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https://www.healthline.com/health/erectile-dysfunction/zinc#zinc-deficiency

Some more work on the nacelles today. After I got them coated with truck bed liner on the inside, I prepped them for paint. The last picture shows the high gloss clear coat and you can even see the ceiling filter and burnt out fluorescent bar! Very happy.

Frenchie, I hope you don’t mind me commenting here - happy to delete if you object. Before buying Sean’s full Race / Sport system, I ran the MSA header with 2.5” back to a turbo muffler on both my L26 and it’s replacement hot L28. Due to a shotgun sounding misfire I managed to utterly blow the baffles and Sean very kindly and speedily (at his cost!!) sent me his Classic muffler to help me out of a hole and able to get to an event I really wanted to go to. The classic is a straight through (spot the Z I worked hard to get into the pic!! [emoji12]) I was absolutely jaws on the floor at how much power had previously been left on the table. She now rushed to 6.7k RPMs rather than topping out at 5.6k ish. I like the classic raspy sound of the turbo muffler however this one is deeper and more TVR / V8 burbley. But the system as it was still droned like hell between 2.2-3krpm and was exhausting on the motorway. I then bought Sean’s full race / sport on the same engine and set up. The quality is great. Here’s the headers side-by-side for comparison - a very sexy beast!!! The fit under the car is tight but a near tailored fit. Don’t have a decent photo to show except the one below. At first I was worried about how close to the gearbox it was but NEVER has there been a single clonk even with some serious thrashing on bumpy fast country roads. The power at the top end just opened up to another level - I’ve had to add a limit on my 123 ignition at 6.8k rpm as the engine now sprints into the mid to high 7k region and I don’t want to bust something as I’m not running forged pistons and rods. I rarely need to cross 6k - unless I want to really upset an N/A 911 or Impreza STi! ;) The sound is very nicely muted below 3.5ish maybe 3.8k rpm but anything over that is totally grin inducingly vocal! With the windows down and over 6krpm with a barrier or wall on the driver’s side, I dare say it’s a bit of a nascar howl! Absolutely ZERO resonance or drone on the motorway now or where it existed on the old system. Here’s my first drive after fitting (headphones on, sound up) ... Here’s a much longer one with some thrashing and some cruising while I was tuning carbs (yes that AFR was all over the place with the wrong needles). The window was slightly open so the iPhone microphone struggled a bit to capture the fullness of the bass in the sound track ... My buddy (same orange car as Sean’s pics) with an L26 has the exact same package but with a JDM muffler. Driving our cars back to back was a hoot and showed that on the smaller engine the JDM was louder at the top end than the classic muffler on mine with the bigger engine (he’s running a 275 degree cam I think versus my 270) - a bit raspier on his and bassier on mine. He has a beautifully progressive power band with this set up. I did, for personal reasons, want to see if I could make her a little quieter and Sean being a beautiful gentleman (no matter what they say [emoji12]) has kindly sent over the track muffler to test. Sadly I’ve been utterly buried for the last few months and not had a moment to do anything but store it or even to be able to see my car! It’s a straight through but with a much bigger box than the classic so it should be quieter but flow the same. Will report back once I get her on.

For #1 ... the driveshaft length with yours should be fine. For #2 ... in the spirit of "light restoration" examine the u joints for play carefully, replace if any is detected, not costly and easy to do yourself. If you put in greaseable joints, be sure to orient the joint so that when the half shaft rotates to give you access the the zerk fitting, it is accessible.

So zinc isn't your favorite hair product like Kentucky jelly?

See the boobs thread for a natural remedy. [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran 20W50 Valvoline in my original 210k mile engine. That engine has since been replaced, but it reduced oil consumption when it was still in the car by a noticeable amount. I live in a cool climate, and would just always let the car warm up a bit longer than I would now that I'm using 10W30. When I started tearing that engine down, I noticed some scoring on the crank bearings that would otherwise be making noise under operation if I were to have used lighter weight oil.

Okay, I am back! And it has been a productive last couple of days. Propane torch and the jack worked great to break it loose and I was able to drain the differential of oil. I have now dropped the differential, mustache bar, cross members, drive shafts and a few other miscellaneous parts and pieces for clean up and powder coat prep. Few questions: 1. Is the propeller shaft different from the 4 speed to the 5 speed on the 77/78 280z? Saw a note of this on the Haynes manual related to 240z and 260z, but wanted to verify it was the same for 280zs as I was under the impression that the 5 speed was only an over drive gear. 2. I am new to restoration, is there anything I should be looking for or reconditioning on these drive shafts while they are out? (rubber, seals, grease points) and is there anything I should be wary of damaging when cleaning them up? 3. Is there a way to cap steel brake lines at the hub? Want to refinish the hubs, but trying to minimize how much brake fluid I waste as I just replaced it a few months ago. 4. How much play is considered acceptable for the input shaft from the transmission from the engine? See video below. It looks like there is roughly 1-2 mils if movement. IMG_2258.MOV

I agree 20w-50 is on the thick side. I would run zinc if I could. Royal Purple is good oil too! I run Wix filters on most of my stuff.

I would unhook the lines from the rail and try to blow compressed air into the rail from the return line end. See if it's debris stopping up the end of the rail. The rail may be fuel of garbage or rust even

check the FSM or owner manual on viscosity, 20/50 is for warm climates. Zinc is prob a good idea I use Valvoline 20/50 VR-1 (hot climate) but I am sure there are lots of oils that would be fine.

Same here, that's wrong and causing higher pressure in your fuel delivery circuit. Can't think of a reason that was done but it took some effort to do so who knows? You should get another fuel rail in my opinion. Look in our classifieds, there was a few brand new replated ones for pretty cheap. @jfa.series1 has them if they're not sold yet. He's in Texas too and if I'm not mistaken you are located somewhere around there. Good luck. Cliff

Hey team wanted to wish everyone a happy new year and give some updates. so I took apart the head, And like expected there was a hole in the gasketAnd like expected there was a hole in the gasket Between cylinder three and four

No, it should be open. That being closed off will raise the effective pressure on the float valves

I am very curious about this problem. I had a very similar issue with a '73 as a teenager. I never could get it resolved. '73 had nasty carbs but the symptoms appear the same. As a kid back in '79, the car would run great and idle great until it got hot. Then every time I turned a corner or clutched it to slow down for a stop light, that car would die unless I would tap the gas pedal while clutching it. I remember getting the engine hot one day and I connected long fuel line to the supply and return on the fuel rail. Then I placed both hoses in a clear jar of gas. The car would not suck gas. Then eventually it would. I concluded it was the fuel pump so I replaced that. It had no effect. I got the '73 carbs overhauled by an "expert" at the Datsun dealer. No effect. The car really wasn't very old at the time. Rather than overhauling the carbs, I suggested they swap the carbs from a '72. They looked me like I had 3 heads.

I can't understand how that could be but anything is possible I guess. I would use a small gas can for the supply hose to the fuel pump then another smaller clear one for the return. 3/16" off the fuel rail at the front of the cylinder head. I can explain better with a picture later this morning when I get back home.

It is a 1972 Japanese domestic market fairlady z. Yes it has a rear window demister switch and the two parking light switches. Plus the 8 track radio

Not sure what HER annual salary is, but I don't think it was six figures based on conversations over the years and what she drives. She referred to the cut in pay as "a house payment". Dennis