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Just wanted to chime in and let everybody know that the houston floods spared both the Datsuns and the Z and roadster will be seeing the beauty that is texas fall soon. Hope everybody is well, and driving as much as possible. I have been away for too long from this great community and will make an effort to be more present as I miss you guys. SD

Thanks Jeff! I have a "volume knob" fix on my CTS. Louder=more fuel. I can flood it out. 2 things to do this winter when it's too cold out. Oh wait. I forgot about the 99 other things I punted on this summer when it was too hot. I'm getting old.

Cliff, my street engine is a N47 with flat top pistons and it does fine on 93 pump gas. I did the rheostat mod to add some fuel, but otherwise, it's stock EFI and cam. I run a AZC 6-1 header on that car. Slap the flat top pistons in with the N42 and call it a day. Just make sure the head hasn't been milled at all. Even a shallow clean-up cut will put you over 10:1 and it won't like pump gas.

Thanks @mbz ! It really was a fun show and the car got lots of attention. Amazing how many cars there were (over 500) and the crowds that came out to the show. It has papers in the window...the original dealer sticker is posted on the passenger side ☺️. I don't think any other vehicle at the show had that. That is a small metal vacuum tube that goes to the EGR valve solenoid. It's a bit kinked, but still functional. Also, we got the judging sheets back. (Note: car is actually a 1973 and not a 1971, wonder which judge wrote that down) I think we did fairly well in spite of the mad scrambling the last couple weeks to get everything ready for the show. We were marked off 3 points for dirt behind the seats. Will have to pay better attention to that next time. Seems like a lot of points off just for dirt, but oh well. I was surprised the we were marked off for the bead blast finish on the valve cover and intake manifold. I thought that looked pretty close to stock that way, but apparently not. I wonder if all judges would mark that off or if it was just this judge. Personally, I thought the flat tops were too shiny and we would get dinged for that. We were also missing a few small vacuum tube clamps. That has since been corrected along with the kinked hose that has now been replaced with the correct hose (Thanks @Zup ). Most of the other items I was aware of and was surprised that we did not get marked off for some other items I knew about, like the rear carpet plastic trim finisher which was installed backwards or luggage straps that were installed with hex bolts among other things. These have since been corrected now that we have time, but I would have marked me off for those things. Guess that makes up for the 3 point dirt deduction. Anyway, the shows have been great fun. Car is now on it's way up to it's new home in the Bay area with @jayhawk .

8.5HP OHV Subaru Engine with Mikuni carb! It was attached to a Baldor Generator (Made in USA). Cool Japanese metal gas tank on top too! Making progress on a new garage in the sticks with no power. Now have some power!

You are also getting 2 Clevite Rod Bolt Condoms. Let me know if you need a formal ring land cleaning tool? It is a bit clunky. I prefer using the old rings (and my ultrasonic cleaner) Engine Builders Unite!

I would suggest NOT doing that. The bushing actually needs to be easy to slide in and out from the front so you can swap different sizes in and out as well as rotate them a bit as needed to get the hole in the right orientation for assembly onto the dowel. The eccentric bushings work great, but they are easiest to install after the gear is on. You pick a bushing that you think will be right and then slide it into the large gear hole and over the dowel at the same time while you rotate the cam into the right position to line everything up. The offset is very small in some cases and it is almost improssible to line up exactly if you try to make it a tight fit in the gear. It also has to be installed from the front as you will need to swap them in and out to get the cam degreed in. As I found, the cam will be a degree or so off on either the intake or the exhaust. Unlike a dual cam, you have to work with what you have. I'm not sure why mine was like that, but I'm guessing it's normal. I never tried to degree a stock cam to see if it is a tad off too. Are you running the stock cam? If not, you will get frustrated very quickly if you attempt to use the stock FI system. I tried numerous times to use this same cam with FI in a different L28 and it sucked. The stock EFI hates low vacuum which is what you will get with any mild duration cam. It made no power and idled like crap. No amount of tuning will change the L-Jet's need for vacuum. That's when I gave up and put the cam on a shelf for 10 years until I built this motor with SU's. My 10:1 street Z still runs the stock cam and EFI for this reason. This motor at 9.5:1 is way better. Good luck and feel free to throw ideas at me. I'm happy to share my good and bad experiences.

My son is really looking forward to getting the injectors back so we can put things back together and keep working. I've been trying to keep from changing too many things at once. Every time I do that I don't know which change caused which effect.

A bit of information coming in. I don't have the full results, but heard from the company I sent my fuel injectors to for cleaning/flow testing. Results were that the flow rate was approx. 190cc, which is pretty close to the 185cc of original. They should be on their way back to me tomorrow and I'll look at the full results. I'm assuming with this news, I should go ahead and reinstall vs purchasing new ones. Also purchased a fuel regulator that I'll put on at the same time, in place of the aftermarket there now. With both back in place, I can start looking at why the fuel pressure is so low.

Yes. I'm totally using stock EFI and stock cam. I'm using my 1980 throttle body so I can have the idle air adjustment screw(1982 screw is not on the throttle body) . I have also deleted the CSV and warming plate and all EGR equipment. It starts and runs fine in our current 55 degree temps.

The block I used came from one of the fellow forum members (Phillip, @240260280) so I don't really know where he got it. There are many brands you can find online with a quick search with key words like "maxifuse, fuse block,..." etc. Maybe Phil will chime in here as well. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Not too many 71A, B or C:s for sale around here. Maybe before anything else I'll take my three-teeth-missing 71B to a professional to see if it could be fixed. In my non-professional opinion it looks pretty good and feels tight. Worth a try at least.

Yeah it's mostly the hours that I need to pay, and the hourly rate here in EU ( NL ) is much higher then in the US.. I'm just getting tired of shops doing a lazy half job all the time and me paying big bucks for it, be it with ( classic ) cars, or in my work with scooters ( thing I need to repair that other shops have done a bad job on ) or construction. There are hardly any real professionals these days left, although many claim to be.... And the trend goes on.. not many people want to get their hands dirty anymore these days, so technical people will be outsourced more and more from abroad.

I rechecked mine after the initial "run in", about 150 miles of varying speeds to set the rings then again at 500 miles. Haven't touched them sense. I really need to do that soon too. Glad it all came together for you. Congratulations.

really just wanted to get away from work/phones/email, getting old figured got to get this done sooner that later. Always wanted to do a road trip, and figured it would be a good test of the Datsun to see if I have it in good running condition. 800+ miles per day seemed like a good test. I like old cars that I can understand and are easy to fix, and I don't feel the need for all the modern stuff that new cars have, so less to worry about going wrong on a long trip.

Awesome! Glad it's running well. I'm a long way behind you, but I hope mine turns out as well!

I have been off the site for a little while as I could tell I needed more information. All of the Z's were driven into the wharehouse and were in good running condition. Unfortunately they have not been turned over in years. I had a Z mechanic look at the vehicles and he advised based on what he can tell it will not take a lot for the engines to run. For those that will be at the SEMA Conference in Vegas I will be there from 11/3-11/8 and the cars are in the Las Vegas area and would be willing to show the vehicles for serious buyers. Thank you for all of your advice and suggestions.

That's a good machine, I looked into that size of generator as back up for when the power goes down, I went with a less expensive used generator instead. That unit gets good reviews.

Hey, just joined. Bought this 71 #33909 off BaT a few days ago form an owner of 30 years. The car is straight, all original sheet metal and rust free so I have a nice base. The car is now with Robert at the 240Z Guild down in Madill, OK for an evaluation and some refreshing. Have had lots and lots of cars but my first Z so this will be a learning experience. Also, I'm decent at the conceptual stuff but an unskilled fairly miserable wrencher so I got that going for me ?

Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.