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No problem with welding heavier sheet metal to thinner. I prefer welding thick to thin than thin to thin. I'd remove both floor pan frame rails first and assess the damage to the floor pans. The welded repairs in pics #3 & 4 suck.Those welds will need to be removed and redone properly. Remove the undercoat and rust from those ares and you'll have a better idea of what you'll want to do.

I actually paid an extra $500 in 1977 for a dealer installed Hitachi AM-FM-CB-CASSETTE unit that worked flawlessly for the 4 years I had my 280Z. An adaptor was placed on the OEM electric antenna so it would work for the CB signal as well. Very slick set up!! That was a bunch of money in relation to the $8,000 I paid for the ZAP but I loved it and used it continuously, shifting from talking to 18 wheelers to listening to the recently released Saturday Night Fever soundtrack. Miss those days! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

While I wait for my block and head to be completed I’ve started to clean up my intake manifold and will refresh all connections and sensors. I had these parts for the fuel rail for about a year so I finally got to building it up. I wanted to streamline the fuel delivery layout away from the rusty looking trombone rail that comes stock. This aluminum rail was $40 on eBay. I had to drill and tap all the openings execpt the ends which just needed tapping with a tap 1/4 NPT. Got all the bibs and tap from Fastenal. Tap was almost as much at the rail at around $30. Brass Bids were very cheap too. Whole deal cost me about $80 and about 70 mins of work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Test drive went well, Oil pressure came right up (should figuring all the pre running, no noticeable leakage of water, some oil around drain pan passenger side, but I suspect that came from when I installed the full oil filter. No "funny" sounds, just normal Datsun engine. I will get a couple cans of brake clean (I never seem to have enough of that stuff) and hose off the under side around the oil pan to be sure. there was some anti freeze trapped on suspension part under the water inlet, I think that came from when I re attached the heater hose, I blew it out with compressed air, towel dried it. It seems like a natural catch place for water anyway. Had the squeals from the belts, alt most likely, I tend to install too loose, trying to not over stress the water pump. Maybe a new belt is in order, will pickup when I get the brake clean. Next trip will be to south florida, South beach, pretend I am sonny crocket, cruise around at O dark thirty. The beach is fun then, cool and feels like going home again (but for all the new roads anyway). Maybe drive around the old hood and see what's happening. A nice short trip to really give it a test, before tail of the dragon, then maybe plan a trip up the North East. I would ultimately like to drive in Canada, maybe up the Yukon, but that will take a lot of time before I think I can get up the nerve to test the long range of the Z again.

Breaker Breaker. Anyone have a CB radio in their Z last century? Or was I the only one? Those were the days, Good Buddy. Mounted it under the glove box and the antenna was attached to the rear window louvers before I upgraded to a magnetic base antenna. Catch you on the flip side. Dennis

A little lite wire wheel and elbow grease and these cleaned up nice. All cracks are no longer visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I sanded one of the areas I saw the spider cracks and I think it’s fine. I used 320 grit followed by 1500. Check it out now. Any seconds? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've seen faint spider webbing on those casting in the past but nothing as prominent as those and never in those locations.

I’m sure it does...I copied yours Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks familiar. When you get a minute plug up the barbs for the injectors and hook a fuel pump up, check for leaks before you install it. I had to find a better thread sealer as mine leaked a little. Looks damn good!

View Advert 1977 280z 2nd Owner, Mostly Original For sale is my 1977 280z in metallic blue. Just over 65,000 on the odometer. 2nd owner. Mostly original except wheels, radio, & exhaust. Manual transmission, 4 speed, factory A/C (needs to be charged). Runs and drives great. Please contact me for additional info and pictures. Advertiser Chuck Chouteau Date 10/04/2019 Price $13,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1976 Model 280Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

I'm not far from Strafford. And that's not too far from Devo either. LOL!

That would be great! I will let you know when get close. What's a good time to make that drive? for best views, traffic etc....

I can make room for you in the guest house not far from "Tail of the Dragon"...

What I heard what that #5 main I believe . It hadn’t spun yet but was ready. Or - what I heard was the piston hitting the head around the damaged areas. The holes left raised areas around them on both the piston and head. There simply wasn’t enough clearance and they were slightly tapping each other as the engine heated up and things expanded. Another lesson I was schooled on by my machinist. Don’t just throw new rods bolts in - ARP or otherwise without having rods re-sized a the big end. This was a budget build on the short block, but at 10$ per rod I got to cheap and that could have also caused premature wear. It was more ignorance than $$ , but don’t have that excuse anymore .

Take a can of air with you when you drive. If the car dies, hold the can upside down and spray the module. If it comes back to life quickly, you have your answer.

Very good catch! I also find myself distracted by the green pretty often ?

Good catch! I was distracted by the green .....

Kevin, you want to turn this around 180* and have the rubber bumper just touching the cross member.

Hi Sean, I ended up ordering a jdm muffler from you! Had it put on 2 months ago and love it. I'm running a 2.5" pipe to it, no additional mufflers or resonators and it's loud as sh@#*t but amazing sounding. Most comparable to a pack of 12 grizzly bears and 13 lions sent up from the depths of hell.

Hi Jeff. If you haven't already decided, I just loaded some videos of mine here :

Well - it’s serious . Weird stuff , but I will take all responsibility. #5 main journal bearing was going away quickly, which contaminated others like #6 rod. It would have to be dirt or a shavings I missed maybe. The pics of #4 piston is something different . Somehow there was/is welding splatter balls in the intake runners of the head. One of these that was stuck/melted to the runner wall let loose and thus tearing up my piston , head and a valve seat on the way out . The head has been sitting around for a while , but the odds that I was welding close enough with enough splatter to fly into the runners is mind boggling- but it must of happened . Unless it happened at the machine shop and didn’t see the splatter . Just weird . Only good thing out of this so far is I have found no real damage from detonation running 11.5:1 . Everything is at the machine shop getting touch ups