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Ten years ago, some of my photo posts on this thread were scans taken from original Japanese magazines of the period. Quality could have been better. And now it can be. Morita san of MOTOR Magazine has kindly posted scans of some the original photos from their archives:

I will put aside a spare copy for you here. I made a small contribution to the content, so I've got some to give away to friends and family.

Morita san has long been working on a new MOTOR Magazine 'mook', finally released on 24th October, and weighing in at just under 1kg. You'll see lots of never-seen-before photos and the usual high production and editorial values of MOTOR Magazine. Text is mostly Japanese, but the photos are in English. Heartily recommended!

Well this build is testing my endurance . Got it up and running and noticed coolant coming out the alternator bracket bolt . Tore it back down to find a failed -new- gasket . Material was thin around that particular hole and I guess it wouldn’t hold. First time for that ? Good news is the motor sounded nasty! My neighbors got to hear open headers for a minute - ?

Fixed that for you....

Thanks for the pictures. Always interested in seeing first generation Silvia's, as I own one. Mr Kimura who did the exterior design/styling not solely looked at Italy for inspiration. Only the prototypes had handcrafted body panels, the production cars had stamped panels, but very much hand assembled on a jig.

If you liked that one, then I expect you'll really like this one. IIRC from the display placard, this is one of the early production KdFwagen's -- built before the start of WW2. Online write-ups indicate that the production facilities were up and running in the late 1930's, but only a handful of cars were made before the war broke out. At that point, the facilities (and the actual vehicle design) were re-purposed for military applications.

Mine has a mind of it's own...

The rust on the bottom of the A pillar is really what has me concerned. Also, with that hole below the quarter window letting water in, I imagine the inside has more issues than it would typically. I don't think this chassis is worth saving if you're going to pay someone else to do the work. However, it could be a good chassis to learn to work on, if you are inclined to do so, and if successful, you'll have a car that you can say you built yourself at the end of it all.

Just bought one on Ebay. They are out there. ?

I bought four "green" colours and tested them on a spare fibreglas panel first. That way I could see how they reacted to the cars curves and different lighting conditions. ... and then I let the wife pick! She choose wisely.

Keep on posting! We'll be following your build.

I paid $100 for my 280Z and thought it was a great deal that I could restore for about $10,000.... ... and then reality and rust kicked me in the junk.

I've always read on here it's the rust you can't see that's the bigger issue. That car has so much visible rust the unseen will be way worse.

Miguel does all of the body work and paint for the cars that I restore. He specializes in Z cars and his work is pretty amazing. https://www.facebook.com/CustomsByMiguel/

Totally. http://datsunzgarage.us/ Here is a good place to find some common tried and true modifications if that's what you're into. I just did the P79 head modification on my 1982 F54 engine block. I'm using stock fuel injection for now on my '80 ZX until I can spring for programmable EFI and cam, But with your carb setup, there are a lot more options. After an initial oil consumption scare after reassembly, I drive it almost every day.

I mean to be honest I got the car for 14 dollars so either way I go it's not terrible.

@Patcon. Yes, not sure I could help much. i know Miguel would easily be double that budget.. rust looks pretty severe. Would probably need a 'donor, car for sheet metal.

The book recommended earlier is an excellent place to start before you tear into it

I've been having a ruddy nightmare getting the wheel bearings right. Think I've sussed it, but needed to put a wheel on to check for play. far from ready for it. Good chance to also check my new finned alloy drums

Frankie for short! I figure my 260 is made up of parts from 240 and 280. Offer always stands. I would like to make it to Nashville Z since it is where I lived most of my life. Jim

YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE! Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---) I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works. It's OK. I'll keep trying.

$50,000 for a '78? I'm no estimator for body work but I would try and find a nicer car too. There's a nice 240 for $19,000 on here now. Turn key and go for a drive. My two cents.

I offered to pick up the fees and got no pushback from the seller at all about using PayPal, so the order's placed and the waiting begins.

I'll be the first to say it: I would SERIOUSLY reconsider restoring this car. I'm 1/2 way thru restoring a '72 240 myself, including replacing floor pans, rockers, dog legs, hatch area, spare tire area. & front fenders. I'm doing all the work myself and am very familiar with with you're up against. Based on your pics, your car is in much worse shape than mine was when I started. This is will be very labor intensive work and it will cost well over $8K to have someone do a decent job. My advice: Cut your losses. Find a decent, relatively rust-free project car for ~ $5K and restart from there. Sorry to be the one to tell you this. Good luck! Jughead

Do us all a big favour and loan it to Zup for 2020 ZCON!

Hi , I forgot to report this , I found this car for sale in June 2017 in Japan . 09/1970 on the door jam tag . This car has an early bonnet which looks to be origin to this car but , the edge of the bonnet doesn’t have a small tab which can be seen in the one from 69- 1970 early. So , this could be the second bonnet , no holes / no reinforcements , no tabs . I enjoyed discovering this car’s condition, many original parts still there . It was a fun to look at various type of “ date” markings are corresponding. The seat belt 8 /1970 , the tool’s contents paper “ 45 . 9. 10 “ September 10th 1970 ) , even the wiring harness showing 70. 9. (September 1970 ) and , I see the jack has corresponding date “ P H Y “ ( 1970 August 25th ) . Someone has to rescue this car , still sitting outside of the shop . Sorry I wrote to many things , just I wanted to give some information of the date to see when this betweenness was applied from and up to . Kats

What I have seen so far is,#1 is always seen on 1969 car.#2 is seen quite long term period,from1970 to 1972(not sure the month) I guess the transition was made from #1 to #2 in the early 1970.#2 to #3 was in the 1973? kats

Along the side rail of the hood; a punch-out on the blue hood and none on the green. Same condition both sides.

The green rusty nasty hood is from 27th. Pretty obvious why I bought another hood, huh? The blue hood is the used one I bought. The punch-outs for the front inner rail are pretty much the same.