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Mike
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grannyknot
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240260280
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Jem2749
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2019 in all areas
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Ok hear me out.... My horn pad was doing the same thing and it’s because the cracking plastic no longer holds snug on the wheel. Instead of a zip tie, I used a soldering iron. Just hold the horn pad together so that the cracks in the plastic close, then carefully draw the hot iron back and forth over the plastic melting it back together. The secret is to melt enough material for it to bond with out burning all the way through. After doing that my horn pad fits snug and had a satisfying “click” when pressed back on to the wheel.2 points
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2 pointsHmmmmm, I wonder where you found the inspiration for that idea?
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You may want to consider drilling a "stop crack" hole to stop it from getting longer. Dennis2 points -
Love it every time I look at parts that usually rust out. Here are some pics as I went around the car when I first could examine it well: Right rear wheel well at bottom corner of rocker: Inside bottom edge of passenger side rocker: Outside bottom corner of passenger fender (fenders are original to the car) - note rust pitting, and inside frame double panel at tension rod mount location: Passenger front inner wheel house area: Driver side wheelhouse and rocker lower corner: Inside driver side rear wheel house looking at bottom, front corner, and from center of car looking at inside of same rocker corner: I didn't take pictures of the floor as delivered, but here are some of them in their sand blasted state: What little rust there was is gone now
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1 pointyes. 240z has wiper stalk go out at 3oclock (covering key), 280z is at 2oclock not blocking key. Lots of differences for connector and wire routing inside the housing too.1 point
1 pointDeath by a thousand mods... Here’s a quick little mod to aid in cowl drainage and save the bulldog nose on the sill....1 point
1 pointI finally got my fully sequential ITBs to fire and run! She is a little rough. But pretty amazing base tune and help from Richard Boyk! I can’t wait to get a fully dialed tune running. Worst part is my fuel pump is super loud. FullSizeRender.mov1 point
1 pointI hadn't noticed that but I guess when you are auctioning a clean, desirable car there is really no need for a reserve, you know it is going to sell for a good price.1 point
1 pointYou can take off the back cover and check the the wipe pattern gears, clean all the old muck out and listen while you spin it, should be fairly quite. I took mine to a transmission/Diff shop and asked them to check it out.1 point
Thanks for the kind words... and the call yesterday!! As soon as I'm home from the office this evening I'm getting to work with the goal of moving under it's own power.1 point
1 pointthanks ZH already on it, will report back (video) as soon as everything arrives. Would like to do a pre and post new pump video as well with a proper mech gauge just to see if there is any difference. I am going to check the oil for any metal sparkles as well. I dont know if its possible to have a bad bearing that would cause a loss of oil pressure with no other symptoms (other than metal in the oil). The main thing is just how it happened seemingly in one day. That is the puzzler. I also did a quick test with an ill fitting gauge, my test engine got to over 60psi no problem, but the engine in the car was more like 50-55 max. this makes me feel its a real drop, but will confirm and report back.1 point
1 pointThe answer was simple (35 divided by 8 = 4.375) Ring - 35 and Pinion - 8 It will serve as the back-up to the R180 Giken 4:38. Thanks for your suggestions and inputs. I was hoping for something really rare but another 4:38 (not in a "K" case) is great. Been brain dead for the past few days after working on a new project.1 point
James is very capable and will have the car running sooner than later ? It is very impressive what he has already done to the car.1 point
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