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Winter is coming, the Z is going back to sleep this week untill March 2020. I had the chance to buy good quality floord boards and frame rails with Joop Stolze ( where I bought the Z also ). It's one of the last 2 things I want to do to the Z.. I will do that in the coming years, not in a state of hurry on that. But back in 2012 I let somebody else repair the floors, but I don't like the job he did, he repaired it with sections of universal sheet metal and the job was not so nice to my standards. The body shop replaced everything else the last time, but not the floors, I told them will do these myself. The other thing is replacing the hood hinges. These are underway from Canada. Big thanks to zKars and Namerow... Hope that will solve the hood aligning problem.

Hey Guys, long time lurker, first time posting. I am going through a rebuild on the L20B out of my 620 and had a similar problem. I've been scratching my head as to how the guide would break like it did and this had shed some light on it. A few dings in the oil pan, scratches on the front cover, and almost worn through oil jet were the result. I'm surprised it didn't do more damage. I appreciate the knowledge that gets shared here.

Here you go....

So I took a little time tonight and installed the idle air control valve. It's getting crowded on top of the intake manifold now. On the bright side, I don't have to pull up on the choke handle to let extra air through at cold idle.

Sorry to see how rusty and beat up the car is, especially since it's an early car. The moral we all need to keep in mind: Get someone to look the car over directly. Post the request on here if you don't know anyone nearby. Otherwise, assume the worst.

Just an update on my bumper saga. I contacted Ogden chrome and got quite a run around. After about 2 weeks I finally got to speak with Jose. He quoted me $3200 + shipping to do front and rear bumpers without over bars. I had previously spoke several times with The Chrome Shop in Rock Island, Illinois. Very nice to talk to and very quick to respond to phone calls and emails. Quote: $1200. So far , they are who I'll be using. I'll keep you posted.

FWIW, I followed the recommendation of another CZCC member and used HVAC aluminum tape to replace the peeling factory plasti-chrome. I did this two years ago and the job is holding up nicely. The blue plastic 'rib' substrate has to be thoroughly cleaned and degreased to ensure a good result. The tape surface does not respond to polishing, but it has (and retains) a near-chrome sheen. I think you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference from the original unless they were placed side by side. I was very pleased with the results. The challenge with this job is that the blue plastic rib has a highly convex surface contour. Before using the aluminum tape, I tried a 'chrome' tape with a peel-off backing strip that I found in my local auto parts store. It's about 20% shinier than the aluminum tape and would probably be indistinguishable from the OE chrome. Unfortunately, the tape is made from plastic and it's a bit stiff. This is especially noticable across the short dimension of the tape and it wasn't happy being asked to form and lay down over the contour of the blue rib. The adhesive just wasn't up to the task of holding the long edges down and they would almost immediately start to lift. The aluminum tape is metal rather than plastic, so it formed very easily over the rib and there was no 'memory' effect trying to make it go back to flat.

Hey, just joined. Bought this 71 #33909 off BaT a few days ago form an owner of 30 years. The car is straight, all original sheet metal and rust free so I have a nice base. The car is now with Robert at the 240Z Guild down in Madill, OK for an evaluation and some refreshing. Have had lots and lots of cars but my first Z so this will be a learning experience. Also, I'm decent at the conceptual stuff but an unskilled fairly miserable wrencher so I got that going for me ?