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2 coats of sealer, 4 base and 3 clear.

Wow, the things one discovers on this site. TFC is about a quarter mile from my house. Thanks

Well the original oil pan seal finally died. So I pulled the pan, zinc’d the pan bolts and powder coated the outside of the pan. The inside black material is pretty good condition. It’s come off a little at the edges. Now to get it on without too many scratches.

guys, i have made a few post, but wanted to share the whole car. after a lot of years, i finally bit the bullet and bought a z. let me know what you guys think. Shes a good 20 footer.

Now that is neat! I found out about TFC when I got a set of ztheraphy carbs. I was impressed by the zinc. So I emailed them and asked who the shop was. They are usually pretty fast as well. Most zinc shops are slow and smaller batches aren’t important.

Well, as you guys know I’ve been cleaning pistons all week. Like many of you, I have a case of OCD and I cannot let things not just okay. I know it’s not necessary to clean the underside of the pistons immaculately but I couldn’t leave them nasty looking. It would bother me to leave them like that. Like when Steve Jobs asked his engineers when looking at the iPhone prototype he asked what the screws were made of. When they told him normal steel he wasn’t happy and wanted them to be stainless steel. They said “no one will ever know and it would be more expensive”. He responded “ I don’t care...I will know” That’s the story I was told not sure if it factual but it makes my point. So I’ve been cleaning the inside of the pistons...if you think the top is hard it’s worse under due to tight crannies and grooves. I’ve experimented with a lot of products this week. Here’s my rating on their ability to remove carbon residue. Scale is 1-10. 10 is best (this isn’t Asia where #1 is best) WD-40 = 5/10 Acetone = 6/10 Mineral Spirits = 2/10 Sea foam 2/10 Carb Cleaner 8/10 Purple Power 9/10 I had a bottle of purple power on my shelf already. Said, what the heck let me try it. Sprayed it on the underside of the piston and walked away for 10 mins. Came back and there was a black puddle under the piston. This stuff is amazing. No scrubbing, no wire brush or scotch brite. Wipe clean with a shop towel and hit with a blast of carb cleaner and....boom spotless!!! Check it out below. 10 min soak and 5 min to wipe clean and hit with carb cleaner . Unbelievable!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Undiluted dish washing soap and a toothbrush will clean embossed areas and also clean knurled plastic knobs nicely. The bathroom sink is a great location for this.... Remember to not use your toothbrush!

I’m pulling mine out of my 280 relatively soon along with the matching R180 differential. Car has 138k miles on it. Don’t think my dad ever drove it over 60mph. It’s been in storage for about. 10 years. Shifted fine before it was in put in storage.I’m retrofitting it to a 83zx 5 speed. Speaking of that anyone out there that has pedals and a dust shield for a manual trans please let me know.

Dang fooled again! should have looked more closely at that single triangle. Thoughts of uber rare big money switches blinded me. PM me, we will chat switch sales.

I think I have used 4 shops over the years. Most are the same. I currently loving TFC in Oregon. Prep is key.

Hazard Switch Clarification; 70- 72 240z's in the USA had one of the following three hazard switches; 0. All wiring is identical with the exception of harness length ( "short harness" or "long harness"). 1. Series ONE 240z; 70- 1.71 (The knob on the left that says "FLASH") with a short harness. 2. '71 240z 2.71- 9.71 ( The same knob as above with a long harness). 3. '72 240z 10.71- 9.72 ( The knob with the 2 triangles and no writing and a long harness). Dates are approximate. That single triangle knob is an illusion, if I look closely I can see the indentation of another triangle which needs to be cleaned or painted. All switches will interchange and function in 70- 72 240z's, the differences are mainly cosmetic. Shameless plug; Hey Jim if you are selling, I am buying!

I went through the same thing with my sending unit. I soaked it in EvapoRust for a couple of days, and it looked and worked like new. Before, pretty crusty: After, working just fine: In the left of the after photos, you can see the homemade soaking "tank" I made. Just scraps of plywood nailed together with a trash bag liner.

Let me know what you are looking for. I just scored this one: (very early manifold with no drillings for heat shield and it is from mould #1)

Thank you Patcon and THANK YOU Phillip!

Glad to help!

Why bend the float arm to compensate for inaccurate readings. If you look closely at the float arm pivot point, you will see a small set screw. This set screw, when loosened, would allow you to change the sweep of the float arm in relation to the pickup contacts thus changing the tank fuel level readings.

Hi Blue , I am happy you use my pictures. Here are some for you , I want to explain again the difference , and interchangeability of the mechanism . Z432 ( triple carburetors) has only one cable for the choke system while L20/24 ( SU) have two cables . But you see the basement of the levers are made for both , just flip it over to accommodate Z432 or L20/24 . And some more , the earliest Z432 mechanism has a metal tube for the choke cable . Like SU type cable , Z432 has a lot of running parts change for this choke and throttle mechanism. Not only for the cable , levers were revised a several times . The earliest hand throttle lever has its pivot at the bottom of the basement while later type has the pivot in the middle.A Sliding nut guide which controls its tension is a unique for the earliest one. The earliest one has a longer slit on the top metal face plate so that the hand throttle lever can travel fully, longer . And amazingly, the small screw holes to secure the basement for the earliest one are used agin for the later hand throttle!! What a wonderful design of mechanism . Kats Sorry those pictures are not taken at one time , some of them are recently and some of them are old . I found the two pictures which showing Z432 and L20/24 in one shot made a mistake, the top metal face plates were put wrongly. The longer slit of the hand throttle should be put on the other . In this picture the L20/24 mechanism should have it as it is made as later type .

More great break down pictures, this time from AutoZone. What is unique is the text that describes every part. All of the Nissan parts catalog pages I've seen just show the reference numbers. https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Pick-ups-and-Pathfinder-1970-1988/MANUAL-TRANSMISSION/Transmission/_/P-0900c1528004f739 This page also gives you C type trans pictures and STEP by STEP instructions for break down and re-assembly.