Leaderboard

Let’s have a break , before I am going to post about chassis number . How about my seats ? Looks good as re-upholstery seats. Later slim type used palm sheet in the seat back and bottom. Kats

Whether Series 1 - 2 or 3 is an original Nissan term is irrelevant, IMO. The fact is the terms Series 1, etc terms are a better way to reflect changes than the model years.

I used the wire wheel on the end fittings. 220 grit to clean and sand the tubing. There was some undercoating and overspray on the tubing also. I used the wire wheel on those portions.

Yes. As per the title you gave the thread: "Meanwhile, a Z432R sells for $805k in Japan" There's a big, big difference in content, rarity and value between a 432 and a 432-R, so I think it worth making it clear all the way through when writing about them, lest people get the wrong end of the stick. I've already seen it happening. Edited to add: There was no model variant-specific 432-R badging. It was badged the same as the 432 model.

When I purchased the car and went through it get it running, I cleaned the carb heat thermostat and got it working. Since then, I have completely forgotten about it. Incidentally, it is usually the rear carb that acts up. I will look into bypassing the carb heat and see if things are improved. Yesterday, I pulled the tach signal from my electric pump controller (this way, it still primes on key on, but does not run while engine is running) and relied on my mechanical pump. I drove the car 200 miles without the flooding issue. But, I was not struck in traffic. Outside temp was 80 degrees. I was reminded that the engine misses under heavy acceleration when running on mechanical pump only. When electric pump is on, no missing. So, it seems I need something in between.

I lifted the '1.6kVA' rating from your photo, which I took to be the unit your are using. There are two things in play with these welder ratings: When an electrical device relies on power bursts to do its job, the basic electrical power formula of 'P = V x A' is too simplistic and doesn't (directly) apply. That formula is most appropriately used for continuous conditions, such as calculating the power delivered by an electrical transmission line. And even in that case, there are correction factors that need to be used. The power rating for a welder only makes practical sense if it's measured and stated specific to a particular duty cycle (50% in this case). You`ll see a similar approach used for MIG welder ratings. Back in my days as a mechanical engineering undergrad, electrical engineering ratings and calculations always gave me a headache. They still do.

Series-One Z sells for Record Breaking $310,00 USD Eh... where is that extra 0 gone… @Mike ?

Specifically, a PS30-SB Nissan Fairlady Z432-R I've seen some people being confused between the 432 and 432-R. It's worth being vigilant about the distinction.

Did the final assembly this morning, went pretty smooth. Have to work on my technique to get the tail housing on and the shift forks aligned at the same time. Good trick here is to take the reverse lock out assembly out and look in there with a flashlight. It’s in line with the shift forks and the tip of the shifter rod, so you don’t have to guess much. The other part of this is to make sure you have the through/retaining pin that is just ahead of the shifter in place, and the detent/spring thingy with the 19mm hex cap by the shifter in place as well. This keeps the shifter “kept” within the correct confines of its movement while you get the shift fork finger in “just” the right spot. My fancy 62mm front counter bearing “schnicked” perfectly into the front cover. The C type front cover went over it without issue, needed 4mm of shim. I can happily select all 6 gears. There are no extra parts laying around. AND I tried the reverse switch function with my slimmed down shift rod. It works! Only comes on in reverse. Bought it a new switch as well. I stripped the cases and repainted with 2k epoxy primer (Eastwood stuff in a can) then VHT aluminum color caliper paint.

And uh... get you a fire extinguisher if you haven't already! I found a refillable, all metal on at Lowes for around $20. Fits perfect behind the passenger's seat.

2 Days ago my voltage regulator went out, producing an overvoltage and blowing all the lights that were on in my car except the headlights.Yesterday i started on the dash lights first and removed all the gauges and disassembled them, I took out all the green light filters and replaced all the bulbs and this was the end result. Much brighter gauges and A LOT easier to see now! EDIT: Ignore the oil gauge ( I have run a oil line into the car to a mechanical gauge to get a better reading as replacing the oil sending unit last year ended up saying no oil pressure on the stock gauge)

Seems crazy but it is an easy number to hit. Spending close to $200k for someone else to restore your car is not unimaginable. I could never do this car of mine if I had to pay someone else for the work. I’m no expert or craftsman and the finished product will reflect that. I’m okay with that. In the end, my car will hopefully still be worth close to what I’ve spent in parts and the better part of four years restoring.