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Bought a couple of toys to use on the restoration... and other car projects! Tig welder: Spot welder: usaweld.com is running a promo right now. The spot welder counted as qualifying products for discount ($300 off), and I got free shipping. The tig welder that I got is the 220 volt version and not water cooled. Should be a lot of fun to learn how to use it well. I've got an aluminum radiator for my other Z (highly modified) that needs some brackets welded onto it and some other welding jobs in line for that car as well. I'm also interested to see how well the spot welder does on the rocker panel repair for the restoration Z.

Many have used this to improve shift feel & performance with excellent results, especially when cold. Highly recommended ....

While I agree with Madkaw's statement about C types, (I have one going in my 510 shortly), they are not always as available as I'd like. They also need shifter location in the console adjustment, and shortened drive shafts, and engine mount tweaking, so not all will choose them. Given the reduced cost now of rebuilding a B type myself now vs getting someone else to do it, I will keep all the B's in my life alive until all the shift forks give out.

Get a good small box end on a nut then turn the driveshaft by sticking a long screwdriver through the u-joint yoke. The wrench will jam against the body and break the nut loose as you turn the driveshaft. There are fine details to that description but that's the basic method I used to use.

Now, that's how I remember Bob Sharp.

As with pretty much all KONI dampers, these are digressive valvings on the Z cars. This means that as they initially begin to move, they build damping forces at a pretty steep rate to give very low piston speed, subtle body motion control but the rate of climb continues at a decreasing or digressing rate at target piston speeds across their working piston speed range so that they do not get too firm and causing handling, tire grip, and ride comfort issues once the suspension and body get into significant motion. A progressive damping curve would normally be a bad thing as it would have very little damping force and control in subtle suspension motions but it would rapidly increase the rate of climb becoming overdamped and harsh over big motions and bumps. A progressive damping curve on a car would be an extreme rarity and I can't say that I have ever seen such in my nearly 25 years in the business. Some cars and specific suspension designs (typically not struts) prefer a more linear damping curve meaning that that the rate of climb is relatively even across the piston speed range and typically have pretty limited initial low speed damping forces. Some relatively linear damping examples are a number of BMW rear shocks that are mounted well behind the axle and trailing arm with an overdriving or more than 1:1 motion ratio. Progressive rates can very often be a very good thing for performance car springs but would be a bad thing for performance car damping. Progressive springs and digressive damper valvings can be very well matched, especially when adjustable.

Yes, keeps it from rusting....and looks cool in the bare metal color.

And, it looks like other models used the same parts. No surprise, but expands the possibilities. Also says that the part number has been superceded by 32805-Q0101. IF the E9001 is the right fork. Could be the E9000. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/oem-nissan-720_pickup-shift_fork.html

I don't know what this company does but they have the part numbers. 32805-E9001 https://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7bp23.htm

87mm bore The crank is from the L28 F54 block, so factory 79mm The L24 rods are 133mm long The pistons are designed around these mods and the P90a head and relieved for valve clearance. Edited my previous post for clarity.

Done. Didn't know you can do that! Just click and hold on the title text, and it turns into an edit field.

A lot of us are also interested whether this type of 'non-industrial' grade spot welder can deliver a decent result for joining a pair of light-gauge panels. Perhaps when you take delivery, you can take it for a test run with some 20 and 18-gauge scrap and post some pix of your results.

Older V12 Jag in Z

The 510 I recently picked up came with an SR20DET but it was in poor shape and needed a lot of work so I sold it and grabbed a KA24DE and started tearing it down today. It's grimy and rusty on the outside but well looked after internally, I'll know more when I start measuring. The seller finally came across with the windshield, he bought it 6 yrs ago and was told it was the last one in Canada. At least it doesn't have a blue tint at the top.

I'd have a machine shop test them for squareness and sag. I've read the exhaust go bad first. From Tom monroe's book...

A great story. I can relate to Frank. I bought my Z in September 1970, in St. Louis. I still have it, and it will be 50 years old next year. I was 22 then, so you know how old I am now. My z still runs, and drives, but needs lots of work. Reading your story brings back many memories of fun trips I had in my Z. My first born, was almost born in the car, barley made it to the hospital. Thanks

There's a good comment about the topic from LOLA Cars boss Eric Broadley regarding 1963 (Broadley/LOLA were just about completely wiped from the story by the screenwriters for this film, and the 'Prototype' Ford GT appears at the Shelby American workshop as air freight - presumably from thin air...) when Ford hired LOLA as a consultancy to produce the GT40, originally based on Broadley's LOLA GT design: "It wasn't a very comfortable time, but then working with big companies is rarely comfortable. It was a lesson in the importance of maintaining one's own independence and keeping the company self-contained. It was our fault really, we allowed too much interference from Ford. They were too deeply involved with everything and the consequence of that in a big company is that certain individuals will take advantage. To make a project like that work it is necessary to maintain the two sides, they must work closely together but they must maintain their separate identities, because the big company has come to the specialist to do a job for it. If they get themselves too involved they must screw it, otherwise there is no point going there in the first place."

I have picked the sports option exhaust manifold up at Suzuka circuit auction hall . Here is some comparison. With this exhaust , I have decided to get Mikuni 44 type 2 , as listed in a Z432-R sports option catalog . I will show you more detail about it here when it arrives . Kats

I can attest that on my 1978 5 speed transmission you have to have the correct shifter or 5th is a no go. I chased my tail trying to find out my issue. I was using my 4 speed shifter. There is a difference between the two. Completely solve the issue.

Purchase and successful assembly of this https://puralty.com/collections/mechanical-masterpieces/products/marble-coaster should be pre-requisite training for manual transmission rebuilding.

Decent quality parts blow up diagrams for the FS5W71B with the included source URL's where you can go to get detailed part numbers for every little itty bitty piece, as well as a merged in part number listing from EuroDat. trans gear and shift drawing_Land.pdf

Hey everyone, I have finally decided to join this forum. I'm currently restoring my 72 240z and will create a thread soon detailing my build. I bought my 240z late June in 2017 in South Carolina and started an extensive restoration. Like most people, I thought it was a much easier task and had no idea the amount of work and time needed. Having said that, I absolutely do not regret that decision and can't wait to finish it. I believe this forum will help me answer all my questions and concerns. I would like to give a big thank you to grannyknot as he has been a crucial figure helping me through out this build and I'm fortunate to live close to him ?