Leaderboard

When you hold the can upside down, the contents come out as a liquid since the chemical is a liquid at that pressure. Upon exiting the can, the chemical immediately starts to expand, though some of it will stay a liquid for a short time. As it expands in the transition to gaseous phase, the chemical absorbs heat, significantly cooling what the liquid is in contact with. In this case, if the ignition module is overheating and failing, the immediate cooling could revive it. To give another example that a large portion of this board can relate to: Old-timers would use CO2 fire extinguishers to cool their beers when there was no ice available. The CO2 was under pressure in the fire extinguisher, so spraying it on the cans of beer would provide them with a cold beverage in a very short amount of time. Of course, it was a real pain when they had a fire and found all of their fire extinguishers empty.

Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well.

Thanks to jfa.series1 for telling me how to figure it out. Got the hinges in and solved my hatch issues. Thanks!

You stole my pic rascal!

The hinges ARE left and right! Look for a "L" and "R" stamped on the body - between the large flat Phillips head screws. FYI - I have a set for sale if you need replacements. Stripped, replated, ready for paint.

A little lite wire wheel and elbow grease and these cleaned up nice. All cracks are no longer visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car will remain running after it warms up, but not happily. Of note, if I remove the cover from the smaller vacuum port to release some of the vacuum, it actually runs a bit better (rpm goes up a bit and doesn't sound as rough). If I open the air flow meter and manually reduce, it runs smoother still... I removed the AFM. Connector to throttle body seems good. No cracks. I then sealed that, hooked a tube up to a vacuum port and blew in smoke from a cigar. First of all, bleh. Been a long time since I smoked a cigar and I remember why I only tend to do so when drinking... There does seem to be a small leak in the throttle body. Not at the gasket, but where the throttle goes through the side. Not large (takes a while for to equalize), but does release pressure over 10s of seconds. Is any leaking at all a bad thing? If so, is there a way to seal that section of a throttle body? Or do I get a new one? Next, I'll start learning how to test temperature sensors. Bought a good mulitmeter. Now just need to learn to really use it (and what to hook it to where...)

Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well. Now the easy stuff is left. Hopefully I will get that all done tomorrow.

The fire extinguishers were empty but their bladders were full.

Keep an eye on this too. I had to repair the hatch on the car I am currently working on

I'm covered I guess I should have said new ZF rails.

When I moved from New Jersey to Texas in 1977 my brother gave me his CB for the drive down. When I bought my Z 2 years later I installed it behind the passenger seat. The P.O. must have had one, because there was an antenna mount on the rear bumper. I was more into listening to the truckers than talking. I removed it many years ago and replaced it with a CD Changer (another obsolete item). I still have the CB in the basement somewhere. Might be useful after civilization collapses.

You can weld Zedd Findings over the factory rails BUT that doesn't deal with the rust inside the factory rails. The rails are frequently rust pitted on the inside almost to the point of total penetration and the outsides will look pretty good. Off with them.

It's hot outside! Just call me "mini-vac".

Check the welded metal tang on the hatch itself too. Some tear out and then are poorly repaired.

Found it. Your 5 speed will have some of the same parts as the 4 speeds. Check the part numbers as described...