Leaderboard

I had the custom driveshaft I had made for the S38/G280 trans modified to fit the S54/G420, needed to be a little shorter with a new joint, that's all mounted so on to the ECU, my favorite And my new Silvermine brake kits arrived, hopefully these will give me the braking I'm looking for. The front calipers are massive yet weigh nothing, very impressed with the kit so far, the parking brake calipers are very cool and the replacement cable is nicely made. All five boxes comes in at 97lbs so take a 1 lb off for cardboard boxes and packing, when I get all of the other Toyota and Maxima calipers/rotors off I'll weigh those too and post it here. The aluminum adapters I think I will powered coat before they go on otherwise they look like crap by next year.

Well not new, reconditioned but I'm okay with that. Both are off of ebay, the first is a power burnisher, 7amp, 6 speeds, very tough unit. Not a tool you see a lot of in NA but has lots of different grits available from wire wheels, 60 grit flapper drums, straight sand paper drums, Scotchbite type drums from very coarse right up to the finest polishing drums. I have started mounting mine in the vice and using it to work on small pieces, best of all mine was less than $100. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Professional+900+Watt+Burnisher+with+Abrasive+Sanding+Roller+&_sacat=0 The second tool is a KETT sheet metal nibbler, this type of tool is commonly available but not from KETT, they use to only sell to industry, I don't know if that has changed but I grabbed it when I saw it, think I paid $75, came with new blades. Nice smooth action, I think there are a few units left. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KETT-Model-K-200-Electric-Power-Metal-Shears-Nibblers/202784171469?hash=item2f36e0e5cd:g:VRwAAOSwj~RdhukD

another thing to keep in mind when you are checking that notch, make sure you have the timing chain tight side tight (the tight side is the distributer side). That is you must not reverse the crankshaft if you overshoot TDC, if you do you will have slack on the chain where you don't want it for reading the marks.

How about you clean it up so we can see what the actual condition is? If those brown spots are rust we need to know before making an offer.

So neat looking

I'm sure the zinc Amsoil uses is the same zinc that kills cats. I can't find it at the moment but Amsoil has a blurb about this very subject, if I remember right the zinc you get in aftermarket third party products is in the wrong formulation and just dilutes the balance of the additive package put in by the oil company whether it be Amsoil or Royal Purple or Castrol. It might be BS I don't know but when you have entire rows of shelves in the automotive section dedicated to "mechanic in a can" products I have to wonder if all this stuff did 1/10th of what it says it does then why wouldn't the oil companies use and put the other guys out of business. I trust the large oil companies that have engineers on staff to formulate the additives required to do the different kind of jobs that the oil is asked to do.

I recall the drone in my MSA "Turbo" 2.5" exhaust to be max ~ 2400 rpm. The straight pipe from the header to the bend at the rear axle would be ~ 2.1m. This would be ~ 60Hz from 6 sources at an average exhaust gas temp of 300C

thanks! Just some cleaning with brass brush and battery terminal wire and everything was solved.

Who made it? Sounds like you're using the mustache bar and crossmember mounts. Four points of contact. Never heard of anybody doing this. Kind of on your own, except for general expertise here. Mounting holes, generally, are only used for the bolts to pass through, friction and clamping force should hold the metal in place. The hole edges should not see any side forces, in a good design. Still need a picture. Where's your phone?

That's what she said!

That is a big caliper or you have really little hands! ?

Parts look beautiful! Only comment... Many people don't recommend poly/poly for the T/C rods. I've heard (read on the internet) that a combo of poly and rubber is better and that's what I run on my car.

I'll second the above. All of them I've messed with look like that and there's no check valve. Just an orifice. I suspect your orifice is plugged with crap.* *Don't you just hate that?

Exactly, I never walk down that isle anymore

I finally was able to get the magazine. Image quality is about the same as the digitized version on CD. It is interesting that HLS30-00006 has the non-day/night mirror:

The most common problem that I've seen is dirty/corroded battery connections. Clean them up and try again before buying anything.

AK260, Thank you for the input. I checked on eBay before posting and didn't see any but will continue to look. If I don't find any before this spring (the car is in the garage until the roads are salt free) I will try your fix with the TC rod poly bushing as I have several of those lying around. It should be a pretty easy fix as the washers on my car are solid rubber, not the serrated ones and all I have to do is get the thickness correct. John

This may help:

$800 Cdn for hinges? Not even new but your own set rebuilt? That takes a special kind of deep pocket...

I'm in the wrong line of work....