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October 25 2006 - February 26 2025
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February 26 2025
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11/27/2019 - 11/27/2019
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2019 in all areas
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My personal favorite. Other than the correct pressure range, 35 gph flowrate, proven quiet operation, threaded fittings (no hose clamps), years of good service in several vehicles, a remarkable resemblence to the OEM pump, it also has an internal filter. https://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo/ Specifically the 40002E with these specs https://www.facet-purolator.com/tech-information/3 points
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Hi everyone, Decided to post my current build . I started this project back in July of 2017, my initial expectation was to build a nice somewhat daily driver and possibly do a few track days. This is my first attempt to restoring a vehicle, prior to this I've never attempted anything remotely as complex as this. As always what I thought would be a simple project ended up being a much bigger task. I started with a $200 flux core welder and ended up borrowing @grannyknot Miller welder, that alone made a massive difference and cannot thank him enough for all the help and guidance through out this build. Details of what came with the vehicle when purchased. -L28 fully rebuild (according to the seller) -5 speed transmission out of 86 300zx -R200 rear differential 3.54 ratio My current plan is to build a period looking 240z with a few mods here and there such as, z432 rear spoiler, xenon front air dam and recently purchased used rs watanabe's 15x7. I will be posting pictures as this build continues to evolve.2 points
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I might pull the pan and the valve cover and see how it looks. If it looks good I would probably run it. If you have access to a boroscope you could look into the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Triple Webers are a magnitude more complex than the SU's2 points
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Lots of little details make the Z432R interesting. Even the door jam switch for light has been removed. They kept the standard door card and didn't fit the pull handles. No cover for the handbrake lever either. Every little bit helps getting the weight down. Shame it was fitted with the heavy 432 engine, however they did build one with the lighter L24....albeit a factory team car.1 point
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Original 432-R gearstick (FS5C71-A 'box) was straight. The one on the auction car has been modified to bring it closer to hand in 1st, 3rd & 5th gears when you are sitting - quite reclined - in the Ikeda Bussan bucket seat, and with your Takata 4-point seatbelts on. So, owner preference modified. I've done the same on my 432-R replica. Shortened the stick a little at the same time.1 point
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The JDM rubber mats came standard on all S30-S models, so not just limited to early cars like North American HLS30s. The HLS30 front mats are also different as they have "DATSUN" molded into them.1 point
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Check the auto parts store for E85 rated fuel hose. You don't need the EFI hose for your low pressure carb system. 5/16 supply side, 3/16 return. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-5-16-inch-i-d-hnbr-rubber-hose/27335/4349947?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=4 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-ii-3-16-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-3-16-inch-hose/27098/4348885?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=14 You need to figure out what lengths you need.1 point
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Some photos I've amassed of what I believe are Genuine PS30-SBs but some photos may be of replica's. I'm not sure. https://goo.gl/photos/s1SzsY35jA47dTZc7 But I kept them for reference purposes.1 point
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Exactly dunno. they disappear at different angles. The dash is perfectly imperfect, just like my car!1 point
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I had completely forgotten the car was yellow and green, it's been quite while hasn't it, two and half yrs. Some of you may recognizes the slapped together rotisserie, this is it's forth appearance in these build threads.1 point
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No “extra” tax, just the assessed GST (under $25) from border services. More than fair! Thanks again for selling me your distressed and severely damaged dash that no one will ever believe is a blem... [emoji38]1 point
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A little Vintage goodness from @theguppies ! And a good shot of the horrible blemish that reduced the value of this dash. However will I live with such atrocious quality? Thanks to Vintage Dashes for this awesome product at an unbelievable price.1 point
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So be it... this site is not reference site, it is the spirit of 片山豊 that lives here: "Love Z cars. Love Z people. Love Z life." . If you want to set up a more accurate and orderly site, I will pay for the domain and web space and get you or a friend of yours set up to start rolling it out. It is a shame that your knowledge, experience, and reference materials are not shared to the masses.... the Z world would be a better place!1 point
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Sadly no... but I have one of those 432R / S30-S mirrors in my garage... nice to own a part of a 432R I'll hunt for 432R pictures and report back... Hoover switched on!1 point
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Good catch everyone ! This R has an original Dash which doesn’t have cut away for the blower vent for each side . You can see the hole is just covered ( un - cut ) by vinyl . Usually this vinyl had cut for the vent .This is the true dash for the 432-R . However , each car has each customized style . This car has center vent with control levers , I can’t tell from the picture whether this car has a heater box or not but , there might be a heater box . Attached picture is the good example of a plain Z432-R which has close configurations to the press car . No map light , no blower fan switch , no slide levers , no glove box lid , etc . Blue , you may have some pictures of the press car’s cockpit in your Hoover bag . Kats1 point
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When I removed the rear interior panels for the hatch seal replacement I also had to remove the dome light and trim piece. The dome light has never worked in the car so I wanted to figure out why. A few depressions on the lens told me the switch was not popping back up as it should. After carefully removing the trim piece and lens this was easily confirmed. SMK is still in business and they make of all things, keyboard letter switches. Makes sense but in all my research I could not find this switch or anything close to it by SMK. I would love to know who makes the switch for the NOS units Nissan is selling for $100. There was no way I was giving a c-note for a new dome light so I found these switches on Amazon, 5 of them for $8.68. As always, they arrived in a few days and after some side by side comparisons I decided to move forward. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCH1N3B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 First I riveted the contacts back to the housing as I had to drill out the spot/swag welds from the old switch. This would give me something to solder to. Looking back on it I wish I had just used some small machine screws and and nuts as I could wrapped the wire around the screw and filled it with solder. Oh well, next time! Then it was just a matter of soldering the wires from the switch to the riveted posts. I had thought about using some double sided tape on the bottom of the switch but I could tell it was not going anywhere, especially once the lens was on. I replaced the old bulb with an LED, again from Amazon and with a quick test I confirmed I had the polarity correct on the bulb and the switch worked. I cleaned up the lens and polished the trim. Upon testing with the lens on I determined I needed to bend the rivets out of the way a little. With the action feeling good I installed with and basked in the glory of my handy work. The light works when either door is opened and works via the switch. Job done!1 point
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With the new hatch seal in place I decided to tackle the other common cause for exhaust fumes entering the cabin, the tail light gaskets. I had done this before on my series-1 car so I knew what I was in for. I went with a set of Precision gaskets for $50 shipped from a DPAN member. If this was going to be a fully restore car at some point in the new future I would have gone with OEM Nissan seals but they are currently $120. The project was straight forward and as expected the Precision seals are not perfect as some of the grooves do not line up. I would say they are about a 90% fit. While I had the trim panels off I decided to scuff and paint them with some Rustoleum Flat Black. They appear to have had multiple layers of paint and after a lot of find sanding I was satisfied. Next I took some fine steel wool to the stainless trim and that really brightened them up. Finally they were prepped and masked for paint. I spent about 45 minutes laying down 5 thin layers of paint. The end result was not perfect but a 10x improvement over the splotch job that was on it. As I reassembled everything the bottom of the trim panels would not stay in their clips. This is due to the new seals so I improvised with some heater hose to push against them until the seals develop some memory. I plan to leave them in place for a few weeks and them remove them. I also ditched the Nismo license plate frame as it is not a vintage piece. The Texas Tech bumper stick has to stay for now as I am sure its removal will create another project. All in all I am happy with the result.1 point
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As I have been driving the car more in effort to tune the carbs, the exhaust smell was becoming too much so I decided to start with the hatch seal. The seal on the car was well past its prime. Before starting to remove the old seal I removed the rear interior panels and quickly discovered the highly probable cause for the occasional raw gas smell I would get, a broken plastic vent hose coupler. A quick search on Amazon got me a new brass piece to my door in a couple days and was quickly installed. With the old seal removed along with all the residue I could scrape off I took some measurements and ordered 25ft of seal number 1120A832 from McMaster Carr. Knowing I or someone else would paint the car in the future I wanted something that could easily be removed but still seal up in the mean time. While I waited for the seal to arrive I successfully re-glued the outer seal at the top of the hatch opening. I also wire brushed and sprayed some rust encapsulator on spot that were under the seal. Once the seal arrived I spent about an hour installing it as it requires strength and finesse. The seal seems to work very well as it has some real cushion but still allows the hatch to close with ease and is not pushing it up.1 point
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I talked to engineers, surgeons, librarians, and other professionals. Kid's hand-motor-skills are gone as well as drawing abilities. No writing and limited printing... hands are becoming useless.... can't hold a wrench or a screw.... lame arse generations ahead.1 point
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We have created a generation of kids that are addicted to social media, have no real skills and expect everything to be both easy and free. We will pay as a society for this. My kids don’t have phones but all their friends do. I don’t know who said this but I like it. “Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.” We are creating weak men in my opinion. When I was a kid both my Grandfather and Father could fix and build anything and worked their tails off to provide for their families. People today are generally helpless, lazy and at the same time arrogant. Sorry for the rant! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Hi , I am in San Francisco today . I have just watched the movie “ Ford vs Ferrari “ I really enjoyed it , fantastic cars and stories. I hope someone make a movie “ Datsun vs Ford “ at Safari rally, that is going to be exciting. My friend Mr. Shimoura got this Shelby Cobra 427 , CSX6000 series continuation model for his birthday, he turned 70 ! He let me drive it , it’s fast and so much fun ! Kats1 point
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I hope PS30-00166 finds a good home this time. Feel like it's getting flipped between owners. I'd love to own it and fix any issues it may have.1 point
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