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Hey, just give the guy a chance. He needed time to go bury all that money in his Mom's backyard.

This was the 'MUTSUWAN 300' race meeting of 2nd July 1972, a stock car race event held at the self-styled 'Mutsuwan International Speedway' near the town of Noheji in the northern Honshu prefecture of Aomori. Mutsuwan was a valiant attempt to set up a speedway style circuit in a region which was far from the established tracks, but it was in the middle of nowhere and the Oil Shock didn't help. Still, an amazing 92,000 spectators turned up to this particular meeting.

Or better yet download one from right here, https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

I like the non-Spinal Tap oil pressure gauge that only goes to "10"... perhaps Bo Derek would appreciate it.

My experiences with SUs is limited to Hitachi 4 screw, round tops and MGB SUs. Neither used unequal length float pivot arms. I've heard the theories (G forces affecting the fuel level in the float bowls) behind the "improvement" but in over twenty years of very spirited driving I never encountered a problem. If I couldn't source another short eared cap, I'd redrill the long one and use it. The RAF in WWII solved a similar problem with a simple device they named Miss Tilly's Orifice in honor? of the inventor.

Well hello everybody. i'd like to introduce myself. I'm Nils, coming from switzerland and about two year ago i started work on a S30Z i bought. I now have a few restored parts, a lot of repair-parts lying around but the chassis was in bad condition because of earlier bad repair attempts by previous owners and a few crash-damages. Check out the whole story here: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11769 then i had to decide if i would have a bodyshop to bring everything back to original condition or look out for a second car with a better base. Some weeks ago i got a notice from two friends telling me they saw a sad Z hanging around with no roof-window out in the rain. Long story short - it was near my job, i checked it out and brought it here this weekend and started work immediately: so here's were the story begin's - i'll keep you updated! Check out my other project (JDM EK9 TypeR and my Daily EJ9 which will get replacement in 2013) on my personal site on www.JDMjunkies.ch back to the Z: Jup, it has been a while, but today i bought a second 240Z for a really great price. it looks ugly but it was a real great deal i'll also get some more parts from this guy beloning to the Z soon. Mor information soon: 1) My friend Simon is loading the car and tying it safely 2) while at home my old Z chassis had to leave the garage for better workspace on the new one: 3) and here my new fairlady is safely at its new home in the garage: Even have some OEM seats and seatbelts and a complete engine with carbs and everything 4) Last but not least i had to wrap the "old" chassis so it wont get wet during winter: I'll explain more on my plans soon. all i'd like to say is that both are genuine swiss 1972 240z. The main plan is to strip the new chassis and build one car out of these two with each part choosen from which car the part was in better condition. but we'll see. will be fun to explore Lots of updates will come again soon - the project is back in full swing

10.5:1 is what it was designed for with a 39cc head

I'm contemplating bypass because one of the plastic inlets broke on the current tank and swapping to a metal would require some hammering in. Have not experienced vapor lock. The current set-up does have round top SU carbs and SS headers from ZStory. There is the stock heat shield between carbs and headers. I am being thorough in the thought process.

Have you downloaded the 280Z Factory Service Manual for your specific year? They're free and readily available on xenons30.com and nicoclub.com. Might fill in the gaps...

Is that your problem, vapor lock? I see you live farther South than me so I'll throw this at you. Make sure you have heat shields in place then stop the hot water from flowing through your carbs if they have that feature. My '72 did, now they run cool to the touch but I also have a ceramic coated header that reduces tons of heat over the cast iron OE exhaust manifold. Lots of info on this delete... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=A4sLXsLRJI_u_QbDvZCYCQ&q=removing+hot+water+through+the+carbs+classiczcars.com&oq=removing+hot+water+through+the+carbs+classiczcars.com&gs_l=psy-ab.12...6139.11401..16557...0.0..0.79.1293.19......0....1..gws-wiz.d3KLmkE4Hp4&ved=0ahUKEwiC376PuuDmAhUPd98KHcMeBJMQ4dUDCAs

He is convicted accused of serious crimes and the evidence is quite strong. This bail jump adds one more charge to the heap. Perhaps now he can request a trial in a neutral country if he was honorable.

Thank you @siteunseen I also came across Carl's summary link - http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm It seems this may be a tad better at preventing vapor lock as is has the vent to the outside? I compared the diagrams from your link to the one I am posting.

Here's the one I remember reading with lots of info and photos. It starts off with removal but then goes to keeping the evap tank and the hoses to use.

The blank recess in the early dash was indeed for an optional fog lamps switch. It has been discussed several times on classiczcars in the past. Kats in particular posted some good data on the fog lamps and dedicated switches themselves. Here's a factory RHD dash schematic from November 1969. The arrow is pointing to the switch recess and says 'Fog Lamps Switch (Optional):

Not wishing to defend him, there are two sides to every news item. You can see why (guilty or not) he would jump bail ... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-47113189 Not sure Lebonan would be my first choice though. [emoji848]

I left out some words 240260280. My brain said "they'll make up for their mistakes off the consumers backs" but my motor skills wrote something different. Thank you for understanding the way alcohol works.

Not yet, I got as far as what you see, then had to leave it. I have to do a proper job of determining the real play, then decide if the bearing inner/outer need to be connected. I’d rather they didn’t, as I don’t want to use drilling torque to overcome friction of spinning that outer bearing race in that tight bore. Even if I have to blow $20 bucks on a new fresh bearing to get minimal play. Adding some grease, ie pretending its a wheel bearing, would also take up some clearance.

Aweswome, thanks! Just pulled the air filter assemblies and tried starting the car. It was hesitant to start, but got there with what seems like a weak idle with a light whistle coming from the carb air inlet that sounds a lot like a vacuum leak. Going to check tomorrow to see if this goes away with some extra air out. Another thing, after a bit of running I saw some wispy white smoke coming from the manifold gasket area for cylinder 1, and I'm guessing it's just some residue burning off, but again I'll check tomorrow and update you guys.

I'm glad my Nissans are paid for. They'll make their mistakes right off their consumers backs.

Mine had the longer one on the front carb. I did some reading and used two rear carb lids on my 72. They are both short and much easier to set the floats level. I have extra carbs and parts so it was a no brainer. Let me ask my Sensei @Mark Maras to be sure. I could be wrong but I doubt it.

Look below the battery box for corroded hard fue lines. Mine had some small pin holes so I cut them out and ran rubbet fuel hose to the pump. The longer valve goes to the front carb. Think about the fuel level changing going uphill. The front gets low that's why they made them longer/deeper. That's an old pump from looking on my phone. Your a/c compressor is a Yorx and oh what a pain in the butt to remove the fuel pump. If your air doesn't work I'd throw that SOB in the trash when you have to remove it. They make more efficient smaller units now that use current freon. $1,000 though so I don't have air but a nice spacious engine compartment.

The bubbles could be from gases already in fuel. Like carbonation in soda. I wouldn't get too hung up on the bubbles. Here's an article about vapor bubbles in diesel fuel. Not gasoline but the principle is the same. http://www.davco.com/forms/troubleshooting/F1318.pdf

Yep, they are small barrell filters in the banjo bolts right before the float chambers. I personally do not use them. I have two filters before the carbs that do the job. Those small filters are hard to find new and actually they cause a little restriction of fuel flowing into the carb in my opinion and my opinion was told to me by many folks on here and at Z Therapy. Circled in blue in this picture.

Post up when they get back. It will be interesting to see the finished result @Diseazd Looks like it might be an hour or so from you

Yes, the front is longer going deeper in the chambers to account for the gas going towards the windshield when you accelerate. Note the different length "arms" that hold the pins for the floats. Front is longer for the longer valve. You just need new valves, not higher flow valves.

He’s probably in his early 30s. I’ve gotten old, I guess, if I’m calling him a kid.

I wanted to start a thread where people can discuss the latest value information on our beloved Z cars. I attended Barrett Jackson auto auction on Saturday and only saw one Datsun sale - a 1500 Roadster which sold for $22K. Link below. There were lots of old Toyota Land Cruisers which were selling for between $20K to $50K. Prices on the usual 50's and 60's Detroit Iron were all over the map. Most of the really nice cars clearly sold for less than their restoration costs, which makes car restoration a labor of love and not logic. But most of us knew that already! Impressions were that prices were down. Last year Ron Pratte sold his entire collection of premium classic cars at BJ. No one knows why. Since Ron is a savvy businessman, this "dump" leads many to believe that classic American car prices are heading down, since some say baby boomers are losing interest in cars as they age. And some say the next hot area may be Japanese cars since this is what many millennials drove when they were young and now that they are older & working they have disposable income for the fine Jap classics. In any case, post your thoughts and/or information in this thread! http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1965-DATSUN-1500-ROADSTER-189458