned the head up and put it all back together. It now runs great and the oil pressure is right where it should be. Nothing wrong with the carbs as well so if in fact it just decided to run really rich for a while I have no idea what caused it.

I don't know Cliff, that's going to make you sound... respectable. Do you think you can pull it off?

I have to commend your initiative in just diving in and taking action. Obviously you know a lot about how things work. I've found myself well down a path I wondered about taking before. If it happens again at least you'll know what it's not. Maybe.

There should be a thin metal sleeve on the plastic post on the back of the emblem, take the sleeves off the post and insert them into the holes then install the emblem into those sleeves. You can also use double stick trim tape.

I like the fuel pressure transducer. Great safety addition. BTW, I have been appropriately chastized and have updated my thread. Thanks for reminding me.

Cliff, I’m officially assigning you as the forum librarian. You seem to be able to find all old threads at the drop of a hat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh that's amazing! How did I not think of that? (One track mind, that's how...) Thanks for that! Makes it a bit trickier to compute accurately with a worm. I don't think it matters how may turns of the screw the gear is made from, its got to do with the spacing or tooth angle or something too hard to compute or measure. Guess I'll have to do the work and turn a tranny and count tail shaft vs speedo rotations. Not like I don't have a few trannies laying around... Now if I can just remember what color gear I put in my tranny.... white I think.

Now that it is back together, I was warming up the engine to see if any tune adjustments were needed. After I got out the timing light and a few tools I figure that should be warm enough. I start to check carb balance and I say to myself, doesn't seem hot enough yet. Why is it taking so long? I look inside and the temp gauge reads 1/2 so Its good. As it turns out the ceramic coated headers really do contain a lot of the heat. Very noticeable compared to the old cast iron set up. Pleased to know that.

My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.

Waiting for someone to comment on the distributor cap.... Had problems in three areas. 1. Ignition noise (COP) killing the USB communication with the car running. Solved with better lower noise COP's (Audi R8 coil packs). 2. The fancy onesix Industries distributor replacement that gives you a combo crank and cam angle sensor could not provide a stable signal that HAltech could trigger on reliably. At this moment with very little trouble shooting I'm pretty sure it's a combo of noise and improper reluctor gaps. I've gone to a better system of a Hall sensors and missing tooth wheel on the crank and a single hall sensor in the dizzy to give me cam position. I running full secquential. I didn't like having crank angle on the dizzy shaft anyway. There is play in that there shaft..... 3. My in-ability to tighten fasteners properly. Loose electrical connections especially. SIgh....

If you have a drill or drill press and some taps you might could make a tool to free it. Take a piece of steel schedule 40 pipe big enough to go all the way over the bolt and arm. Drill a hole in the pipe and tap it for a bolt, maybe 1/2" or 7/16". Make a hole on the opposite side for the wedge bolt to push out of. Slide it over the wedge bolt & arm and thread the "press" bolt into the pipe against the nut on the end of the wedge bolt to force it out Edit: Home depot has some black and galv sched 40 pipe. If it doesn't have to be too big of an id. I don't remember off the top of my head how big you would need. You might could just buy a close nipple the right size so you don't have to buy a long piece of pipe

It certainly is. Bunny Ears... (ish)

I am a Saran Wrap and Tin foil guy ?

I am designing up a coil bracket like the Blake one but uses nissan RB coils. This uses 2006 350z coils heads (Hitachi IGC0003 Ignition Coil) and spring. Then a boot from a 2005 Chrysler 300. They fit perfect.

The HVAC finish panel has 2 plastic dog ear tabs that slide onto (2) 8mm bolts that are on the outside of the metal frame of the control box. What might have happened over time is someone has removed that stuff before and when reinstalling misaligned the finish panel with the right side tab on the inside (instead of outside) of that metal frame putting the left side further to the left. You'll need to remove the 4 black screw holding the big outer trim piece, then pull off the slider knobs. The two 8mm bolts on either side will need a small wrench to get in there. You just need to loosen the bolts, not remove them, and the HVAC panel should just pull out to reposition it. One thing to look out for is that often those plastic tabs are broken and may need to be repaired which is not too difficult.

Jerry i am currently vacationing about 60 miles from ellensburg and will pass through there on Sunday. What did have in mind. PM me or text 206-300-614 eight

1968 BRE Baja Team:

I have a set still in the box I could sell you for $999.49 (less than $1000) ?