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Another shameless plug https://www.kusi.com/dave-stall-50th-anniversary-of-the-z-sports-car/

Vintage Glass, oem tint, no blue band across top. Stay away from PPG unless you like the blue shade band. Timely because I am working a deal with other local club members with S30's to purchase 5 windshields from Vintage, we pickup in Little Rock from their warehouse which waives the freight cost of $ 245 each.

Congratulations! I see you have your eyes fixated on that trophy...

The unique part of the sale of my engine is that he got to ride in my car before the purchase. The way his eyes lit up during the test drive I knew it was sold. He couldn’t believe it was so fast( relative term for sure). As he left I told him(27 years of age and his first manual trans car) that he had more engine than car now - so be careful. I wish I knew the guy that sold him his car so I could forward him these pics . There’s no denying the facts here. And yes I got a good price and labor to install and tune his car. Like I said - he has more engine than car now in many ways $$$$$$ .

So my build thread title is now wrong. After starting to tear down the car I got to the firewall VIN, and thought "Hmmmm, that doesn't look right" I check the door jam and sure enough they were different, then my thought changed to "Oh shi...." Well after some research the firewall VIN is clean and clear, no salvage, no theft, someone just replaced the plates for some odd reason, but I ACTUALLY own a 73 240Z, with an L24 engine with Weber carbs and Cannon intake manifold (BTW if anyone wants the engine it's fair game). Engine and trans coming out this weekend and the disassembly continues.

Also make sure your probes aren't plugged into the current (amps) reading ports on the meter. Should be Ohms/volts and ground

For the big casting flash seams on the outside of the head, I just used a carbide bit on a dremel. I didn't take any after shots, but this is what I started with. I buzzed off the worst of it with the dremel and then finished with a hand file:

I take it that you mean that you have a reading of 1 when the probes are touched together. That isn't necessarily a problem. Often you can see the resistance change just by changing the amount of pressure you are using to hold the probes against one another. Also the quality of the leads and build quality of the meter can cause some small resistance. My old Fluke meter reads 0.3 Ohms with the leads held firmly against one another. I just account for that in my readings. Analog multimeters have a Zero Adjust for the needle when measuring resistance. If you don't trust your meter, consider getting a Fluke 116 or 117. The Fluke 115 is cheaper, but it doesn't have the capability of the others. The 116 is nice in that it also comes with a thermocouple for temperature measurements. What are you trying to check on your fuel injection?

Back off a degree at a time until you eliminate the detonation . Sounds like your valve guide seals need replaced . You can research on how to set limits on your vacuum advance . You want to able to limit its travel and then try using it again. Also a thought. I run a MSA header and noticed early on that the exhaust noise in the header sounds rattling, like detonation , but it’s not . I was always suspicious until one day I got my timing way off and I heard real detonation . I then knew that there was a difference and he previous rattle was from exhaust

Thanks!! I'll let you know when that stuff gets here. My motor and my stand are going to GGR's tomorrow. If I remember, I'll try to get pics of the two motors side-by-side.

OK you get the shirt now! You won! C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S!!!!!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_entendre

If you could use the correct rotation on your TPS, that would be greeaaaattt. The new TPS arrived today. First thing after unwrapping was to make sure it rotated in the correct direction. It was a snug fit, and it rotated in the proper direction. I re-installed the throttle shaft and attached the new TPS. I fired up the computer and got a good rough adjustment. I fired up the car, and it was no longer running rich. It was time to take it for a drive. The car runs more quietly with the fuel injection (an observation I attribute to the lack of tuning skill on the SUs, especially compared to someone like @240260280). Throttle response was smooth. There is still tuning and datalogging to do, but I do have a fully functional 260Z again.

Now the Z is back home in N. California. I'll be driving it to local shows for the next year or two. I'll be at the Neillo Concours Serano at the El Dorado Hills country club in Sacramento on Sunday, Oct 6th. It seems to me that these concours events value originality and authenticity more than the japanese car events. But most concours events seem to be more focused on old European and American iron. I'm just going to see if I can get my Datsun up close to some antique Rolls. Bet I get bigger crowds! Finally home. Need to get a anti door ding barrier built, and some netting for the shelves to protect against the next quake...

Just wanted to chime in and let everybody know that the houston floods spared both the Datsuns and the Z and roadster will be seeing the beauty that is texas fall soon. Hope everybody is well, and driving as much as possible. I have been away for too long from this great community and will make an effort to be more present as I miss you guys. SD

Hi, what a great car. Have the same , Color in- and outside from 02.1971. It is original , just missing the original engine .? 90% first paint and drove ist over 3500 miles this year. So keep it as it is and have a lot of fun with the Z.

I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!

Here are some of the award links. Would be nice to have a video of the presentation. http://autoweek.com/gallery/car-life/winners-la-jolla-concours Pic # 23 https://www.lajollaconcours.com/2018-winners

I lived with a '76 2+2 for 10 years- http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12372&sort=1&cat=500&page=2 As best I remember, the differences are the shell of the car: Doors Door glass, Upper inside door handles(for the back seat), Seats(they fit a coupe , but are made to be moved from the rear too) Seatbelts Dog leg trim Hatch shell Hatch glass Sway bars, Console(has the rear ashtray, but fits a 2 seater!) Hatch sub floor, hatch carpet, Rear Harness(it is just longer than a 2 seater) Drive shaft Shock absorbers Pretty much everything else is interchangeable. I have a rolling '77 2+2 parts car with a clear title at the farm-wiring is bad, no differential mount, a few coupe fitting interior pieces missing, but most of the other parts are in good useable shape (including both the doors)if there is something you need(and aren't in a rush). Will

Well I’ve developed a noise down below. Not sure what’s going on, but more than likely it’s time to pull the pan . Runs good, but maybe a rod didn’t like the initial abuse. It sucks , but this was a budget build so I can’t expect miracles . Might get lucky and find something came a little loose, but nothing wrong on top. The head is what I’m worried about - too much time invested there. The short block is stock . My helper is available by the end of the week to give me a hand for whatever I decide . I was planning on swapping transmissions anyway, but now it looks I’ll be pulling everything . This kid is good and we will have it on a stand in less than 3 hours . Takes a little pain out of the sting when you have a sidekick that can throw down a Snap on wrench faster than you can. I really want dyno numbers on the stock flat top so I and going to continue this mission before dropping in the 3.2- besides that short block is not finished. I’m determined to see 200 rwhp with his combo.