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I was really thinking hard about bidding on the car towards the end of the auction since it's only 5 hours south on I-25 of where I live here in Colorado. But as soon as I got ready to place the $1,100.00 bid, I just knew that my wife would kill me since I already have 4 other 240Z project cars.

Ha! You support a rusty Z by the wallet!

While there is a bunch of work to do on this 240z could be a winner for someone with restoration talent. Sitting at $600 last time I checked . https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-110/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're going to laugh but a dollar store pool noodle works great, closed cell foam, a 3/4"deep cut length wise and slip it over the pinch weld, cut it to height if needed and it sure doesn't $6.00 usd per foot.

It may have ended up there but is surely didn't live its life there. That car is easily as toasted as 27th was when I got her.

FYI, when looking at the ZCON website on a phone, there should be a menu icon in the top right corner of the screen (on top of the second N in Nissan on the image below). It is the 3 horizontal bars. When you touch it, it brings up the site menu. You can get to the hotel link that way.

@SteveJ tks, I could not see it while checking the phone version of the website. On the computer there was no problems and I have changed my booking to the Embassy Suite. See you there! Cheers.

Same here. It was not the heater core and from all I read they don't leak, it's the water c o c k valve and that small hose that are normal suspects. I changed those out and all is good now. That valve and the hoses are still (were a couple of years ago) from Nissan. I have the part numbers in a file at home if you need them but zcardepot.com has them for about the same money. It's a real pain in the arse though but you really need to fix it or the floor pan will rot. That's a much bigger job. You can bypass the core until you're ready for the fix.

Great buy for $1000

I had one that leaked at the clutch fork pivot ball. Its hole is a through-hole to the oil-wetted area. Someone must have removed it and reinstalled it without sealant. Took me a while to figure out. Oil leaked down the fork, through the boot. There's really no way for oil to get on to the fork except from the pivot ball

Certainly all UK market, and - as far as I am aware - all 'Euro' market cars - DID have the splash pan.

In theory is should be the #teeth old pinion/#teeth new pinion. Since you're going to a 20 tooth pinion gear, it should register 95% of what the 19 tooth pinion gear did. That would mean it would register about 81 MPH if the 19 tooth gear was registering 85.

I have replaced the "blade" style OEM seals with a "Bulb" style weatherstrip like the door seals. The bulb has to be on top of the pinch weld rather than on the side like the door seals. I got mine from McMaster Carr. I can find the part number. 1120A122 for 1/16" edge, 7/16 bulb diameter https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3615 The OEM style seems to be about the least effective way to make a seal I can imagine. I think I kept a few of the OEM clips that hold the OEM weatherstrip on if you decide to get the reproduction of them.

@Kats that's good you have that information ! Maybe that seller from the link above thought it came stock with the 240Z. Still many mistakes 50 years on from now on how it was!

Ron, I'll have to look at the schematics again and see where else that wire runs to. It sounds like you are on the path though. As for the HellFire, as Steve said it's a drop in replacement for the stock analog ECU. Unplug the stock ECU, plug in the Hellfire, hook up the laptop and you can look at every sensor, configure every table, adjust for any engine modification. Plug and Spray! Len

I don't see where you bled the hydraulics after the swap. With no fork holding it the slave can extend and get some air in it. I'd rebleed and be sure..89.5 is pretty close to 92. 92 is not a an exact requirement. Don't go crazy. If your new plate is exactly the same as the old one and you're using the same collar/sleeve just with a new bearing, then it seems like you might have a different problem.

You can book a room at the convention hotel for $139/night +tax. Go to http://zcon.org and click on the Hotel link. I have my reservations.

Another Update and a request for some critique/feedback. I have been working on two fronts lately, the ever time-consuming GUI and my flow bench to test/calibrate the AFMs. First, here are some screenshots of the GUI and I would like some feedback from users on what tools/features they typically like to see while tuning. Realize of course that the system ships as a 100% bone stock L-Jet replacement with ZERO tuning needed. However, the HellFire is highly configurable. You will be able run pretty much any combination of stock and aftermarket sensors. Stock AFM, with aftermarket analog TPS, Aftermarket MAF, stock cold start valve, or do away with it and have the ECU accomplish cold start enrichment, ect. Plus, even your "stock" AFM might have drifted or someone adjusted the spring and you may want to adjust for that in the ECU AFM table. Therefore, I assume that most will want to tweak a little even if they are running stock. At the very least, the GUI provides an awesome debug tool if you car isn't running right. The first is just a quick pic showing three of the screens. The main sensor view (kinda hidden by the ECU pinout help screen) & the pulse width view in the bottom right. The ECU pinout screen is interactive. When you mouse over the pins, the description field updates to tell you what the pin does. I abstracted this system so any number of connectors/pinouts can be accommodated with external bitmaps and text files. I only have three connectors currently, the ECU, the AFM, & the injector. Users could of course add any they liked as well. The sensor screen just shows the real time status of all the engine sensors which allows for nice troubleshooting. Also clicking the "CAL" button brings up the sensor calibration screen. The coolant sensor is shown below. It's updated realtime with crosshairs with data from the ECU. One question I had was for this screen. The table uses ADC counts (0-4096) vs output. But it dawns on me that ADC counts aren't as intuitive as just voltage at the ECU pin. So perhaps I should change this to make it more user friendly is someone is actually measuring voltages. The VE table shown is for Speed Density calculations. The 3d portion can be spun around using the mouse of course. The four cells that are being interpolated update realtime as you run the RPM and load up/down. Right clicking lets you do math on the table, smooth, interpolate, set a group of cells, ect. This is where I would like feedback too from users who have tuned some VE tables. I have no idea what is handy or just fluff as far as features here. I did add a jog dial (black vertical jog bar just to the right of the table) It allows you to tweak the active cell a bit at a time as you hone in on the value you like without constantly re-typing numbers. That's probably enough for this one post. I'll continue to pop in screens and ask for feedback if people are interested. Len

If these numbers stack up, you are good to go. Like Zed Head said.......it is probably the wrong collar.......plenty of threads on this subject.

+1 on the front crossmember as recommended by @siteunseen. There is a box member running across the rear of the car that is also a good place for jack stands - providing you don't have any serious rust issues in the area. If you have to pull the engine and remove the crossmember, consider bolting in a 4X4 at the crossmember mount points as a substitute.

Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well. Now the easy stuff is left. Hopefully I will get that all done tomorrow.