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Here you go. 2 of the cover, the second to last one is one of the wiper bushings for the FC rx7, last one if a printed shift knob for my 280. On the cover I still want to do a few more refinements and make a stamp to put in the writing on the front, but did not want to spend the resources if there was no interest from the community; which is why I am asking for the feedback. with the printer I can also put in the writing permanently as part of the print and it can’t ever be erased or fade away, but don’t know if the community would like it since it won’t look as original. Example, the last picture of a shift knob I made for my Z with the sunk lettering. Let me know. thanks.

Ah-ha, so you are actually just up the road from me. Unless they have changed over the years, Z Therapy will leave the smog fittings in place if requested to do so. That said, if going with a header you'll loose the air injection manifold as you stated and the air pump becomes just so much dead weight. I had Z Therapy remove all the balance tube fittings for a cleaner look, no regrets. I'll PM my contact info to you, I might be able to help a bit with getting the SU's tweaked. Jim

Drive faster. Enjoy the powder!

Yep. it's a double-edged sword as I've always said. Increase in value is good if you intend to sell, but more of an issue if you intend to enjoy and use it. It's not just rarity of parts, unwanted attention, but insurance premiums rise. It also makes the prospect of restoring incomplete examples much more daunting. I look at the prices for early 240z parts and cringe at times. Just makes me glad my early cars are mostly complete and original. Since sourcing and paying for the individual parts can blow a restoration budget out of whack beyond initial assessment, especially if your restoration takes 5 or more years, it's enough time for some items to double-treble or quadruple in price compared to the time of the vehicles purchase. Having said all that I'm glad these cars are starting to get the recognition they finally deserve, for too long they were disregarded and too many of them sacrificed for the wrong reasons. And it does help justify the money invested in the restoration process.

@Zaspen I could cut this out of the hatch If we agree on a price I will cut it out and clean it up for some better pictures before sending it

Thanks yeah, i already provide the headlight and wiper bushings for the FB community for the past 5 years or so. All the parts i currently make are for RX7's. I got a Z 2 years back and looking to make some parts for it as well.

Please spare us your Austrian Alps miasma, you're getting no pity from this end. Lucy is always available to help! As to the header heat question, I have the factory heat shield fitted between my header and the SU's. No heat issues with the carbs or hydraulics.

The PO of my car spent 7 years doing a ground up rust restoration but then driver her for only 800 miles on 2 years after just to take her to shows etc! [emoji15] The brakes were pretty seized, the engine was way out of tune and everything needed a good thrash to get back to health. Mix, ignition and timing are everything. It’s great your compression numbers are good. Sorting the other stuff above out is pretty simple. You’d be surprised the difference a new coil, dizzy cap and rotor, HT leads and plugs evenly gapped can make to your car’s running. Points correctly gapped also if that’s what you have in the dizzy. Sort out ignition and timing first (set timing at 32 degrees at 3k rpm. Then it should fall back to 17ish at idle (without the vacuum advance connected. The carbs are relatively simple to sort out so that the car runs better while you wait. This should help ... Get some brake disc cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Take off the domes and give the pistons, domes and the body of the carb a decent clean first. Take care to not mix up the front and rear domes and pistons; they wear together. Buy a decent air flow meter such as this ... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192596389772 Disconnect the choke cables form the carbs. Using the nut at the bottom of the carb, Wind the jets all the way up and as a rule of thumb wind them back down 2.5 turns. I use a digital calliper to ensure the jets are at the same height, each full turn is 1mm down .... Put the pistons domes and springs back on. Use SU official oil in the dampers ... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F143244885465 Completely undo the balance screws and use the idle adjustment screws to sort out an even airflow at idle. I find the easiest way is to undo them completely so the bitterly is shut and with your finger in the carb mouth feel for any movement as you wind the screw down. Stop 1/4 turn just after you feel the tiniest movement. Then start the engine and keep adjusting the idle screws each, watching the airflow meter until you get an idle without stall. Then wind down the balance screw until moving the throttle linkage makes both carbs move together. Then set the fast idle screw to get say 1200 / 1500 rpm and adjust the balance screw until both carbs are sucking equally. That should sort the air flow and roughly the mix so the car is running better. Ideally you would want to check the float bowls have the same fuel levels before adjusting the mix but that will take a little longer and is quite involved. You will likely need to check that with your Z Therapy carbs too as they can become unbalanced due to vibrations during transport. The above should give you 85- 90% well setup carbs for OK running. Now for some “apres ski” and sauna. Apparently swimwear is not allowed in mixed saunas in Austria!!!!! [emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji33][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15] I will have to be that frowned upon prudish Brit with a towel on! [emoji4]

Originals still available, GMBST1539. I paid $19 each for 4 delivered last year, kept 2 spare. Roo

Nice pic with the snow. Going to be 50+°F here in Texas. @jfa.series1 I am up in the Allen area so let me know where the club meets and I will try to make it. I have a few things to work out on the car before I feel safe driving it far from my house. I have to figure out the smog/air pump stuff as Ztherapy will remove the holes and since it will be a few months until I get the carbs I have to figure out how to tune the SUs. The MFA header does not come with the holes for the smog equipment anyway. Right now I have more airflow to one than the other SU and the car does not run as good as it should. This car has had 1K miles put on it over the last 10 years so it has been sitting quite a bit. I have already removed the old fuel as step one. I checked compression and it seems pretty good as well.

I wish there was a way to preserve the look of freshly yellow cadmium plated parts. But I wouldn't regret using your cars either. I noticed these on HS30 00150 too! I thought it meant the car had been repaired before. So this is good to see and know about as being "normal". The car has been in a nudge on the passenger side, but not enough to disturb the radiator support. The driver side is still as OEM as new.

I visited a classic car shop yesterday , there is a Dec 1969 PS30-00062 . I felt this car is a good original car , a lot of original parts . I immediately noticed the welding finishing touch of the radiator support upper L & R corner , this is what I call and love “ hand crafted “ which is rarely seen in our mass produced S30 . How many things can we list “ hand crafted “ treatment parts in our cars ? I would say the interior roof center trim piece for room lamp could be the one , my 03/1970 has two cut away for the defroster wires which would looked “ hand crafted “ cut away . I guess my blue trim was made in early days and not ready to be considered as a car which have a defroster glass . Nissan would just make them a little too many blue trims . My blue tail gate interior trim too , the pieces for the vent system is different from later vented one , those pieces can only be seen on an early trim in black . Blue and Tan could be interesting as parts to be used early parts into a bit later cars . How about yours ? Kats

Today Kats

As I sit in bed with insomnia in the Austrian Alps salivating about the dump of snow we’ll be riding tomorrow, I feel there is something very wrong with me. I’m sat here thinking about exhausts! Is this an affliction? Is this a disease? Is it normal!? Do I need to seek medical advice? Anyhoo one thought is that the Race/Sport header is materially larger than the MSA or stock manifold, filling that side of the engine bay up a bit more and putting out a fair bit of heat with it. So for those driving left hookers, the fit must be pretty tight with steering / braking components also being present there. How do you keep the heat away from your vital to safety components e.g. steering coupler and brake booster without hefty heat shielding !? Long though short, I would imagine ceramic coating with whatever header is going to pay huge dividends. Right then, back to salivating ...

Well I guess I’ve been doing this wrong then. The two times I’ve done I’ve turned it by the cam bolt since I can’t get a socket on the crank without removing the rad (aftermarket). So far I’ve had no issues doing this with timing or issues with the engine but good to know

They've not much interest/appeal in the UK apart from those with them who want to sell!

No. The first one is a generic water / oil trap. It's fine for air tools but probably not good enough for paint (some water oil gets through it). The second stage is the oil filter. The third one is a desiccant vapor filter. It's pretty dry here so it might be overkill, but it's also a pretty minor expense in the big picture. (I am a decent "painter" but a crappy "blender" so I need to minimize rework and do a series of one takes ?)

What I'm seeing is quite a lot of people not quite understanding the difference between the 432 and the 432-R. I think that will probably continue, just as it does in the classic Porsche world where Mr Average just won't have a deep enough interest to spot the difference between a 911S and a 911R at ten paces. I take your point about people tending to think that the rising tide raises all ships, but that's been happening across the rest of the S30 range with people wanting to believe that recent sale prices for early/'significant' 240Zs are pulling up prices of later 240Zs, 260Zs and 280Zs. They may even be right to some degree, but there are still a lot of those cars extant and available, which must suppress average values somewhat. That's not the case with extant 432s and - more so - the 432-Rs, most of which are known to enthusiasts in Japan individually (by chassis number no less), and there are not many hiding undiscovered any more. This will tend to keep prices high. I think it's fair to say that rising values of 432s and 432-Rs - along with other rare models like the 240ZG - have been of concern to long-term owners in Japan. People who bought their cars 20, 30 and 40 years ago are not necessarily rejoicing, and some may see high value as something of a burden due to unwanted attention (the wrong kind of attention...) and higher insurance implications with strictures on storage and use.

I have the same problem, found the problem to be in worn hinges ( pivot points ). I have send them away for rebuild to a guy in the states. Will post results in my topic when they are back on the car. Hope it works. If you have to push down on the hood you are allready confirming the problem to be in the hinges.

So simply put, set the initial to 17 degrees at 750 RPMs. Since I have 8.5 weights, add 17 for a total of 34 degrees on my dial back light. At 2,500 RPMs with the light set to 34 I should adjust the distributor until the big notch (TDC) on the pulley lines up with the pointer, 0 degrees. That would give me total advance of 34. Drive it and see how it performs? What should the vacuum pull on the front carb be at 2,500 RPM? I'll hook my vacuum gauge up and get some numbers and report back. Thanks guys

I found the Excel spreadsheet Walter Moore made. I have the D6K8-05 10 degrees at idle 17 weights 20 vacuum 47 total @2,500 rpms Thank you @Walter Moore D6K8-05 10 17 20 47 2500 27 M 1979