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It took an enthusiast from half way round the world to let me know that his was less than 60 miles from me. This is HLS30-00869.

Welcome to the forum. In my opinion, the best tribute you can give your friend is to keep the car original and maintain it with the same level of care the automobile has become accustom to.

Completely refurbished, PM if interested.

My build buddy hit the PCV screen holder screws with an impact and said they came out easy-peasy. Thanks for the info guys. On another topic, this was my experience pulling that troublesome rear main bearing cap. I made this little puller adapter contraption from a scrap parts I had laying around. Riddled with extra holes from previous fixturing and holding uses. Anyway, couple holes and some threaded rod: Put it on the rear main cap and run the three threaded parts down into the holes in the cap. The two smaller threaded parts get threaded into the oil pan mounting holes while the larger part goes into the other threaded hole in the cap. Put a couple washers under the puller as jacking points and then run the nuts down against the puller to lift the cap out. It's not pretty (or symmetric), but it's what I had laying around. When you run the nuts down, it pulls the cap out a little. Keep stacking washers and repeating the process until you have the cap off: The FSM uses just the one larger threaded hole, but I found the bearing cap tends to cokk sideways as you pull it. I found I could keep the cap even and pull much straighter out if I used the oil pan mounting bolts as well as just the traditional puller hole.

Thought I would weigh in here. Here is my stock looking radio. It was converted to a FMR-2 Aurora. I have made this conversion on this radio and a 62 Corvette Wonder Bar. no one has discover any change yet. AmFm seek still work including the tuning light. However it also has a 40W 4 channel output. Plus an AUX input that plugs into my XR iPhone hidden in the center console. Blue is a option also if want to drive and visit, but not for me. See more info at Joesclassiccarradio.com Just another way to enjoy a classic driver. “Drive a Classic”

Hi, I am going to be inheriting a 280Z and it looks like the time is drawing close. In 1976 an older friend bought a brand new 280Z in British Racing Green. He and his wife then promptly went on vacation, hiring me to keep an eye on the place (by letting me stay there). As an 18 year old I couldn't help myself - when they left the car had 80 miles on it and when they came back it had over 700 miles on it. He didn't say much about it, but I know he was somewhat miffed at me. I did wash and detail it before they got home so maybe that made him feel batter. Anyway, long story short, he still has the car. I know he has maintained it at the dealer regularly and has all the little dings and scratches attended to every other Spring or so. Several years ago he told me that the car is in his will to be bequeathed to me because he knows I will value it as he does. He and his wife are childless by choice and I am the closest thing they have to a son. Recently he has taken quite ill and has not improved. I hope he recovers, but if not I stand ready to receive the car. The question will be, what do I do with it? Show it? Drive it? Hotrod it? I can virtually guarantee it's completely stock and original (paint and all), and garaged all these years, although high in mileage I'm sure. I might add selling it is out of the question. It has been a dear friend for over 40 years, and it has been that long since I have driven it. I am here to learn all I can about these cars before it ends up in my driveway. Landon

No, I picked it up for a friend in Europe. I am going to pull the engine and build a period correct race engine with this early engine for him. I wish it were mine!

Some starting point perspective

Just reading this. Great that you got the wedge bolt out. I had a hell of a time with this about a year or so ago. I ended up doing multiple heat cycles on the fork, followed by using a hammer to hit the side of a long socket extension that was resting on the threaded side of the bolt. I rested the socket side of the extension on the loosened nut and hit the part of the extension that was outside of the housing with a hammer. In other words, the extension was reaching into the housing from the front / big opening...parallel to the shift rod. Like you, my transmission didn't have the convenient hole in the housing like the zx transmissions do. I ended up replacing the seal and the o-ring. No shifter leaks now.

Truth! ???

There is no perfect. Those cars come out of factories and aren’t perfect in reality. Your car will be a reflection of you, your efforts, your sweat. That makes it special in my opinion. Keep it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark, Re: Flaws...When Navajo women weave their beautiful blankets they purposely put in a "flaw" to let any evil spirits out. Now you know that there will be NO evil spirits in your amazing build. Can't wait to see and hear this incredible project get "completed". Cheers, Mike

I found a good example, this August or September 1970 Fairlady Z (S30S , Z-std) has already patches for the foot rest , but this car is a S30S , the most plain , simple model so there is no foot rest . When you want it , you just make a hole to slot in the bolt . Kats

ah the sound of the ticking indeed! I just like the feel of the push buttons. I did comprise some, I put in a second speaker (in the unused location) and popped for a later model Hitachi that had stereo, I am not a barbarian after all.

Got a replacement on its way from Ebay $39. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really believe these cars are much harder to make perfect without substantial filler than many cars of a similar era. The metal is much thinner than American cars of the era. So on an heavy thick bodied muscle car you can get the metal close and then use a body file to remove some of the unevenness. This make the metal thinner in some spots but reduces the need for filler. Add to that, the fact that the original stampings were not perfect. Which means blocking an original door flat is going to require some filler since the original door was never blocked. It was stamped, primed and painted. Modern fillers work really well and if they are applied in layers they tolerate movement pretty well. You have done good prep work, so it should hold up for a long time. I suspect like on many of the panels on my car, there appears to be a lot of filler but in reality it is a very thin layer spread over a wide area. Keep up the good work! i wish I was making this kind of progress!

Thanks. Actually, hadn’t pulled the trigger yet on a new set. I’d be happy to accept a donation and add it to my beer deficit I owe you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got a spare set if you need one. I had zero, so I put out a request a little while ago that was generously answered by @240260280. Then shortly after his gift set arrived, I lucked into a second set in a box of misc Z parts off craigslist. So now I have two sets and would happily send a set your way with the next shipment headed your way. But if I know you, the new set is already on it's way to you.

Thanks guys. I'll hit them with a little heat and try an impact driver. I haven't really put a lot of grunt into them yet because I was worried about fighting thread lock. Keep you posted! And in the meantime... Here's some catch-up pics. This was my experience popping that troublesome front expansion plug. I made this little adapter contraption for my slide hammer: Carefully drilled (making sure I did not drill too deep) and tapped a hole into the expansion plug to accept the adapter: Thread on the slide hammer and with a couple taps, out pops the plug: Don't know if it would work on all attempts, but so far, I'm batting 1000 at two for two.

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I certainly did not coin the term - I’m not that OLD! The use of Series designations to distinguish one model from another of various Marques, when confusion existed because of terms like “Model Year” - has been around and in use among auto enthusiast since I can remember. The E-Type’s for example used Series I & 2 when both models were sold with the same Model Year designation back in the early 60’s. (Some say Flat Floors) So nothing new there. Series designations were applied to the Datsun 240Z’s by enthusiasts not to long after Nissan sold the same model as both 1970 & 1971 Model Year vehicles, long before the Internet. We know there is a large overlap in the Registrations and Titles of 1970 &1971 Model Year examples. The first, second, third and fourth Series of Chassis Serial Numbers for Datsun 240Z’s are all specifically identified by Nissan in their Technical Service Bulletins. There are four specific VIN number series used to identify them.(one VIN series for Left Hand Drive and another VIN series for Right Hand Drive). Nissan issued Technical Service Bullets listing the beginning VIN chassis serial number series (Vehicle Information + Chassis Serial Numbers) as well as what Nissan considered major improvements to Safety, Comfort and Convenience of each - all introduced at the same time on the subsequent series. For HLS30 models: The First Series of Chassis Serial Numbers Sold to the Public - VIN’s HLS30 00013 The Second Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - VIN’s HLS30 21001 The Third Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - VIN’s HLS30 46000 The Fourth Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - VIN HLS30-120001 For HS30 models The First Series of Chassis Serial Numbers Sold to the Public started with HS30 00003 (from Oct.69) The Second Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - HS30 00501(from Jan 71) The Third Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - HS30 01501 (from Sep. 71) The Fourth Series of Chassis Serial Numbers - HS30 14001 (from July 72) Nissan listed some 17 or 18 specific Safety, Comfort and Convenience Features introduced on the Second Series of HLS30 production for North America, starting with VIN HLS30 21001 . These were not changes to minor parts during the production run, nor changes to part numbers made throughout the calendar year. These were improvements you got for buying the New & Improved Model being released and not found on the earlier one. See: SERVICE BULLETIN, February 1971, Vol. 137 INTRODUCTION OF DATSUN 240Z SPORTS MODEL S30 SERIES” (1971 Late Models) Likewise the New Model Introduction - Technical Service Bulletins - issued by Nissan list the significant changes for the third and fourth Series of production. Several of these Nissan Technical Service Manuals are now available in digital form on line.