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The 280 just sold for $22,000 on BaT and now it is going to Dubai, http://www.tominiclassics.com/ I made my parts and materials cost back and a little bit for my labour, I'm happy boy. Shopping list, another Z, bigger compressor, more lights in the shop, a new Tig welder?, maybe a spot welder too, ...

It's already broken in. I'd just fill it with the oil you intend to use and go right to whatever oil change schedule you normally follow. The only new wear surfaces are the valve ends and the lash pads and they don't see the same sliding wear that the cam lobes do. One opinion..

It's a quality control stamp which reads 合格 ('Go Kaku') meaning 'Pass(ed)'.

Okay, got the manifolds all off without breaking a bolt. Whew!! I let the bolts soak overnight in a penetrating oil and they came off in a breeze. Here are the first looks at the head and and cam. Looks dirty but I don’t see anything the looks like a problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found the ol' super seal set today for the F4W71a transmission. 93 with clutch boot. Can't beat it. https://www.datsunparts.com/2534 I am a bit nervous to put the untested synchros in the rebuild. I may only need to replace the one for third gear. If I need to replace one then I can pony up for a good quality one. I am starting to feel better about the transmission parts availability. Headed to see Jeff at Rally Sport tomorrow for a test ride and to get his opinion on what suspension/ steering parts to replace. Thanks again for the help

Not sure where to put this so here it is: https://www.haltech.com/product-overview-elite-vms-and-vms-t/ Now you can get a Haltech system for a carb'd engine setup without paying for all the Fuel Injection features you don't need.

I use one of those but I took the handle off and use an impact gun to move the load around

Just noticed how worn the driver's side guide is. @SpeedRoo is right. The kits aren't too expensive. Look on zcardepot.com

Don't assume the previous rebuilder did the best job possible if you have no history on the engine. Chain and guides are cheap, replace them. I'm doing the same build F54 with P79 head, just about finished. Balanced the bottom end after a rebore, head skim, cleaned up the ports, new gaskets etc and full block paint after boiling it out and heat treatment. If you have no idea what was done to it then re do it.

They're all good. Although I was actually hoping for clouds the other day. too much UV for me. To Av, it's easier to evaluate somethings when the engine is assembled. If you want to keep the unworn parts. If you're just replacing all of the wear parts then it doesn't matter as much. You can drill two holes in a piece of flat steel bar and bolt it to the crankshaft to lock it down, for removing the various bolts.

So, the yard said the car it came from had 164k miles on it. Didn’t have any other info other than the engine was good. I saw that placard in the head and didn’t know what it meant or who put it there. ZedHead...what is my goal? Two fold, I wanted a replacement engine that had a little extra performance but keep it mostly stock. Sure, maybe I could do the compression test, leak down etc but I wanted to maybe add some performance. Port the head a little, possible shave it like the Captain is doing. At a minimum, I want to pull the head, look over the valves and pistons, see if there is any corrosion or other areas of concern. The engine is sitting in my garage and can’t go in the car for about 6 months (being store in a barn 2 hrs away) while my new house with a massive garage is under construction. I want to know what I have, make some possible performance enhancements and clean and paint the engine. Once It goes in the car I don’t want to them discover issues a few thousand mile later. Don’t it once right and never do it again. Time is something I have a little of right now and it’s either do this or waste time doing something else. The chain looks pretty new to me, but the slack seems a bit excessive, what do you guys think? A few video links here. Here is also a pic of the plugs that came out. Got some gunk on them. Am I making a mistake pulling this head off. I’ll be waiting for some consensus. My new 3/8 impact wrench waiting! [/url] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Picked up another gallon of DTM 2k Epoxy and a little more of the E2335 green. I will try and get the untreated panels completed as well as paint all the jambs and panel insides before mounting all the panels for final bodywork. I also ordered my Vintage Dash from @theguppies this morning! Hope to see that soon as well. Some other small parts have accumulated too. A couple of battery clamps with multiple wire feed mounts. Some black silicone radiator hoses. Some wire terminal blocks for the Haltech wiring harness assembly.

So the question might be are you rebuilding it for fun or to make it better? I'd at least check valve lash and the cam sprocket notch and groove, just to see what the wear is on the valve train. If it's freshly refreshed you'd be wasting money to mess with it. The cam lobes look new. It might end up in worse shape when you're done, no offense. Sorry to the guys looking for internet entertainment. I'm one of them...

Or you can thread a couple of bolts into the other end of The crank and put a bar across them locked against the engine stand to stop the crank from turning.

Did the car have 164K or the engine. That emblem glued on to the engine is not a Nissan factory thing. It looks like it's a fairly fresh reman. You might find that everything is almost new. Might be ready to go as-is. Stop and think. Someone ot there has probably seen this before. @240260280z

I was the kid that talked you into putting YOUR hand on the hot stove.

I reckon there's leg pulling going on here. Or chain yanking or somesuch.

One last try... I see your pic and raise you one:

Drool.... 24(0) karat gold block....

Yes, Just on the other side of the TAXA Tiger Moth trailer in my garage.

Really gets fuzzy when you decide you want to advance the cam 9 degrees

Just did that !

....and make sure the handle end is towards the front of the car. I know a guy that screwed that part up... [emoji51]

A sardine can key in the wall socket, my hand was black but I lived they tell me.

You should be alright with that diff. It was originally for the 280ZX Non turbo 2 coupe. 81 - 83. The 280Z 5 speed had a 3.321:1 1st ratio with a 3.545 diff. The 280ZX turbo had a BW T5 with 3.50:1 ratio with a 3.545 diff You had a 280Z 5 speed ( well, I think it is) with a 3.321:1 1st ratio and a 3.9 diff. If you go to the 300ZX 71C transmission you will have a 3.321:1 1st gear with a 3.9diff. Same as what you have now. If you liked it with the 71B. The 300ZX 71C will be fine but with a better shifter. The photo is two 5 speeds, but are they both widd ratio 280Z or close ratio 280ZX? See "How to" doc on how to tell the difference. How to - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission.pdf

Jim, this is slightly off topic, but as it is my topic, I’m going to take a little license here. I have always loved your car. But now having actually read the small print in your signature lines, I am totally smitten. I’ve owned mine since 1980, but I’m the second owner. I am grateful to the original owner who bought just about everything in the Datsun Competition Catalog and then sold it to me to “save his marriage” (it didn’t work). Your car and you are on my short list of best Z cars I’ve seen! I’m also a IZCC member from back-in-the-day, but I’m not on the OO list and I’m about member 2500? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

After trying this a couple of times, you would be better off finding someone who polishes metal for a living. Its not that expensive to have done and it takes forever to get fully polished

Honestly, I see more cars at shows north of $50,000 in restoration costs WITHOUT labour factored in, I'm not surprised anymore. It will always be cheaper to buy someone else's finished product than to do it yourself....