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Finally have a little time to work on my car. Woo-Hoo!. Engine is coming along nicely. Car should be primered pretty soon. Will post those pics once they are ready. Here are some engine pics and jewelry pics for now. Still debating on what to do for the valve cover. Got dinged at ZCON for bead blasting cover. Will try just cleaning up with steel wool and see how that looks.

The statement in the book about the bolts doesn't make sense. Maybe he had a bad experiencing in the past and assumed it was the bolts. Like any bolt and nut it just uses leverage to apply force to the cap. Break it down to simple physics and you can't find a reason that mixing them up would matter. I'd be more concerned with metal fatigue and stretching, from the first usage. New bolts and nuts is probably just a good safeguard against failure.

The engine is at the shop. $50 hot tank and replace core plugs $65 clean and inspect head and cam $55 to shave head .040 $50 to hone cylinders and polish crank 10 day turnaround. $220 out the door plus tax. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Word.

Hi John, glad to see you got it listed. I'm sure you'll find an owner for the car soon. It looks to be in great condition. Here's an image for the front page.

Well I found a 2nd hole I didn’t know I had. I tested it and I should be able to fit all wiring with zero new holes in the car. So that’s a full efi install with zero holes or Permanent mods! Stoked. 02 sensors go through the shifter hole. Tps, air temp, coolant temp, home signal and injectors through the choke hole. R35 coils, crank trigger, oil pressure, fuel pressure, dual positives and ground will go through the hole below the stereo.

Nice examples ! I will take a picture of my Fairlady 240ZG tomorrow, let’s see what the car have . Kats

Yeah, I don't see how rod bolts would effect clearances or roundness the way caps would. The only issue I could see would be stretch and that would be resolved if they fully reached finished torque. I also don't see how orientation would be relevant either. As CO pointed out you could replace all of them with ARP hardware and I wouldn't expect to have to big end size as long as the cap was on each mating rod. CO, you could experiment if you have the proper measuring tools. Take a known rod with the properly located bolts. Torque it down and check the ID both ways to determine roundness. Then relocate the bolts or change the orientation and recheck. I suspect your dimension won't change as long as the torque wrench is accurate.

I ran a long wood screw through the middle and let it press off of the inside of the passage. It cocked a bit so I punched one half in and pulled the other half out. Rotated on the edges. Then I grabbed it and pulled it out. If you get the middle torn out the edges will fold in pretty easily with a punch. The sealing surface is wide and you can use sealant on it.

I am all set for the chain, got the TDC checked, found the two bright links on my existing setup, on over the #1 on the cam sprocket the other over the dimple on the crank sprocket (3 o clock). I confirmed my TDC with a dial indicator held in the #1 hole while I cranked on the crank bolt put back in the crankshaft. I was reading the Datsun book, I see they recommend some gasket sealant around the water holes on the block to cover, I assume the rest is not the much of an issue. I was going to do that around the oil holes to and from the pump as well. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get as much of the old gasket scraped off, one of the advantages I suppose of not having parts is I tend to spend more time prepping and cleaning. The v notch was directly over the timing mark on the camshaft retainer, so I assume my OE chain was no stretched at all, but after seeing all that gouging I made me worry hence the new chain. That and the fact that I don't really know what went wrong so replace it all...

Here are the dimensions.

Looking at its current state, in my mind, it's begging for a hook of some sort, attached to my slide hammer with a lot of heat around the edges. Beer is optional.

View Advert 75-76 280z fuel tank Removed from my 71 240z. No leaks, fully functional, clean inside, never coated. Not sure why it was ever installed. Replaced by good 240z tank. Some small dents, some evidence of repairs. Includes working fuel level sender. Can include unused Bill Hirsch 3 part lining kit. More images available upon request. Can box and ship, estimated domestic shipping cost $75. Advertiser kenward1000 Date 09/29/2019 Price $450.00 Category Parts for Sale

ok popped for the OSK kit from a local supplier, good price too! Not much more than the Oreily kit was going to be. If I am going to make my trip to Alaska via the Yukon, I need Dat Boi it top shape.

@240260280 Keep on Hoovering, its out there somewhere. I Googled some RHD Fairlady Z engine pics - the few that I found all had a rail with the pivoting first mounting tang and offset supply/return nozzles.

Here is a 1972 Cedric Fuel rail. It has similarities and differences:

So, I am actually starting work on this guy again. Slow, but it's coming along. I was sidetracked for a bit with the 'Deja Vu' project and also had some house stuff to fix up. (I actually built a nice custom shed to store stuff in, like car parts. I will get pictures of the shed later. Very happy with how it turned out.) Anyway, I am starting the tear down as you can see in the pics. I have learned that the key to this is to have nicely marked tubs to put your parts in. Engine parts go in the engine tub, interior parts in the interior tub, parts to be zinced go in the zinc tub. And as always, take lots of pics. I love how original the car is; lots of the original wire clamps, heater hoses, smog hoses, bolts that have never been removed and are in good condition. This has been very easy to disassemble so far. Took out the original antenna and bench tested; it works great. Got the motor pulled out last weekend with the help of @Montezuma. Hopefully, I will have this stripped in a month or two, then off to Miguel's for paint. Here are some pics.

Well, It looks like we are good for me to pick up this Z. I will need to contact the owner and work out arrangements....aahhh the concessions. She said that I should see if i can put a deposit down on the car and pick it up in a couple months when we have more room. If not, I will have to see about working out a storage location with Montezuma. And she want some house upgrades done as well....concessions, So, I have to be completely honest here. The love of my wife's life is her 1 year old grand nephew. We are not grandparents ...yet...so I guess she is practicing with the grand nephew. She asked about putting together our kids old hobby horse which had been stored for years, in pieces, up in the garage rafters. She wants to give it to her grand nephew for his first birthday. So instead of doing car stuff on Sunday, I surprised her with the completely restored hobby horse. I even put clear plastic over the springs to prevent finger pinch. Anyway, she was just thrilled to death about this. I figured this was necessary to make sure she was in a very good mood. I showed her pics of the car this AM and she really liked it. So, very happy with all this. I will try and work out some time where we can drive out to the sellers place in the roadster and see the car. Maybe next weekend. Will keep things updated as it progresses here. .

I brought a surprise Z home once. It was in the backyard for about a month before she noticed...

picked up the rad today, looked nice, removed the tape from the neck (protect it from the fresh paint) looked inside, looked exactly the same, build up about 20%, I wonder if they just painted it. Anyway complained, they were very understanding and will take it apart and examine again. I hope they don't just clean up the few ones I can see and call it done. Been to them over the past 30 years at least. Never had a problem. At best now I will prob make this a spare rad and pop for a new one, have to take my chances on made in China stuff, which is exactly what I was trying to avoid.