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Head is finally in my garage and looks pretty good. $300 for all the work. Cleaned, replaced valve seat, and complete valve job. I just wish I had time to put this engine back together. Side notes. This is double confirmation that the OSK timing chain kit doesn’t have the V-notch on the sprocket. Was $68 on EBay. Nice kit IMHO. Rod bearings arrived too. I purchased tri-metal standard bearings made by Taiho $38. Tried to buy the Clevite 77 P- series but they are no longer available anywhere in STD sizes for Rods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Side seals are at the bottom of this image. The bottom receipt.

Here is the hood stripped inside and out to bare metal. The sand blaster was used on the inside frame parts. The high speed sander was used on the large, flat areas. There was some hammer and dolly work on some minor dents, and some stud pulls on the pointed nose at the front. 80 grit on the DA was used to get it ready for epoxy primer: These pics show the sandblasting the cowl panel. As mentioned by Grannynot, you have to be careful about sand blasting thin panels such as this one.

Here we are on 24th October 2009, exactly forty years to the day after Nissan's new S30-series 'Z' models debuted at the 1969 Tokyo Auto Show. The Japanese press had been invited to an exclusive preview of the new S30-series range at Nissan's Ginza HQ a week earlier, but at 9.55am on 24th October the doors to the 16th Tokyo Auto Show - held at the Tokyo International Trade Center in Harumi - were opened to the general public, with Prince Takamatsu of the Japanese royal family performing the opening ceremony. Over the next 14 days, over 1.5 million people would pass through the doors of the exhibition, viewing 722 vehicles and 256 exhibitors stands. This was the world public debut of the S30-series Z..... Happy Anniversary! Some images from the show:

Yes, for the fasteners and their respective hardware, I have tons of pics. I usually take the pics after I remove the part. I primarily focus on the bolt head number, shape and length so I can get the right part in the right spot. For the front portion of the horns, I will paint them the olive green color as you mentioned. For the back side and base, I just did a light wire wheel to remove any heavy rust and paint overspray (from previous paint work). The plater puts these in a chemical bath prior to plating which removes the remaining rust and most crud. It will not remove paint and does not harm rubber. The inside guts of the horn back turn out fine in the plating process. Typically, I do not sand blast parts that I will plate. I find it produces a bit duller finish because of the light texture. I use the wire wheel a lot. It is pretty much a work horse on my restorations. Also, the base mounting part of the horn should be silver zinc, however, I already sent that out. Fortunately, I have some spares in the silver here.

I was exaggerating with "wobble". It would have to be through the nose of the input shaft, which probably can't exert much force. The pilot bushing surface, the leverage point, is pretty small.

Got all of the small yellow zinc parts cleaned up and ready to send to the plater. This is about 30 pounds of parts...gotta love those USPS shipping boxes

It looks to me that 5/8" ID hose would be the size to try, I don't think that 1/2" would fit on the barb with out some sort of adapter. Even 5/8" will be a tough fit.

There’s also the option that the machinist used bronze inserts vs knurling the guides and they were/are too tight. Maybe material from wearing on the inserts ruined the seals ? Several possibilities

Some of the smaller panels after dent straightening and sand blasting: And other parts getting stripped. Lots of stripping!

They're for "NVH" reduction, I believe. I think that stands for Noise, Vibration, Harmonics (or Harshness), They stop the transmission from wobbling around on the back of the block. Not going to help your oil leak but might make for a quieter ride.

motor pushes out... also new rubber housings are available.

That looks great, go z racer, go!

@go z racer, go. Nice thanks for the pix.

Yes, definitely some serious rust. Nice to have that cut out and new metal welded in. Got the parts back from the Powder Coater. That was quick. Best deal in town....I send them dirty, rusty parts and they come back all nice and clean and powder coated.

Yes, I have some previous experience, mainly, what I learned came from restoring my other 240z back in the 90's. With that car, I got lots of experience with cutting out rust and welding in new metal! However, using a stud welder and pins is new to me. No, I put the end of the 2 X 4 section (section was about 12" inches long) on the inside floor, with the 3 and 1/2" side right up against the edge of the hump which runs over top of the rail. And then I hit the other end of the 2 X 4 with the 5 lb hammer. Doing that transfers the force directly onto floor where the weld flange from the frame rail attaches - where it is spot welded to the floor. It is double thick there - floor panel and frame flange. Hitting it repeatedly along the sides of the hump where needed is quite effective at removing the arch (that developed during the cars active driving life) from the front floor section.

The Nissan stand area at the '69 Tokyo show was quite extensive. Here are some images of other Nissan product on display:

I believe this photo was taken at the Nissan press writers test driving event - where various members of the Japanese automotive press actually got their first drives in the various new S30-series models - held on November 5th 1969, and over the following days.

I think the cars in these photos from Alan & or Kats posed for that brochure ? They are from ~ Oct. 18, 1969 when, at the same time, two silver Z's were tearing up the USA and Canadian highways. @kats @HS30-H

Curious in this advert, the one car has no paint protector on the bumper and no bumper rubber whatsoever? Vs the 432 has it? Also notice the holes for the bumperettes, but no bumperettes? Interesting to not see the paint bumper protector in so many restorations?

In a word, yes. No LHD S30-series Zs were officially marketed and sold with 'Fairlady' name badging, as far as I am aware. SP/SR roadsters are a whole other kettle of fish.... Back to the main topic: Here are some pics of what I believe was the first official S30-series Z related sales flyer / pamphlet to be freely distributed in Japan. I am told that these were handed out from the booth on Nissan's stand at the '69 Tokyo Auto Show. It unfolds to become a two-sided mini poster ( 44cm x 36cm ) with a quaint mix of photos and illustrations, and a fair bit of technical spec content. It's all part of that initial "Your Dreams Come True" Japanese sales campaign:

In the weeks following the show, the Japanese press began to publish their December 1969 issues - many of which would feature the new Z models in editorial coverage, and carry high-profile advertisements from Nissan's 'Your Dream Comes True' campaign for the domestic Z range:

And on the floor area of the Nissan stand, a 920 'Safari Gold' 'S30' variant 'Fairlady Z-L' model:

On an impressive banked display ( no doubt evoking Fuji Speedway ) with a banner reading '69 NIPPON GP WINNER NISSAN R382 AND NISSAN SPORTY CARS', were that very R382, the '69 East African Safari Rally winning 510 Bluebird, the '69 Japan GP Touring Car race winning PGC10 Skyline GT-R, and a blue 'HLS30' variant 'Datsun 240Z', wearing number plates that read "Fairlady Z Export Version":

Displayed on a rotating circular platform right outside Nissan's main booth, an orange PS30 'Fairlady Z432' attracted a lot of attention, and certainly had the wow factor: