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+1 on the front crossmember as recommended by @siteunseen. There is a box member running across the rear of the car that is also a good place for jack stands - providing you don't have any serious rust issues in the area. If you have to pull the engine and remove the crossmember, consider bolting in a 4X4 at the crossmember mount points as a substitute.

I use the front crossmember. It has a square plate thing in the middle that I put my floorjack under. Then once it's up I put jack stands where the A arms meet the crossmember. It's a tight squeeze getting the jack and stands in but it works for me. On the rear I do the same pretty much. Jack under the diff mount I think then stands where the rear A arms meet. I try to avoid under the rocker panel on mine, it's really soft under there. Best of luck! You've found a deep well of knowledge here. Not me though, I'm pretty new to 240s.

Your car will foul the plugs quickly if the water temp sensor is not connected and everything else is nominal. The computer will think you are in Antarctica and flood the cylinders with gas. Some pictures here showing how the temp sensor wiring goes back to the harness: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html This will help you better understand the Z's EFI system. It is not that difficult: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/overview.html

Thanks man, it is a real bought it from an old lady story. I am going to take her for a ride when I get things dialed in. It should be a reliable driver soon. I can take it for a test ride tomorrow. I need to put in the driveshaft, exhaust, and fill the differential then I can drive it around the block. Ran into a snag on the brakes though. I rebuilt the proportioning valve and now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes. Front brakes seem to work OK. There is a thread where a guy has similar symptoms. I am going to take it apart tomorrow and make sure the seals are going in the right direction.

I just pulled my 75 FSM to look at the wiring. The relevant info is on page EF-47. Here is theory of operation (my words not FSM so anyone jump in if I don't make sense) 1 - Power to ignition switch through fusible link. 2 - Start position on ignition switch routes 12V to FI Relay(FIR) pin 86A. The wire leading there will be labeled 76. 3 - INSIDE the FIR pin 86A and 86 are tied together. So 12V will now be on pin 86 of the FIR as well. 4 - Connected to pin86 are two wires. Wire 47 and wire 4. W47 feeds the 12V crank signal to the high side of the Cold Start Valve (CSV). The low side is grounded by the themotime switch. W4 as we might guess routes power to pin4 on the ECU. W47 and W4 are spliced in the factory harness near the FIR & could very well be a source of your issue. Here is what I would check. - Measure the voltage at Pin/Wire 47 at the coldstart valve when you crank. This wire is super easy to get to & should be a solid connection to pin4 on the ECU. If it also reads 9.6V we can assume that splice is fine and the wiring from FIR pin 86 to the ECU is ok & we'll have to look some more. If it's 12V and the ECU PIN4 is only 9.6V, awesome!! We know where the problem is, it's the splice! These two points should be the same voltage all the time no matter what as they should be a direct connection. Len

Just an update as what I found with my start problem. Actually all of you were correct. I went back and reviewed my data I took on the ECU connector and found pin 4 voltage was low, 9.6vdc. My battery was low, 11.8 volts so I recharged and took readings at pin 4 again and it was still low, 9.6 vdc. So I started at the ign sw and worked my way down to the connector on the FI relay. The ign switch was open or a momentary resistance reading on bench testing. Luckily I had a new switch and I verified the old switch was bad. I reinstalled the new switch and again checked for battery voltage at pin4 and it was still 9.6 volts? If I held the key in the start position for 60 seconds the voltage would rise to about 11.4 volts. I connected everything up and started the motor. It started right up 6 times in succession. I let the motor get to full operating temp and it 's running great and very smooth. In addition the vacuum increased from 18 hg to 21 hg? BTW I did replace all my injector connectors several months ago and verified each is firing consistently. I installed new plugs, fuel pump, wires, cap/ rotor, checked timing, and adjusted valves several times. I'm not complaining , but I still don't understand why I have 9.6 volts at pin 4 going to the ECU at start. Appears to me that something something is pulling the voltage down. Maybe this is normal , yet the FI manual says it should be "battery voltage". I did check the relay pins 86a to 86 and there is no resistance and yet I have 9.6 volts output. Before I declare victory I will try and start the car from a dead cold start and see if that makes any difference. Thanks again for all the great comments and help....Ron

I'd never heard about the Batman Angle so you know I googled it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_angle "Dutch angles were used extensively in the satirical 1960s Batman TV series (and its 1966 film spin-off) in which each villain had his or her own angle, as they were "crooked".

Here's more goodness from atlanticz's ancient page. Looks like 33.3 mm is the typical Nissan base circle diameter. You can measure that without removing anything except the valve cover. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valvetrain/index.html

Ok , if your 240Z was born in at or before August 1972 , your car doesn’t need the splash pan . Kats