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Confirmed by the gentleman who made WD1 - WD39

Re: vinyl sources. Try the local upholstery shop. My local shop was very helpful and could get anything. Of course it helped that I farmed out the seats to them... Love this thread, Mark Cheers, Mike

Damn! That bites, I know the feeling well, sometimes you just miss stuff. But you're right, we are all lucky enough to be able to play like this. Thanks for showing us warts and all, you don't learn much from perfection.

Bring a Trailer has been a real meat grinder when it come to snarky comments from the 240Z peanut gallery there. Best have a thick skin and and a Nomex fire suit if it gets posted on that venue. IMHO....sit on the car until the weather warms up, Christmas credit card bills have been paid and tax refunds are in a prospective buyer's pocket.

You might want to switch those filters around because at the moment the 15 mic filter is doing nothing, there is nothing in the gas flow for it to catch. Putting the 15 mic at the pump will still get 95% of any particles and give you better psi then the 60 mic cleans the rest before it enters the carbs. Everything I said above is wrong

Classic!

So it's not out yet? One way to make sure you use minimum heat is to put force on it while you do the heating. It will let go when you just hit the right amount of heat.

Seems that people are bashing the BAT site because they don't like some comments that they saw. Doesn't make sense. If the seller gets his asking price, with low fees, who gives a ____ about the comments?

@zeenubee Six years. Probably feels like nine though.

if anybody is interested I way only able to get 3.2 psi from this pump . but the car runs great and quiet now. I have the stock carter 60 micron filter before the pump and a inline baldwin 15 micron before the regulator. hope this help anybody looking for a quiet pump for the su carbs.

I agree. No sense hiding our failures. If everyone thinks we never make mistakes, who are we kidding! I’ve never learned anything doing it perfect the first time; mistakes make us better at what we do.... .... and I’m getting “better “ all the time...

A quick update and thanks to all who chimed in on this, and it can be put to bed. I've been driving the Z to work and around on the weekends alongside the Tesla's and Subaru's since last post. I have around 1,000 miles since last time I topped up the oil after replacing the rear main(again) and have seen no drop on the dipstick. I added some Lucas fuel octane booster to the tank(92 oct rating base) and have the base timing set to around 12 degrees. All fuel related issues seem to have been corrected(need to modify my vacuum advance). Now that I'm comfortable in that it's a daily drive worthy, rain capable Z with heat and defrost I'll prob keep it in the garage for most of the rest of the winter. Rust only gets worse.

Don’t mind sharing my mistakes . I’ve learned reading about others too. It would be easy to blame my cheapy Ebay Perfect Circle old stock rings that gapped bigger than stock, but that’s not the real reason. Can’t expect rings to seal on a sketchy bore. In the end, I’m glad to know why this stuff was happening and not blame it on cheap parts

It IS very much up to EVERY racer to try to observe everything that is going on and try to anticipate what might happen. This is not always possible as blind spots get in the way, lighting conditions may interfere, or following closely may block your vision. This makes racing challenging and is part of the excitement . Prudence can aide in your anticipation but too much results in one moving backwards in the field. Remember too, however that this was a vintage race which requires more prudence than SCCA, NASA or pro racing etc. To me this was a tough one to call. I am not pointing any fingers as I‘ve made many mistakes on track, but to point squarely at the Chevron driver who was avoiding a slew of target threats during a volatile situation might be a little judgmental.

So this welded cutter you talked about... You're not using a boring bar in a boring head? In your close-up pic, that's what it looks like. But surely you're not thinking of welding the bar INTO the boring head, are you? I was being sarcastic above, but now that you brought it up again, I'm wondering if you're serious, or I'm simply confused as to what your cutter consists of. So you got a mill-drill. We're not judging. I was going to ask before, but thought you had set-up worked out... Can you mount the bell housing trans side up so the hole you want to bore is closer to the head? Or is the bell then too large to get enough clamps on it to lock it to the table? If you can mount it that way, you'd have no problems with Z travel length. They call that "piloted" as in you're using a "piloted cutter". Not uncommon, and a good way to achieve higher accuracy, especially in flexible set-ups.

well I installed this nice pump today pretty heavy compared to my old pump . I thought I had a master pump but it must have been replace years ago with the airtex 8016. this pump is bone quiet can not even hear it standing next to the car with just the ignition on. I have to go to the back and really listen. carter told me this pump draws 2.3 amps so here are some photos, now also in the photos I see I need to clean up some surface rust that is tomorrows project . next while I am under there cleaning up the surface rust I need to wire for the inertia switch. the pump pressure is rated at 4-6 psi so maybe later I will put the fuel pressure gauge back in and check the fuel pressure . the airtex 8016 pump gave me 2.7psi at the regulator that is the highest it would do.I would like to set this pump a little higher maybe 3.50 psi.

Bumper test fit and I am surprised. It is almost perfect! Even after two previous quarter panel replacements. Same gap sizes all the way around. Thanks [mention=25317]EuroDat[/mention] for the bumper bracket kit!! And thanks [mention=11371]zKars[/mention] for the bumpers...!

Undressed...

I just want a fair price for my car. I’m ok with getting less if that means less effort and less hassle. But not stupid less. There was one guy at the Japanese Nostalgic Car Meet who told me that my asking price was more than fair. He then invited me to come over to his vacation home in the future to see his horses. Super, super friendly. A few days later, he made me a stupid lowball offer for the car with a photo of the garage spot where he’d keep the car. I am just tired of dealing with these kinds of people.

Well somehow I missed this bad spot at the bottom of my bore . Since this project has has spanned over so many years I cannot remember specifically what order I did or did not do things . I ran a cheap store hone in these cylinders many years ago and I obviously missed that this spot didn’t clean up. The hone marks hid the spot enough, and I didn’t look close enough. Rings aren’t going to seal against that wall. Amateur miss for sure , but live and learn. I moved on to the 3.2 , so maybe I could start another thread for now or just keep it here. The thread was more about the MN-47 , which will be going on the 3.2