Leaderboard

I saw the shifter and suspected the same thing. That makes it even less valuable in my mind. I didn't even notice the roll bar. That is an endorsement for having one, if you going to turn your car upside down

I'm going to change my username to Tree Shaker.

Disconnect choke cables and push Nozzle (7) in figure below, up from the bottom. They are probably stuck down. The outside of the brass nozzle's tube usually gets gummy and dirty over time and binds in the Nozzle Sleeve(1) You can remove the Nozzle and clean with carb cleaner and a scotchbrite pad but watch out for the screw and washers holding it to the lift arm (shown below): w

One option if you have the original clock is to purchase a refurbished circuit board from https://www.zclocks.com/sale-items.html $60 shipped

BTW....You don’t have to disconnect the choke cables to pop up the nozzle......literally a 3 minute fix if that’s the problem and it sounds like it is. Just stick your hand under each carb and push up the nozzle....you’ll feel it pop up if that’s the problem.

Perfect. Now I have the full picture!

Yeah not going to lie, it was pretty disheartening paying that plus having it shipped across the country to find it is basically has to go to the junk yard. I can take some pictures of the turbo if anyone is interested in more details about it. Going to have to wait a bit to try and gather more cash to try again, hopefully better informed and with more luck this time.

I agree with Site and Blue. You can reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzle. You’ll feel it snap back. If it is hanging up, it’ll cause very erratic idle and will blacken your plugs on those three cylinders. You’ll have to do this every time you choke the engine. Those nozzles are famous for binding when linkages aren’t aligned perfectly.

I found this very interesting. The good oils in this test are expensive in the UK, if available at all, but it at least gave me values for zinc and phosphate levels I should have. (1400ppm+) I recently bought some eastwood additive and so looked it up, and it seems to have the right sort of amounts for a Z sump full. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html

I bought a motor that had half fuel half oil too. The head was nice and shiney under the valve cover. Had to rebuild the carbs. Did your's just start doing this? Something is out of adjustment. If not consider rebuilding. Just thought about something to check. Make sure your nozzles are moving up and down with the choke lever. They could be stuck in the down position. Your choke wires could be loose or out of whack. The flat linkage bar could be bent. The small hoses could be wrong and hardened preventing them from movement. A lot of "could be" on those SUs.

Try and buy it. I'm betting there are some parts from it that I want, too.

R12 is still out there, a shop should be able to get the real stuff. That is what is in mine. the replacements are often some kind of hydrocarbon (propane/butane) from the research I have done. IF you cant get R12 I would suggest R134 and a replacement Condenser like a parallel flow and maybe even a aux fan. New drier and complete flush of the evap, an a new compressor just to be sure, replace everything (evap too if you want to pop for a new one). Oh and barrier hoses as well. With all new stuff you will be into the price range of a vintage air, but will not have to do the fab work, and it will be original as far as the controls. I like the OE style since it maintains the correct use of the outside air chimney for ventilation. The correct way to diagnose an existing unit would be to have a shop evacuate the existing gas (if any) then fill with nitrogen to about 80psi (the normal off pressure for todays heat) see if it holds pressure, use soapy water to find leaks esp around the condenser. Look at the connections as well. The evap lives in a safe place so it will prob be ok. if pressure test checks out, before pulling a vacuum check to make sure the little line filter at the outside firewall connection of the high side is not plugged up, Flush the condenser with cleaning fluid install a new drier, pull a vacuum. If it hold near 30inmg for several hours after stopping the pump, then they put in the correct amount of R12 (assuming no oil was lost). The system is very simple, and as demonstrated in the video works just fine. Mine had a slow leak at the condenser, I was able to get a nice NOS unit to replace it as well as a now hard to get 33286 drier. This meant I was able to get it completely original. If I could not get the condenser and drier I would prob opt for a after market condenser of the same approx. size and modify the inlet side hard line so I can use the easier to find driers with inlets and outlets at the top.

It's Running! After reading the last posts I disconnected the line to the fuel filter and blew some compressed air in to it going back to the gas tank. Heard the bubbling in the gas tank. Next I filled both float chambers (I had to order a squeeze bottle that holds fuel and the tube went over the nipple perfectly. The bottle is used for filling RC cars). While I was at it, I filled the fuel filter since I had the line disconnected, figured it wouldn't hurt to help with the priming. I used my wd-40 plastic tube and pushed the floats. They bobbed up and down with no problems. Reconnected the fuel lines hoses and the car started up perfect and runs perfect!!! So I don't know if the floats were stuck and were freed up when adding the gas thru the nipple or if there was just an air pocket in the lines. Thanks everyone for the help and Cliff, great photo and descriptions. You made it real simple for me to follow.

Just FYI, I ended up purchasing this car for $4600 plus fees and having it shipped to VA. It has been an absolute nightmare ever since, lol. The rear hatch was rusted shut, and obviously, once I got it opened it revealed a totally rusted and destroyed rear sill part of the plate holder under neath. The rear deck and spare tire was in good shape but that was about where it stopped. The floors were rusted through, as expected, but the roof and roof pillars were all internally rusted, the rocker panels were all shot, someone did kind of a hack job putting a speaker box and amplifier in, and all in all it was pretty much a giant waste of money. Welp, lessons learned, looking for a better shell I can possible used the few parts that aren't garbage to get a start on. And btw I found the original sales article and evidently the turbo was from a Cessna (yep like the plane). Here are the things they DON'T show you in the Copart ad: